2002 Unisaw

[Swingman]

Great story ... this country is full of folks like that, you just don't hear about them on the evening news. Sounds like a great start to Thanksgiving story. Count those blessings.

[krw]

Everyone likes it so much they pass it on to their friends!

I find the guard almost useless. If I'm doing nothing but ripping for a week, I might think about putting it on. I don't like not being able to see the blade clearly but the dust collector works better with it on. ;-) I use the knife whenever I'm making through cuts, though.

You'll use the inserts. You'll probably want to buy more, if you do a lot of dado cuts. Did I mention that Forrest makes a nice dado set? ;-)

I really like my JessEm miter gauge (JessEm makes great stuff). The Incra 1000HD is really nice, too, though not as solid.

Use it for another tool? I don't think you'd get enough for it to bother selling it.

[Bill]

I already bought a Freud dado set, with Rockler's 20% off coupon a few months ago--anticipating that I would one day own a saw. What I need is a suitable 230W adapter/plug-inlet for the wall. The one I already purchased doesn't fit the horizontally-slotted plug. That's the sort of problem you may run into with anticipatory purchases...

Amazon had the Incra 1000HD on sale for about $110 during last Christmas season. I'll let you know if I see it. If you doubt me, check camelcamelcamel.com (I haven't checked, I may be off by a few dollars).

Bill

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[woodchucker]

Congratulations Bill. Good luck with your new saw. Give it a thorough look over. Clean it up.. you can use 400 to 600 wet dry sandpaper, for the top, or a green scotch brite.. cut it round and use your random orbital sander... wax it using butcher wax and enjoy.

Build yourself a cross cut sled for 90degree cuts and look for the incra miter on sale for angled cuts.

And go make something.. build some jigs to learn how to use the tool before you tackle your first big project.

[Bill]

Thank you!

Yes, it needs a bit of cleaning up, and that will help me to familiarize myself with it. I should read the manual too, because I learned some things while I was scanning it. In particular that the blades should be locked before the saw is turned on. It makes sense, but I didn't know that already. I have some 400 and 600 wet or dry. Thank you for mentioning that (below).

Yes, I will!

[Larry W]

Ah for the good old days, when if you had need of a part for a Delta tool you would call them up, get a good old boy on the phone who would know in about 60 seconds of conversation exactly what you needed, and when you asked him the price and how much to ship, he's day, don't worry about it, we;ll send you 2 of them for free!

They don't make customer service like they used too... Or the saws either unfortunately.

[Lew Hodgett]

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Have used this device on a Unisaw and it not only functional, but easy to use.

Easy to install, easy to remove when you don't need it.

Lew

[Sonny]

scanning it. In particular that the blades should be locked before the saw is turned on.

And don't torque the lock knobs (height and angle) really tight. Firm tigh tening, but not super tight. You'll learn and get the feel for sufficient tightening. With my older '81 saw, the "tightening" of the heigth knob h as worn, a bit, probably from over tightening.

Three finger firm tightening, if this defines my experience, reasonably.

Sonny

[woodchucker]

Yes absolutely, the is just to prevent the arbor from creeping. A slight tightening does that. just snug it + a little more.

[Leon]

Agreed, My saw height wheel will spin during operation if the handle is near the top and on the left side of center. It is the weight of the handle that makes it come down. Not on the right side because that also raises the assembly. Any way I find tight enough so that the wheel does not turn on its own.

[Bill]

Thank you, Lew! I just added it to my "wish list".

Bill

[Bill]

Yes, I'm getting the hint with "set screws". Next time my bathroom sink faucet starts to leak, I'll probably be buying new faucets instead of a $1 rubber part. And that's at least the 2nd time, I've stripped a set screw in recent history. I even bought a torque-wrench to help me curb my neanderthalic-tendencies. And, in the one time I've used it so far (for a lawn-mower spark plug), it may already have paid for itself.

Can I apply lithium grease on the internal parts corresponding to the height/tilt wheels of the saw, or is there something more suitable for this purpose?

Bill

[krw]

I have one. That's what I was referring to as a "knife", which it really isn't. It's a great addition. However, I wasn't impressed by the installation. It's kinda kludgy.

[krw]

I replaced the cord on mine to fit the outlet I installed. I don't even remember that it came with a plug, though.

I don't doubt you. I've seen Incra stuff pretty deeply discounted. It's a great price (I think I paid just under $200, a few years ago). Be careful with it. At extreme angles, watch the trailing edge of the fence. It hangs out into the saw, unless you readjust (and recalibrate) it after changing the angle. DAMHIKT.

[krw]

LOL!

I prefer the ScotchBrite pads or steel wool. The Boeshield rust remover works really well if you have a little rust.

I've been using Boeshield but will probably switch to TopKote soon.

Watch the blade! Really, watch it. It'll jump out and find your fingers if you don't keep an eye on it.

[Leon]

I probably would have bought the JessEm to replace the Kreg that I had but JessEm no longer makes that tank of a miter gauge.

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[Leon]

FWIW I bought the Incra 1000HD about 18 months ago and love it. It is so rock solid an accurate that for quite a while I atually quit using my Dubby Miter Sleds. The Dubbys are great up to about 25" but for 1x8 material the Incra works well.

One other note I also bought the next size up telescoping fence. The measured capacity is now 49"

And add the a sacrificial fence for tear out free cross cuts.

[Leon]

The lock tends to be a bear to loosen when you tighten it too much. You will not make that mistake too often. ;~)

When in doubt tighten with your less dominant hand, it only needs to be snug. I'm not really sure you could over tighten it with out a pipe wrench, so you are not likely to break anything if every thing is working correctly.

IIRC the lock action is simply a cone shaped pointed end on the lock knob shaft that presses into a cone shaped funnel on the receiving end. Not like a nut and bolt. If you screw the lock knob out you will see what is going on.

[Sonny]

ght/tilt wheels of the saw, or is there something more suitable for this pu rpose?

Applying a lubricant to the large gears or teeth of the gears? There seems to be some difference of opinions about lubrcating those teeth/gears, simi lar to lubricating the threads on a wood vise screw.

Some oils or grease tend to collect sawdust, adding to any potential proble m for smooth operation. Clean, substance free gears/teeth or threads seems to work just fine, for me, though my saw's angle gear squeaks like hell, w hen cranking it. I suspect it's the shaft/support that squeaks, not the te eth/gears.

I don't lubricate my gears and sawdust collects on them, anyway, but it's n ot "stuck" on. It's a lot easier blowing the dust off, with the air hose, if the dust is not stuck on by a lubricant. In my case, sawdust collecting on the gears/teeth is much more pronounced on the saw that is not attached to the DC.

I would suggest you not lubricate the gears. If your experience suggests o therwise, then try lubricating and compare the results.

Sonny

[Leon]

Lube the gears but don't use grease. I use TopCote. I suspect any one of these would work well.