That's good to hear. I know there have been some folks less than pleased with Forrest after the old man, Jim Forrest, died a few years back. Since it is a family business, sure hope it stays on track, and American made.
Not going to burn it up. I have run my Forrest, full up buried, resawing a 1x6 piece of ipe. Ipe is approximately 2.5 time harder than oak.
Just don't try to screw it up...
A 20% hook is pretty high, no? The wood may be inclined to feed itself! Anyway, it appears that I may save some time and money by going with this blade, so I appreciate the time and effort spent to help make me a "happy camper"! :) There was even more convincing than I needed, but maybe someone else learned something too.
Based on reading a lot of blade reviews, on separate occasions, it does seem likely that those who were not satisfied probably needed saw adjustments (or smoother-running belts, or a new saw ; ) In numerous cases, those that made the adjustments wrote that they got improved results.
Bill
I have no idea.
The wood may be inclined to feed itself!
Seriously that blade handles 99.5% of what I want to do with it, the other .5% is done with the Flat grind Forrest II.
If for some reason the blade does not yield stellar results, you have a misalignment problem with the saw.
The blade is built and flattened to tight tolerances. I gladly pay a little extra to have Forrest do the resharpening and tune ups. typically I pay less than $30 plus shipping. It will be a long time before it needs that.
Let me warn you. If you use a zero clearance insert, do not tilt the blade with the insert in place. That will unflatten the blade in a heart beat. ;~) DAMHIKT.
On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 18:45:10 -0600, Leon
And with a fully buried blade and just a little experience, one can tell by the sound if the blade is starting to bog down or the smell if it's starting to burn.
But then you have a home made wobble dado blade. Hopefully of a useful dimension.
I won't ask but I know.
Mark
Just rotating the wheel the other direction doesn't fix it, huh? ; )
I'll bear your lesson in mind.
I have 2 40T and bought a 48 T Forest Blade. I took one off to get it sharpened but judging by the new one I could have waited. The 40T cuts so well I haven't been motivted yet to try the 48 tooth.
So important, I worked up poles and with a lot of lift equipment. The young guys hated me as I wouldn't let them listen to music. Tried to teach them to listento the equipment as a change is sound might be a warning of failure to come.
I think the 48 is overkill. The 40t is a good all around blade, the 48 would be too oriented to crosscutting and too slow for ripping.
Swingman is not chiming in here but I think he went to that same class as I did. ;~)
Perhaps cuz I typically get an almost burnished cut on the end grain with 40 teeth. Although it might be better for woods like pine or poplar, soft woods maybe.
Who me?! Yep, BTDT. Generally speaking, if a mistake can be made in the shop, I've made it. Especially if it involves angles. Yesterday I played trim carpenter on a bath remodel, pocket door trim, base board, shoe molding, et al, and managed to dodge angled bullets all day, but only because I made sure I had sufficient material to allow for my usual screw ups.
And, this morning, the painters are covering nicely for me. ;)
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