I've got 3 transponder-type blank keys for my vehicle.
Tried the local hardware store, tried Home Depot.... both said "Sure,
we'll duplicate a key onto those... but you have to pay us to program
the transponder.".... and that's beeeeg bucks.... like fifty dollars per
I have a non-transponder copy of the key that could be sacrificed if
needs be and I can handle the transponder myself.
Bottom Line: Unless I can find a compliant locksmith, it seems like I'm
down to duplicating the keys myself.
Has anybody tried this?
For doing it without a specialized device, it seems like the critical
part would be tracing the precise outline of the known-good key onto the
blank..... after that I would think it a matter of enough care and the
proper Dremel wheel or cutter.
Or might there be something at Harbor Freight to help with this? Seems
like a pretty simple device would do the trick - albeit slowly.
Googling returns lots of devices - some of them pretty cheap... but I
would be looking for one that somebody has actually used successfully.
If you have the blank, they can just cut the key but the chip will not
work. I have one I keep stuck in the rear luggage hatch going to the
trunk. I can get from the car to the trunk but it will not start the
car. If you can program the chip, you are good to go.
On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 23:27:13 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
YOu don't program the chip. You program the computer in the car to
accept the additional key - just like adding an alarm fob.
To start off, I'll explain a bit about what a PATS key is, what it
does, and why this might concern you.
PATS is an acronym that stands for Passive Anti-Theft System (Ford
also calls this SecuriLock). It is also called a transponder key. It
is a security feature found on most (if not all) new Ford products,
and what it does is disable your vehicle's starter unless your
specially programmed key is used to start the vehicle. There is a
computer chip inside of the key, and without that you will NOT be able
to start the vehicle -- even if you have a regular (non-PATS) key with
the correct cuts, it will not work.
for Ford keys (Later 1998-newer Ford, Lincoln, Mercury) If you want to
add a key....
**You must have two original keys to perform this procedure. If you
only have one key, you WILL have to take it to the dealer to get it
1. Insert an existing (working) key into the ignition cylinder.
2. Turn the ignition cylinder ON (RUN) and back to OFF. Ignition
should stay on for at least ONE SECOND.
3. Remove the existing key and, within TEN seconds, insert a second
working key and turn it to ON (RUN) and the back OFF. Ignition must be
in ON for at least ONE second, but no more than TEN seconds. Remove
4. Insert the new key before TWENTY seconds have elapsed and turn it
to ON (RUN). Leave it the ON position for at least ONE second and
turn back to OFF.
5. The security light will light up for THREE seconds to indicate that
the new key has been successfully programmed.
6. To program additional keys, repeat steps 1 through 5
As a precautionary measure for all of the above procedures, you should
wait at least one minute after you have performed this until you start
I don't think I will ever own a Ford, but nice to know that one could
get a blank key for less than $ 20 and cut it and then program the car
to take it. Friend of mine has one and he complained about the dealers
wanting almost $ 100 for the keys.
I have no answer to that one, except that my Amazon order summary says:
"3 of Transponder Key Blank Fits 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 Ford F150
F250 F350 With Do It Yourself Programming Instructions
Sold by: BartoleteKeys
But when I click on that description in the order summary, I do see what
looks like the screen you note:
"Transponder Key Blank Fits 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 Ford F150 F250
F350 With Do It Yourself Programming Instructions
by Bartolete Keys
5.0 out of 5 stars 1 customer review
Price: $13.99 & FREE Shipping"
All I can think of is:
- The price has gone up (or varies depending on the information
Amazon has currently harvested on the buyer)
- Somewhere in the web page, it says 3 keys instead of just
one as implied by the description.
Oops! A third possibility has arisen: User RCI.
Turns out that the order summary only lists the unit price.
Drilling down into Order Details shows that the order total is #37.45...
so, a little over twelve bucks per key... and not five.
Even at that it beats close to $ 100 the dealers rip you off for.
Reminds me of a 1972 Dodge I had ordered. When it came in the dealer
said he di dnot catch the requirements for an electronic ingition for
the engine I wanted. He had a book and it started out as $ 49.95. As
the wages around here at the time was about $ 3 per hour that is about a
day and a half of wages. He flipped the book and it showed another cost
that was less and another page or two with lesser cost. Final cost to
the dealer was just under $ 15,over a 3:1 markup.
I don't mind paying a fair price for what I want, but do hate to get
ripped off big time.
Find a real independent locksmith. Someone like our "dear departed"
Stormy. The KEY isn't programmed on my ford. The car is programmed to
the key As long as you have 2 functional keys you can add any 3rd or
4th key to the system by following a few simple steps - which is why
the time to get a third key is before you loose the first one ---
I have heard that elsewhere and, if true, it sucks canal water.
They want two keys to enable a third one.... so, really, the user needs
the two original keys kept safe at home... that leaves a need for at
least 2 more: one for daily use, and one just-in-case.
I'm going to take that to one of the Ford fora and see what they say.
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