I'd like to get a cabinet saw, preferably the 3HP Delta unisaw. Problem
is it has to go in a basement. Does it breakdown? I've currently got a
Powermatic Artisan contractors saw. It came with the base unassembled
and the motor off. The top assembly (i.e. top/arbor/uppercabinet) was
managable to get it down there. 30" door.
I bought a 3HP Unisaw last winter and it came pretty much assembled in the
crate. The motor was mounted and the top attached to the cabinet. The
fence rails and extension tables weren't installed, though.
I had to align the table to the blade pretty significantly anyway, but
having to take the table off the cabinet wouldn't be something I'd WANT to
do, but it probably isn't that hard to do if need be. Just 4 bolts, IIRC.
If you do that, I'm sure you could get it in your basement. Haven't a Bilco
door or something like that would help, too.
i'm in the same boat.
how heavy is the table? i gather that the table is the heaviest part of
the saw... what does it weigh? could a couple of strong guys safely get
it down stairs?
Mike in Mystic wrote:
With my Jet we took the assembled cabinet with the motor (minus the rails,
extension table, knobs) down as one unit with two guy and a refrigerator dolly.
It was a piece of cake.
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
excellent. the only issue with my basement is the nasty bend at the top
of the stairs, but otherwise, sounds manageable.
you may be responsible for my spending $1800 or so on a general cabinet
saw - thanks a lot!
Don't worry. removed the motor from My JET JTAS before going up a flight. At
that weight it was a not a big deal for two guys WITHOUT a fidge dolly. I'm
guessing that it was about 160 lbs.
The motor was a bit of a pain to reinstall but no less hastle than finding a
I just went through this, and it was surprisingly easy.
The Unisaw came with the motor installed and the top attached, but the
cast iron wings detached. With the help of a friend, I took the
cast-iron top off (just 4 large allen-head bolts). We were then able to
get it onto a handtruck and get it up about 8 steps to the back deck,
then down a whole flight of steps to the basement.
Taking the top off not only reduces the weight by about 50-75 lbs, but
also reduces the width and depth of the unit, which was important for
me, trying to maneuver it through narrow doorways and tight turns.
The biggest bitch of taking the top off is that you then have to
completely re-align it. Putting it back on is easy, but getting it
aligned is a bit of a job. I don't currently have mine aligned very
well. I may break down and get one of those fancy (and overpriced)
alignment plate/dial indicator kits.
Between getting the wings on, and the fence assembled, and the extension
table, and the mobile base, and the 230V circuit wired, and the dust
collection hooked up, etc, etc, you've got a good weekends worth of work
ahead of you before you can use the thing.
PS -- I got my first injury before I even had the electrical done. One
of the miter slots was a little tight, so I absently-mindedly ran my
finger down it, thinking I would clean out whatever gunk was in there.
Wrong! What I did was discovered just how sharp the machined edge of
the slot is, and gave myself a nice slice on the tip of my finger!
The scar on my left hand from a table saw kickback accident six months ago
is still clearly visible. I was fortunate -- I can still use all 10 fingers
to butcher the few measures of Beethoven piano sonatas I've learned. I
could easily have lost a finger or two or more in that accident.
Since that accident I have bought several measuring tools to help ENSURE my
blade is parallel to the miter slots, and the fence has the specified leed
from the miter slots. I consider it a good investment. I like 10-finger
typing, piano playing, and guitar strumming.
... IMHO ... <g>
Cooperation mode. I'm in the Bowie, MD, USA area and have a magnetic base,
dial, feeler gage and digital caliper. If someone near me has, or is
willing to get, one of those "Guaranteed Durn Accurate" alignment plates,
let's work out a deal to share tools to ensure our table saws are aligned
(A late great uncle twice made the fingers on his left hand the same length
with a radial arm saw. He recommended other people NOT do the same. I miss
his sense of humor -- especially about his own mistakes.)
I bought a 3hp Unisaw last winter and was able to get it down the stairs
into my basement. I removed the top, 4 bolts, and brought it down one step
at a time with some help from my brother. Bringing the top, wings, mobile
base, table board and 50" fence down was the easy part. The only trick is
that you need a dial indicator to re-align the top again to the blade. I
hate the thought of someday selling my home and having to carry it back up
those stairs along with the 6" jet closed base jointer, 10" Delta radial arm
saw, 14" Delta closed base bandsaw and a router I table I built down there
from Norm's plans. If I ever move it is going to be into a home with a
workshop at ground level.
Not really, the woodshop is enclosed, not part of the central heating/cooloing
system. Admittedly I want to go from the contractors saw to cabinet saw for
dust control, but it's more of keeping the worksop clean.
My Unisaw came without the wings attached. The saw with the top attached
will go through a door.
I hired a piano moving company to carry my saw down the stairs to the
basement in one piece. It did cost me about $150.
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