Yes with one exception, the dust collection to the rear of the blade is useless. Start using your saw, and you will see 20% of the dust heads toward you, and the rest to the cabinet. I never have any dust thrown toward the outfeed area.
Keep that positive attitiude! I need to read the stuff the was uploaded for me today to build my confidence back up! I felt confident for a while, then I slipped. Time to sleep on it.
Cheers, Bill
Bill wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news6.newsguy.com:
Dust hose attaches in the wrong place. To do any good at all, the dust hose needs to attach at the *front* of the blade guard, not the rear.
That makes sense now. How could they have got that wrong (just rhetorical question)? Thanks Doug.
Bill
Sounds like the overhead guard on my 1948 Delta - but alas, no dust collection. It does have a dust chute coming out the back but it's square :-). Take a look at:
Now, I really appreciate the engineering that went into that! : ) Thanks!
Bill
Jeff, I think your idea of using PVC for a dust collecting support arm has a lot of merit.
One could pick up a few ideas from the support arm of this unit:
I can imagine getting a support structure in order using a half-a-roll of duck tape? But maybe that is cheating. ; )
Bill
Larry, Thanks for proving I wasn't completely-delusional. After posting about a "C-clamp" in the first place, I was concerned folks wouldn't have a clue about what I was talking about (and I could not have blamed them!)
Bill
Bill wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news7.newsguy.com:
Some merit, anyway. I tried that about a year ago; even 2" PVC is disappointingly flexible over a span of 4+ feet, and requires overhead support.
:-(
That's what I modeled mine after (except I put the dust port in front where it belongs). I used PVC mostly for proof-of-concept, and will probably re-do it some day using EMT or RMC.
Well, that is useful to know. I'm becoming sorry I didn't keep the base from an old halogen lamp. I've got a similar one right next to me, and it's base seems to be 20 pounds at least. Attaching a 3-foot length of PVC to that, I might have a structure for a blade guard in short order. If anyone is worried about safety, please don't, it's too early for that. I'm just thinking out loud (sort-of).
I have the original equipment blade guard with splitter. But I upgraded the splitter to a riving knife (and that's how I got to this point).
Bill
Well It may not be wrong, SawStop claims extreme efficiency with their guard and the hose is at the rear. It all depends on the turbulence and flow inside the guard.
I have the SawStop but don't use the guard at all, If I was worried about the little bit that comes out on top of the table I would probably use the guard but IMHO it is not enough to worry about since you are not going to get all of it anyway.
But having said all of that, the vast majority of the saw dust goes down inside the saw. Your sander, if used with out a vacuum, might produce more dust than the top side of the saw with out guard dust collection.
Just saying, it might be a lot of trouble to try to catch 10% of the dust on top.
Someone posted in the comments section of that video, that the person in the video is "standing on the wrong side of the fence". What do you think?
And with some new bearings, mine has absolutely no measurable runout. Of course, that is easier to accomplish when the blade is mounted rigidly, the table goes up and down and tilts :-).
It may be the "wrong side" in someone's mind but it sure looks right to me. If there is a kick-back, he's not going to get bloody. I
*try* to work from that side of the fence.
yes but looking at your guard, it is a front collection that redirects it back to the rear, probably because it is much easier to lift the guard if the hose is in the rear. I see a baffle that makes the air travel to the front of the guard, around , up and then back to the hose.
Leon wrote in news: _a6dnfdGEdh2ny snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
SawStop also has the dust hose connected to a shroud that surrounds the blade, instead of to a port that's basically just a 4"-diameter hole in the cabinet. I imagine that catches most of the sawdust.
Bill wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news6.newsguy.com:
I think he's full of baloney; I disagree with virtually everything he wrote.
Here, I'll say it again:
"Awareness of and an unflagging practice of "Safety" in the shop is unarguably the single most valuable component of a lasting enjoyment of same. However, too often in the current world of print and bits and bytes, playing the "safety" card has become a mixture of the tone of political correctness, a whiff of Wikipedia wisdom, and a nagging fear of being held accountable, presented in toto with a smug assertiveness that presupposes the purveyor's superior ken, but, in actuality is little more than ignorance of underlying issues swept under the shop mat."
As Doug and krw indicated, the commentard fits the above to a "T".
I finally finished the article. I really enjoy reading articles like that one. Here are a few comments:
--The hood having a solid wood front obscures vision too much. It's also a little too narrow (for my tolerances/comfort zone); he may have built one before.
--He's got a 1 1/2" diameter conduit beam being supported by just one mast (bolted to the far right end of his saw).
It bothers me to have that beam hanging... Something is going to crack, break or sag. I would use 2 masts (some commercial systems use "nested masts"). In fact, if I had them handy, I might two lamp bases with a length of EMT between them? Think of the possible lighting! ; )
Yes, we're having fun. I wonder what a Festool Blade Guard would look like? I guess it would be green. But that's no advantage over having a solid wood front!
Cheers, Bill
Thank you Swingman! But "ken"? I need a dictionary to read your posts! But hey, you tried to put one past me with "commentard" : ) But like Gramps says, I grok'ed it! So much ww-lingo to learn!
Bill
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