That is rather optimistic alas. Most double sockets are designed to carry a total continuous load of 20A. They will carry more for shorter durations. Better ones may take a full 26A for extended periods, but its not guaranteed.
A 13A plug fuse can carry as much as 20A continuously. So with a thermostatically controlled load (the cooker) and a very short term one (the kettle) there is a fair chance it will survive normal usage.
Have a look at a number of welders... designed to be fed from a dedicated supply, but frequently fitted with a plug and bridged fuse!
Well you have now had views from a number of professional electricians, and other qualified engineers.
You will note none of them claim clairvoyance, and acknowledge that at best the views are speculation based on insufficient hard information.
For the avoidance of doubt, this is not bodging, but simply expressing caution. We can't see into the box in the photo, and hence have no way of knowing what if any cord grip has been used.
Its *potentially* anything you like. However, with the limited information available from just the photograph, there does not appear to be any immediate danger to be particularly concerned about.
I am sorry if this view does not aid your agenda.
There would be no requirement for a cable gland in this application, and in fact that in itself would be a bodge since the surface box used is not well suited to fitting a gland.
The normal method for providing strain relief in this case would simply be to clip the cable to the wall *outside* of the box, preventing it being pulled in the first place. Since this is on tiles however, that is less easy. Hence other options for retaining in the box can be used.
Such as a knot in the cable inside the box ;-)
[... have to cut this or else the ns complains about too many lines...]
Yes I'm Drivel and not driven by hatred or envy.
I assume you are referring to a double adaptor. A proper twin double wall socket should take 13 amps through each socket continuously. Otherwise everyone's house would be catching fire.
Irrelevant. My point was it's fused at 13A or less so cannot be overloaded.
My front door is varnished. Council houses have painted doors.
No, council houses have UPVC doors.
and that should be its in both cases.
So tying a knot in the cable is an accepted way of safely securing the cable in such a socket box is it?
Is that in the Best Practice for Electricians - or what ever official guidelines are?
I hadn't realised such bodging was OK - forgive my ignorance - I think I will become an electrician.
"Most double sockets are designed to carry a total continuous load of 20A." is not the most difficult sentence in the world to understand is it?
No, I am referring to a proper double wall socket.
Diversity comes to the rescue. Its not actually that easy to get a full
26A of load onto a double socket for a significant duration when you think about it.
It would be nice if it were true. However there are rules for ring mains that are there specifically to prevent damage to the circuit and putting a 6 kW point load on them is prohibited.
The fuses will take about 20A for a very long time without disconnecting. The usual crowd will be along shortly to claim nobody does the sort of thing you do and say its your fault if the main circuit breaker doesn't disconnect before you damage the wiring.
Oh yes it is. It's explicitly banned in all the appliance standards, along with similar "makeshift methods".
It used to be, a long time ago (>40 years). It's still seen in low power ELV cords in some Far-Eastern made stuff, but even there would usually be regarded as poor construction.
Absolutely not, IMO, by extension of the ban on its use in appliances.
The flex in question looks quite light - 0.75 mm^2 H03 perhaps - whereas it ought to be 1.25 or 1.5 mm^2 H05 assuming it's supplying the extension outlets via a 13 A fused plug. It appears to be completely unrestrained and goes behind the cooker where there's a fair chance it could touch the hot back of the oven. The whole job seems to me to be quite unsuitable for the environment it's in, and potentially unsafe since the flex is vulnerable to physical damage and may have an inadequate current rating.
Now the IET wiring 'regulations' (BS 7671:2008 as amended) are non-statutory: non-compliance is not in itself unlawful. However if installed since 01/01/2005 unsafe domestic electrical work will infringe Part P of the Building Regulations 2000, which requires all fixed wiring to be safe from risk of electric shock and fire. In determining whether or not an electrical installation is safe, a court would undoubtedly have regard to the IET regulations, since they've been the accepted UK standard of good practice for many decades.
I'm not remotely convinced that is the cable that comes out of (or goes into) the socket.
I think that is the flex from the white plug.
Any possibility you can imagine a reason for that post?
But I must admit I wasn't thinking of it as possibly being an input from a plug somewhere else.
I was thinking in my post above that the suggestion was of an output to a plug.
I can see large gas knobs on the front.
I'd let her in to look at my pork sausage.
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