I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw that I located that
didn't have a blade guard or splitter. I was surprised. From the parts
diagram it looks like a real pain to remove the splitter (2 screws,
sideways?). Not only that it would cost $150 to obtain this part.
Maybe I've already deduced why it's "not present"?
Thee may be value in a riving knife instead? FWIW, this saw has a
Unifence that didn't move as smoothly as other fences I've seen, it
needed to be "palm tapped"--but that detail doesn't seem so critical.
Maybe it just needs wax? It locked solid however (though it is Aluminum
and may flex a little--you can see I've been reading! ;) )
Looks like it may either be this saw or a new Grizzly G0691. Does
Grizzly have a "great feeling" fence or just so-so? After all is said
and done, the cost of delivery of both saws is about the same(which
improves the price of the Grizzly, relatively speaking).
The model number on the cabinet is 36-829, which I've since learned is
the model number of the *cabinet*. %-)
The serial number begins 02B, which places it in February, 2002 I think.
It's not a "Platinum edition", it's plain, but it has a little sticker
"USA stripes" on the lower right.
Electric is on left side, motor cover on right side (underneath, not on
the outside), saw is RT.
It's 83" long with Unifence. Based on the date (2002), I think it's
Yep, that shows a different splitter than mine. Mine is a one knob
affair that goes off and on in less than ten seconds.
Since I don't use the blade guard, but I do use the splitter, I cut the
kickback pawls off the splitter and made it short enough that I can
leave it on for sled crosscuts, which is about 95% of crosscutting I do
in the shop.
And it still provides ample kickback protection for rip cuts.
I've got a late 90's Unisaw with the the Besemeyer fence and overhead
guard with the same splitter. Looking at the manual for the overhead
guard it looks like the splitter and the thumb nut set up are
available parts that came with the overhead guard.
Have used this device on a Unisaw and it not only functional, but easy
Easy to install, easy to remove when you don't need it.
Don't let the Unifence deter you. Very flexible:
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
Works great with the delta Unifence. Been using one for ten years and
recommend it. Great for jigs and easy add ons, like sacrificial fences.
Only caveat is that the Unifence doesn't work well with "hold downs" (board
buddies), which I don't use in any event.
This Uni-T-fence is sold in 43" and 36". When ripping a large piece do
you slide your fence forward a bit (toward you), so that you can get
more of the edge of the stuff you are cutting against the fence before
it reaches the blade? Otherwise, I don't understand why one would be
concerned about the additional length here.
Question: If you were trimming a 40" piece of plywood using the fence (I
hesitate to call it "ripping"), would you stand right behind it and hold
it down real well near the blade and hold it real well against the
fence? It seems what is really called for here is a good sled (that
may be supported in part by the extension table as well as the miter
slots). But if that were really true then the fence wouldn't be able
to travel so far away from the blade (50"). I haven't yet really made
sense of this. If I "knew absolutely nothing" this would make more
sense to me...
Ah, my recollection had been that you liked the board buddies. Jim
Tolpin, the author of "Table Saw Secrets" certainly likes them for
dados, and especially for stopped dados. That was what got me thinking
about the Uni-T-fence again. The Woodworking Show is coming to town
You surely already know that dado blades are not allowed in some
countries (I just mentioned that for a little "woodworking trivia"). Be
careful when you travel abroad... ; )
Sliding the fence out toward you to give you more of a guide before
reaching the blade would be a definite advantage. If you check into
most Euro style table saws most all use this type fence.
The big advantage would be when cutting sheets of plywood and you are
about 7' back from the front of the saw. It is tough to keep the panel
parallel along a 12" section of fence before a blade than a much longer
section before the blade.
Secondly you can use the fence to cross cut shore pieces more safely.
The end of the fence can be slid to the front of the blade so that short
pieces will not be trapped between the fence and the blade.
That would depend on the other dimension of the 40" piece of plywood.
Consider that the heavier the piece of panel the less likely that the
blade will throw the panel any appreciable distance. ;~)
If I am trimming a few inches off of a 40 x40 panel I stand in the
middle of the panel pushing with my right hand and using my left hand to
gently push the panel up against the fence. Basically I give most of
the push towards the blade with my right hand and a little bit of push,
just enough to keep the panel flat against the fence, with my left hand.
Actually I believe it is the "stacked" dado blades that are frowned
upon. There are however dado blades, they call them something else.
that will cut wide slots. These are typically more like a sharper
cutter as they are wide and fixed in width IIRC.
I just don't want it to throw anything at me (and I don't want to be in
the line of fire if it tries....) And I don't want to have to explain
that I didn't know I was doing something in a "stupid" way. As you
suggested, Leon provided me with good answers to my questions.
All in all you can't foresee what is going to be best for you. You
cannot foresee all possible problems. You cannot foresee any gotcha's.
Like Swingman indicated, until you actually start using the saw, shop,
over blade guard/dust collector you have no clue what you are going to
actually want to end up with.
You can way over think all of this, and possibly put a lot of work into
something that you may end up not liking. Better to make a decision
from actual experience vs. a preconceived notion of something you have
read or think you wold prefer.
Okay. But having said that, what do you think of this choice of blades:
LU74R (30-tooth, "glue-line rip")
LU-85R (80-tooth, "ultimate cut-off")
and possibly LU80R ("Ultimate plywood"--so that LU85R above, doesn't get
I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see which
way I'm leaning).
According to my measurements, my Biesemeyer Blade spreader is .105-.107
inches. I'm not sure how small of a kerf I can go down to (and was not
able to find further direction). Two of the blades above have kerfs of
.116 and .118. We talking about a 1/100" of an inch, and "blade
runout" (however much there is) is on my side here, so it doesn't seem
like a problem. FWIW, I have no plan to cut anything thicker than 3/4"
As Jeff suggested, I'll surely buy a lesser blade (if I can find any
full kerf ones) to practice on. The Freud-Diablo's, IIRC, seem to have
kerf around .91.
Freud once offered a set of blades consisting of a 24T rip, a 50T
and an 80T cross cut ply.
That set met all my needs when I added the 8" Freud stacked dado set.
Might want to check if the set is still offered at a set price.
Pardon my French, but after Leon signs off on a blade, who gives a
what the rest of the world has to say?
Time to spend some money.
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