2002 Unisaw

LOL. "d'ye ken?", AKA Scots for: "Do you know?".

Heard the word daily from a good friend, a London Bobby, many years (50) ago, and it stuck.

From Scotland, I could understand him perfectly until we crossed the border at Gretna Green to visit his parents in Carluke, a small village outside of Glasgow, then it might as well have been Gaelic he was speaking to the locals, when we begged water to fill up the Morris Minor's radiator, which leaked like a sieve.

Sir Walter Scott, a good read, and user of the word, also ... ;)

I digress.

Reply to
Swingman
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I can see that some folks here have an FS. A Festool-Stop! ; )

Reply to
Bill

Not to mention costing a TON of green

Reply to
Unquestionably Confused

Well he is out of the line of kick back if that happened. I say stand out of direct line and where you feel most comfortable with maintaining control. I am typically on the left side of the blade.

Reply to
Leon

Actually it collects from a 4" port in the cabinet and the smaller one at the back of the guard. The smaller one "T's" off from the 4" port at the back of the saw.

Reply to
Leon

Not to belabor the point but I think this discussion is worth having...

If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip? On the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against the blade.

Reply to
krw

On Thursday, December 19, 2013 11:03:27 AM UTC-6, k Not to belabor the point but I think this discussion is worth having... If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip? On the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against the blade.

I would think the side one stands on is partially (high percentage) determi ned by whether the person is right handed or left handed and which side/pos ition is comfortable to the person. There is no correct or incorrect side, as per the saw or fence, itself.

Belaboring dust collection: My suggestion to Bill would be to not bother w ith dust collection above the table top, but do get a blade guard. If you were doing production work, there would be a good reason to have the dust c ollected above the blade. For hobby work, invest in a dust brush, broom & dust pan.... and wear goggles or a face shield, if the dust flies in your f ace. Your saw is mobile, so I'd suppose you may be using the saw near the garage door, or at least out in the open, convenient to clean up scattered dust from the top. If need be, add a dust port to the guard, later. For th e time being, get the saw in safe working order and start doing some woodwo rk. Spend the proposed dust collection money on lumber, for now.

Screw that dust port. Let's cut some boards.

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

Yes, I agree with your spirit. The morning I am thinking of a structure based on a "quilt rack" model--upside down "T" ends, as legs, with a mast of of 3/4" steel square tubing. To that I can attach a Loxan polycarbonate box (blade cover), with hinged front, sides and back--like the box in this video:

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As you suggest, I can always improve upon it.

A dust brush came with the saw, and I already have the broom, dust pan and face shield! : )

Reply to
Bill

Not sure I understand pinch the board into the blade.

But I feed with my right hand and hold the work down with the left. My right hand is grabbing the right side of the board and pushing until the end is on the table top, then I push directly from the rear. The left hand keeps the work pushed down and against the fence. I may or may not use a push device depending on the width of the rip.

Reply to
Leon

I think his bigger problem right now is temperature. Hey, Bill, don't put your tongue on the table! ...and don't shoot your eye out. ;-)

Reply to
krw

Bill here is what my woodworking has evolved down to.

I used to over think the possibilities and the what if's.

With experience I have learned to gravitated towards not over thinking and simply building something. You will learn what has more importance to you as you become more experienced and can adjust methods and equipment accordingly. The important thing is to actually create something and don't worry too much about the dust. Chances are if you try to prevent sawdust you might spend way too much time doing so and maybe not be needing to do so. Assess your needs after you make your mess. ;!)

Reply to
Leon

You're pushing the same direction; against the fence. The difference is that the left side of the board is pinching the blade, too.

Reply to
krw

Actually the left side of the wood only pinches the blade if your fence is not parallel to the blade, skewed away from the blade on the back side of the blade. Or if you are incorrectly pushing the wood from the left side after it has passed the front of the blade.

Reply to
Leon

The "mess" is not a concern at all. It just makes sense to use a blade cover. Like krw mentioned, my "O-Rings" would crack up here! I spent several hours yesterday thinking about blade covers. Some "engineering-like" thinking too. Folks act like I'm sitting on my hands. Evidently, I need to learn to work Lexan Polycarbonate! It's sort of like wood, except you can see through it!

Bill

Reply to
Bill

Huh? The fence on that SS is on the right side of the blade, no? The issue isn't the alignment at all.

The issue I'm talking about is when you get to the end of the board, which side of the blade are your finners (push stick) on? I say it should be on the right side of the blade so the board is being held against the blade, rather then the left side so you're holding the board against the blade.

Reply to
krw

But you're on the wrong side of the board to push the board against the fence.

Reply to
krw

You're on the left side of the board, so the left side of the blade. You're holding onto the left side, so when the board gets to the end, you're pushing the kerf closed.

Reply to
krw

I agree, the dust port should be an afterthought. I am not big on the guard either. Splitter yes, riving knife better.

If your allergies do bother you you can add the dust collection later.

Reply to
woodchucker

Yes, just need a blade guard. Was thinking "quilt-rack model"--2 (upside down) "T"-shaped legs with a length of steel square tubing, or equivalent, between them. To that a reasonably simple blade cover fashioned from Lexan Polycarbonate would be attached. A disk/belt sander (why did I think of Mike Marlow?), would probably shape it nicely.

Bill

Reply to
Bill

I don't push on the side of the board once it has reached the blade, that would actually pinch the blade if the wast was narrow.

By the same token you should not use a feather board past the front of the board.

Reply to
Leon

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