Dig out a strength of materials text, learn and understand the
I^3 = (bh^3)/12 + 1/2(Ad^2)
It's the basis of all beam design and application.
So are you saying that you didn't need to look it up??? : ) I trust
you, I'm just curious.
I was doing okay on Wikipedia, until I ran into the units MPa.
I spent the whole evening learning more about steel. %-)
As every Wrecker is surely aware, steel has lots of recipes and is comes
is sold in a variety of molecular patterns. I doubt you can get square
tube that is not annealed (A) in retail. Online, all I can do is "go
bigger". I'm up to 1/4" thick now, I just don't want it to
flex...lol I'm going to physically visit Lowes and actually hold some
in my hand, so I can get a better feeling for wall thicknesses.
If I was clever enough, I could probably back up a few steps and build a
wooden truss instead (and have fun doing it). I didn't know what a
"truss" was until John Loomis mentioned the term in an earlier post
yesterday. That is a great word for me to know for what I wish to
accomplish. Even if the tubing did flex, I truss could be use to firm
it up (as he suggested), which is reassuring, and reminds me of the
nature of all of our woodworking experiments.
I have no reason to rush this purchase. I tried to resolve it, but it
can wait. I think I'll take a break, and do some of my work for work!
Alzheimers may be in my future but doesn't seem to have arrived yet.
Anyway, that formula was beat into me more than 50 years ago by
my structural prof who would begin his homework assignments with
"Gentlemen, put on your coolie hats and have fun tonight".
You don't forget that experience.
Here's a link in case anybody doesn't know what a coolie hat is:
Yes, just need a blade guard. Was thinking "quilt-rack model"--2
"T"-shaped legs with a length of steel square tubing, or equivalent,
To that a reasonably simple blade cover fashioned from Lexan
Polycarbonate would be attached.
A disk/belt sander (why did I think of Mike Marlow?), would probably
shape it nicely.
On 12/19/2013 11:03 AM, email@example.com wrote:
Not sure I understand pinch the board into the blade.
But I feed with my right hand and hold the work down with the left. My
right hand is grabbing the right side of the board and pushing until the
end is on the table top, then I push directly from the rear. The left
hand keeps the work pushed down and against the fence.
I may or may not use a push device depending on the width of the rip.
On 12/19/2013 5:58 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I don't push on the side of the board once it has reached the blade,
that would actually pinch the blade if the wast was narrow.
By the same token you should not use a feather board past the front of
On 12/19/2013 4:22 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Actually the left side of the wood only pinches the blade if your fence
is not parallel to the blade, skewed away from the blade on the back
side of the blade. Or if you are incorrectly pushing the wood from the
left side after it has passed the front of the blade.
Huh? The fence on that SS is on the right side of the blade, no? The
issue isn't the alignment at all.
The issue I'm talking about is when you get to the end of the board,
which side of the blade are your finners (push stick) on? I say it
should be on the right side of the blade so the board is being held
against the blade, rather then the left side so you're holding the
board against the blade.
yes but looking at your guard, it is a front collection that redirects
it back to the rear, probably because it is much easier to lift the
guard if the hose is in the rear. I see a baffle that makes the air
travel to the front of the guard, around , up and then back to the hose.
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