Debug advice Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 stopped refrigerating

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On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 16:28:36 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster wrote:

Ah, resistance. Why didn't I think of that. I'll make a test jig out of the existing wires, and put a 5K ohm resistor on it. Thanks for that idea.
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Oh, oh, oh... Set up a video and put this on youtube. It might be a winner.
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On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 19:49:56 -0400, tom wrote:

Heh heh... You should have heard the wife scream when "I" got zapped by the 12uF capacitor!
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On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 01:56:54 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster wrote:

Hi Uncle Fridge Monster,
We let it cool overnight and reassembled the cap & start relay and plugged it in a few times. Here is a video of what happened. http://tinypic.com/r/20ubk3d/9
Can anyone tell, from that video, what is happening?
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On 7/9/2016 12:47 PM, Danny D. wrote: ...

Yep - this video is telling the same story as the first one: the motor tries to start & the overload clicks open when it overheats from the excessive current. (It's probably a bimetal leaf.)
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On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 12:57:59 -0400, Bob Engelhardt wrote:

The guy at the parts store showed me a type of relay that has a semiconductor disc inside which shatters, and when you shake the relay, if it's broken, it rattles.
The one he had on the counter rattled, but he said mine isn't that kind (probably a bimetallic strip as you said).
He really talked me out of buying both parts. They were each about 50 bucks, and he said I'd just be unhappy. So he sent me home to do some more diagnostics with a test cable, which I'm gonna make now.
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On 7/9/2016 6:50 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Danny, are my posts making it through your server?
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On 7/9/2016 12:47 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Yes. I can. Totally what I diagnosed yesterday.
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On 7/8/2016 10:40 PM, Danny D. wrote:

No. Sorry, but that takes a lot of skills that the average HO does not have.
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On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 23:22:01 -0000 (UTC), Danny D. wrote: Here is a summary, from top to bottom of where it's at.
SUMMARY: I don't know if I tested it correctly, nor if I identified the circuit correctly, but if I both identified and tested the circuit correctly, then the compressor motor is bad.
However, maybe I made a mistake?
DETAILS: 0. Bought in 2010, the wife's Sears Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 refrigerator/freezer just stopped working at the same time that a periodic "humming and then clicking" noise started happening.
1. Here is the parts diagram (I annotated in red with the names of the parts):
http://i.cubeupload.com/5z2J05.gif
2. Condenser fan is blowing full time (dunno if it always did that).
http://i.cubeupload.com/dQOTKL.jpg
3. Condenser coils are at room temperature and are dusty:
http://i.cubeupload.com/jgkVXv.jpg
4. Compressor tries to start every few minutes, and hums for about 15 seconds and then the overload relay clicks off.
http://i.cubeupload.com/p2OiCZ.jpg
5. Top of compressor is hot to the touch so I let it cool down overnight but no change in operation:
http://i.cubeupload.com/wAX37P.jpg
6. Here is a video of the humming noise kick on every five minutes for about 10 or 20 seconds and then a click when it shuts off: http://tinypic.com/r/e6abk7/9
Here is another video of the humming noise and click off the next day when the compressor was cold: http://tinypic.com/r/20ubk3d/9
7. I removed the 12uF capacitor which looked good and had it tested at an appliance parts counter and it tested good.
http://i.cubeupload.com/PiHwXk.jpg
8. I removed the overload and start relay (combination kit):
http://i.cubeupload.com/uHWsBd.jpg
http://i.cubeupload.com/EnZxki.jpg
9. I ran a few continuity tests, which seemed to return what may be "normal" results:
http://i.cubeupload.com/PmCLK7.jpg
10. Unpowered, I shorted the two capacitor terminals in the relay so that I could test continuity:
http://i.cubeupload.com/3tJTV7.jpg
11. The relay has only two wires going into it, and three holes coming out.
http://i.cubeupload.com/HBepTj.jpg
12. Disconnected from power, and with the capacitor terminals shorted: a. Red power input terminal went directly to the relay top output pin b. White neutral input terminal went directly to *both* lower output pins
http://i.cubeupload.com/I3t2HZ.jpg
13. If I remove the short between the capacitor pins, it changes to: a. Red power input still went directly to the relay top output pin b. White neutral input still went directly to the rearward lower output pin c. White neutral input no longer innervates the forward lower output pin
http://i.cubeupload.com/JwcELQ.jpg
=====================14. In summary, this is the relay continuity
http://i.cubeupload.com/EpNXUi.jpg
(Note that this is not the type of relay that you can shake to hear rattling inside.)
15. Powered, the relay has two neutrals and one hot (I would have thought it should be the other way around, but I tested the neutrals to the chassis of the frig):
http://i.cubeupload.com/AIlj4p.jpg
16. Give those two results above, I am *guessing* that these are the motor terminals (top seems to be COMMON (hot), Forward-bottom seems to be START (neutral), and rearward bottom seems to be RUN (neutral):
http://i.cubeupload.com/23ew1U.jpg
(Again, I would have thought it would be a common neutral and not a common hot but it doesn't seem to be wired that way.)
15. Here is a slightly better test jig with the 12uF/180VAC start capacitor in series with the terminal that I "think" is the START terminal:
http://i.cubeupload.com/WrCzv4.jpg
16. I accidentally hooked it up backward the first time, with the HOT wire splitting into two, one of which went through the capacitor and then to what I think is the compressor START terminal - and the other hot went to what I think is the compressor RUN terminal.
http://i.cubeupload.com/UJcLZD.jpg
17. Then I labeled the wires, and hooked it up the opposite way - with the HOT wire going only to what I think is the compressor topward COMMON terminal. One neutral wire went to the capacitor and then to what I think is the compressor bottom-forward-facing START terminal and the other neutral went to what I think is the compressor bottom-rearward facing RUN terminal.
http://i.cubeupload.com/ryMq7y.jpg
In both tests, the motor just hummed but did not appear to start. When I pulled what I think is the start wire neutral off, the hum didn't change.
What do you make of these results?
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On Monday, July 11, 2016 at 7:19:29 PM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:

IDK, but as I posted previously, you verified the cap is good, if you have 120 at both windings and it won't start, you're screwed.
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On 7/11/2016 7:19 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Nicely done.
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Just for the hell of it can you take an ohmmeter measurement from any of the three terminals to the case? It should show open (very high resistance). If it measures any resistance, the compressor is bad.
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On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 20:06:03 -0400, tom wrote:

Thanks for that advice, as I'm at a loss as to how to know the humming sounds of a good versus bad compressor.
I did check the resistance when I was trying to figure the pinout of the compressor three pins, and all are insulated.
But thank you for that idea as I had not mentioned that test.
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This may help you if you have a good meter that will read low ohms.
http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/09/09/identifying-compressor-terminals-start-run-and-main/
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One other thing to search on is CSIR compressor. That stands for Capacitor Start - Induction Run motor. Since you unit seems to only have the one capacitor, it is likely a CSIR compressor. If you can pop open the start relay and see if there really is a relay, it will be a current relay that on start up the high current pulls in the relay and connects the line high to the start winding. Once the compressor is running, the relay drops out and disconnects the capacitor.
You can do as the one poster suggest and make up jumpers and see if you can get the compressor to start. Identify the three terminals (C-S-R for Common, Start, and Run)
Think through the problem and you should be able to make some progress.
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On Tue, 12 Jul 2016 01:19:23 -0400, tom wrote:

Thank you for that reference which said: a. The highest reading will be the ?Start? winding b. The next highest reading will be the ?Run? winding c. The lowest reading will be the ?Common? winding
Unfortunately, I lent my Fluke DMM to my ex brother in law, and he hasn't returned it yet - but I did check with the emergency Radio Shack dial meter, and I think I've properly identified the COMMON, START, and RUN terminals on the compressor.
I zeroed the Radio Shack meter, and put the ohms on the lowest setting (RX100), and tested.
1. The (reputed) START to COMMON was "about" 5 ohms 2. The (reputed) RUN to COMMON was "slightly less" 3. The START to RUN was slightly less than 10 ohms
Also, I checked the resistance to ground (i.e., to the copper pipes). First I checked that the copper pipe was grounded, and they were. Then I checked each terminal on the compressor to the pipe and they were all infinite.
So, *electrically*, the compressor checks out perfectly (within the abilities of my instruments).
There is the mechanical part though ... still to test.
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On Tuesday, July 12, 2016 at 10:40:33 AM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:

t-run-and-main/

What mechanical part? Like I posted days ago. You said that you took the cap to the parts store, they verified it was good. You have 120V going to the start and run winding, it doesn't start. You now know it's not something simple and cheap to fix. What more is there to do? Either get a new fridge or be prepared to spend:
A - $150 for a tech to come out and tell you what you already know, plus an estimate to fix it, and it will likley be just an estimate.
B - Following step A, are you prepared to spend $500+ to fix it?
That's all you need to figure out.
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On Tue, 12 Jul 2016 09:29:43 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote:

I think the compressor is electrically good, and I think the start cap is electrically good and I think the relay/overload is electrically good.
In addition to a mechanically bad compressor, that still leaves either low R34a or a blockage (neither of which is likely), although a compressor mechanically going bad in just 6 years is also unlikely since they're built to last longer than that.
It would be fantastic if I could find a picture of what is inside the hermetically sealed black box. It's amazingly difficult to find.
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https://www.google.com/search?q=hermetic+refrigeration+compressor+pictures&sa=X&biw 24&bihd6&tbm=isch&imgil7BQOH_xZTzVM%253A%253Bdwoy9-wprqoGfM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ref-wiki.com%25252Ftechnical-information%25252F145-compressors%25252F31773-hermetic-compressors.html&source=iu&pf=m&fir7BQOH_xZTzVM%253A%252Cdwoy9-wprqoGfM%252C_&usg=__v0Z_k8Dk-8wDwTgId9DwnpzWm20%3D&ved hUKEwj0xb2l2O7NAhXJ2SYKHQFCApMQyjcIOQ&ei=-EiFV_TpFMmzmwGBhImYCQ#imgrc7BQOH_xZTzVM%3A
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