Hardly - in reality it could be in effect an extension lead with a double socket on the end. Hardly any different from the pre-made 4 way trailing leads with a couple of knock-outs on the back for permanent wall fixing. The flex disappearing into the back could actually be feeding that double socket rather than taking power from it elsewhere.
Yes that would be fine (grammatically anyway), even if still erroneously jumping to conclusions.
Do I disagree it is not at all stupid? Or, roughly translated without the double negative, do I agree its all stupid? The answer would be no.
As I said in my first post, without far more detail on what is actually feeding what, and how its wired, and what the circuit protection arrangements are it could range from "fine if slightly messy" to "Substandard and in need of remedial work".
No idea without looking. The easy way would be to tie a knot in the flex. A better way would be to put a cable tie tightly round it. Alternatives would be a P clip under one of the fixing screws etc.
Its easily done. Usually better to try and glean enough information first though before claiming something is potentially unsafe.
Yup, I think you are right - that could well be a 4 or 6mm^2 T&E to feed the cooker.
Indeed, having looked closely at the full size version, I would also bet on the double socket in the surface box on the wall in effect being an extension lead - fed from that flex entering on the left bottom.
Nope, can't see either. It seems to have some embossed logo on the back of it, but I can't tell what.
Not sure you are actually helping here...
Part P (to which I assume you allude) makes no requirement that the work be done by qualified electrician. Work in kitchens becomes a "controlled activity", which can be done by anyone regardless of qualifications, professional status or indeed competence. If the person doing the work is a member of one of the appropriate trade bodies that allow them to self certify their work, then they may do so and that is the end of the story. If not, it would need to be done under approval of the local authority building control department by way of a building notice submitted in advance. How it is then tested and approved is up to the whim of the BCO in question.
You can't DIY and then have someone else "certify" your work, you can only "self certify" if you have done the work yourself. LABC may require that you have the work inspected / tested - but it would fall to the BC department to certify it based on the results of that testing/inspection.
The irony here is that part P actively encourages the use of extension leads in kitchens, since it complicates the process of doing it correctly, to the point of being financially non-viablein most cases.
They must have an isolation switch within 2m of the appliance. No requirement for a cooker socket as such.
The size of the cable would depend on a number of factors. 4mm^2 May well be appropriate in some circumstances.
It's immaterial, as if you look lower down the picture, through the triangle of the bike frame, you will see that cable re-appear and run accross to the end of a 4-way trailing socket, presumably powering some of the low power devices in the kitchen.
SteveW
You need eyes.
Why not try posting at Halloween next time?
And YOU managed to post a message without the word "pikey" in it.
I am impressed.
Come on we only ever get safety conscious as we age. The owner is under
30 renting the property has just done his shopping on the bike and for ease off loaded the shopping into the kitchen. The bike is also not bottom of the range and his shopping leans towards healthier. Likely to be a non smoker. So the plug maybe an issue but in total terms is probably healthier and safer than most of us.Jeees when I was under 30 I was still sticking 2 wires into plug sockets using a screwdricer in the earth to open the pins cause I couldnt be bothered wiring a plug....Oh how things (and me) have changed.
I still did it until I was around my late fifties - that was until the grand-kids came along. The pesky little perishers kept on pulling the cables out and stopping the chainsaw that the eldest one was using for his nefarious ends on my fence, hedge, garden shed etc - he even chased the cat with it once! Didn't see the bloody moggy for a week after. ROTFL (and yes, only kidding about the chainsaw).
Cash
Alex Heney wrote: [snip]
No, that's bollocks. If the cooker has a gas hob the oven which will probably be 2kW can be powered from a 13A socket.
Simon needs more cupboards.
Indeed. Wood should be VARNISHED, not painted.
A 13A plug has a 13A fuse.
They bloody should do, or you could plug two 3kW heaters into a 13A socket.
My cooker has a gas hob, and two electric ovens. It required more than a
13A socket.
When I was 40 something I ran a radio system half way up a mountain from a generator with the wires held into the bespoke power socket with match sticks for a day with water flowing under and around us because my marvellous colleague had forgotten to pack the correct adapter. Not sure it was totally safe, but I'm still here to tell the tale. I've changed as well, I don't trust any one with my packing anymore!................
>
The whole thing is a posed photo to show off the bicycle and the yuppy upper class brands of food and chocolate.(and probably to hide the condition of the stove.) They would be removed after the photo
And where do you buy half a jar of honey and an open box of teabags?
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