Debug advice Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 stopped refrigerating

I glanced at the top third, or so, of this lengthy overkill. You really run on and on, you're lucky I read that much. I saw my (yet unanswered) question three times in the first third or so of this. It's a simple question, and I'm looking for a simple answer, not a lengthy rambling on and on.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon
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I saw my (very simple) question three times. I'd sure appreciate a (very simple) answer.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

I asked you a simple question. I'm waiting.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

I saw it three times. It was (is) a VERY simple question, and asks for a VERY simple answer.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

I read about the top 1/4 to 1/3 of that text. I saw my very simple question three times. Which he's not answered with a very simple answer.

Your powers of observation are excellent. In more than one regard.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Since you appear to think I know all about your posting style, I must presume that you there fore know all about mine. I like a good trim text job. Leave enough text so we know the question that goes with the reply. But, sending a dozen or so quoted replies back through the list is really bad manners.

With your simple answer to my simple question, please do a reasonable text trim. Thank you.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Since you appear to think I know all about your posting style, I must presume that you there fore know all about mine. I like a good trim text job. Leave enough text so we know the question that goes with the reply. But, sending a dozen or so quoted replies back through the list is really bad manners.

With your simple answer to my simple question, please do a reasonable text trim. Thank you.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Since you appear to think I know all about your posting style, I must presume that you there fore know all about mine. I like a good trim text job. Leave enough text so we know the question that goes with the reply. But, sending a dozen or so quoted replies back through the list is really bad manners.

With your simple answer to my simple question, please do a reasonable text trim. Thank you.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

That you have 3 choices:

A - Pay $150 for a tech to come out and tell you that the compressor is screwed and it's going to cost $500+ to fix.

B - Buy a new fridge

C - Continue to play Stormin's silly game and let your food spoil.

Reply to
trader_4

To update this thread, I replaced the Kenmore with a Whirlpool long ago.

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When I opened the back of the Whirlpool, I was surprised to find a Kenmore build sheet inside. Everything is almost exactly the same in the Whirlpool as it was in the Kenmore, even down to the capacitor and relay.

Even the shelves and wire racks were the same.

So Whirlpool *is* Kenmore and Kenmore is Whirlpool.

The current in the Whirlpool was lower than the Kenmore though, at about

1.2 amps when the compressor was running (it was about 3 amps, as I recall, with the older fridge).
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The new Whirlpool uses what appears to be a similar Embraco compressor which uses R134a but with a much lower LRA of 11.7 amps (as opposed to the

17 point something locked rotor amperage of the older Kenmore fridge).
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I've already had a service call, because the Whirlpool fridge is *supposed* to keep to between 37 and 40 degrees F with the freezer between 10 and 0 degrees F, but the thing is about 5 to 10 degrees F too warm when both settings are in the minimum position.

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Funny thing, when you put the *freezer* at the minimum setting, the

*fridge* gets more air through the vent at top left (in this side-by-side refrigerator/freezer combination). That's because lowering the temperature in the freezer simply makes the vent open more of the fan air to the refrigerator.
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It's confusing, and it's counterintuitive that when you set the freezer to colder, the refrigerator gets *less* air, hence it's warmer. I don't know what changes when you set the refrigerator colder though.

This is all I think I know:

  1. The compressor only runs at one speed.
  2. Therefore the compressor is either on, or it's off.
  3. There is a condenser fan on the bottom of the refrigerator.
  4. That condenser fan also only has one speed.
  5. There is a fan in the back of the freezer about mid way up.
  6. That fan also has only one speed.
  7. There is no fan in the refrigerator.
  8. The refrigerator has no coils and has no fans.
  9. The evaporator coils are only in the back of the freezer.
  10. So the freezer is what cools the refrigerator.
  11. That's why lowering the freezer temperature raises the refrig temperature (according to the service guy anyway).
  12. The freezer dial apparently only controls the louvers of the air that is blow by the freezer fan from the freezer to the refrigerator.
  13. I have no idea what the refrigerator dial does.
Reply to
Danny D.

To update this thread, I replaced the Kenmore with a Whirlpool long ago.

formatting link

When I opened the back of the Whirlpool, I was surprised to find a Kenmore build sheet inside. Everything is almost exactly the same in the Whirlpool as it was in the Kenmore, even down to the capacitor and relay.

Even the shelves and wire racks were the same.

So Whirlpool *is* Kenmore and Kenmore is Whirlpool.

The current in the Whirlpool was lower than the Kenmore though, at about

1.2 amps when the compressor was running (it was about 3 amps, as I recall, with the older fridge).
formatting link

The new Whirlpool uses what appears to be a similar Embraco compressor which uses R134a but with a much lower LRA of 11.7 amps (as opposed to the

17 point something locked rotor amperage of the older Kenmore fridge).
formatting link

I've already had a service call, because the Whirlpool fridge is *supposed* to keep to between 37 and 40 degrees F with the freezer between 10 and 0 degrees F, but the thing is about 5 to 10 degrees F too warm when both settings are in the minimum position.

formatting link

Funny thing, when you put the *freezer* at the minimum setting, the

*fridge* gets more air through the vent at top left (in this side-by-side refrigerator/freezer combination). That's because lowering the temperature in the freezer simply makes the vent open more of the fan air to the refrigerator.
formatting link

It's confusing, and it's counterintuitive that when you set the freezer to colder, the refrigerator gets *less* air, hence it's warmer. I don't know what changes when you set the refrigerator colder though.

This is all I think I know:

  1. The compressor only runs at one speed.
  2. Therefore the compressor is either on, or it's off.
  3. There is a condenser fan on the bottom of the refrigerator.
  4. That condenser fan also only has one speed.
  5. There is a fan in the back of the freezer about mid way up.
  6. That fan also has only one speed.
  7. There is no fan in the refrigerator.
  8. The refrigerator has no coils and has no fans.
  9. The evaporator coils are only in the back of the freezer.
  10. So the freezer is what cools the refrigerator.
  11. That's why lowering the freezer temperature raises the refrig temperature (according to the service guy anyway).
  12. The freezer dial apparently only controls the louvers of the air that is blow by the freezer fan from the freezer to the refrigerator.
  13. I have no idea what the refrigerator dial does.
Reply to
Danny D.

To update this thread, I replaced the Kenmore with a Whirlpool long ago.

formatting link

When I opened the back of the Whirlpool, I was surprised to find a Kenmore build sheet inside. Everything is almost exactly the same in the Whirlpool as it was in the Kenmore, even down to the capacitor and relay.

Even the shelves and wire racks were the same.

So Whirlpool *is* Kenmore and Kenmore is Whirlpool.

The current in the Whirlpool was lower than the Kenmore though, at about

1.2 amps when the compressor was running (it was about 3 amps, as I recall, with the older fridge).
formatting link

The new Whirlpool uses what appears to be a similar Embraco compressor which uses R134a but with a much lower LRA of 11.7 amps (as opposed to the

17 point something locked rotor amperage of the older Kenmore fridge).
formatting link

I've already had a service call, because the Whirlpool fridge is *supposed* to keep to between 37 and 40 degrees F with the freezer between 10 and 0 degrees F, but the thing is about 5 to 10 degrees F too warm when both settings are in the minimum position.

formatting link

Funny thing, when you put the *freezer* at the minimum setting, the

*fridge* gets more air through the vent at top left (in this side-by-side refrigerator/freezer combination). That's because lowering the temperature in the freezer simply makes the vent open more of the fan air to the refrigerator.
formatting link

It's confusing, and it's counterintuitive that when you set the freezer to colder, the refrigerator gets *less* air, hence it's warmer. I don't know what changes when you set the refrigerator colder though.

This is all I think I know:

  1. The compressor only runs at one speed.
  2. Therefore the compressor is either on, or it's off.
  3. There is a condenser fan on the bottom of the refrigerator.
  4. That condenser fan also only has one speed.
  5. There is a fan in the back of the freezer about mid way up.
  6. That fan also has only one speed.
  7. There is no fan in the refrigerator.
  8. The refrigerator has no coils and has no fans.
  9. The evaporator coils are only in the back of the freezer.
  10. So the freezer is what cools the refrigerator.
  11. That's why lowering the freezer temperature raises the refrig temperature (according to the service guy anyway).
  12. The freezer dial apparently only controls the louvers of the air that is blow by the freezer fan from the freezer to the refrigerator.
  13. I have no idea what the refrigerator dial does.
Reply to
Danny D.

Don't bet money on that. Kenmore can also be Electrolux (formerly Frigidaire) LG, Samsung, and just about any other appliance manufacturer.

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Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

On the inside of the refrig in the freezer compartment there will be a panel that can be removed. Once removed, you will see the evaporator coils. If they are caked with ice, that is the problem. They are supposed to be ice-free, where the accumulated frost is melted during the defrost cycle. If the coils are solid with ice, the system can no longer cool. There are three possible problems, listed here in order of likelihood:

1 Defrost thermostat has failed. This is a ten dollar part you can replace yourself easily.

2 Defrost heater has failed. This part is around $15-20 on the internet, plus shipping. It is easy to replace.

3 Defrost timer has failed. This is more complicated and depends a LOT on the design of the refrigerator.

You can learn all about this by going to google with the following search string :

Kenmore refrigerator doesn't cool.

There will be links there describing possible solutions, videos showing how to do the repair, and sources for buying the parts......

It ain't rocket surgery, but it does take a bit of self-education......

Reply to
Mike Jones

Short term I can see that, especially if just loaded up or in very ho weather. The temperatures should be able to balance where you want them, though it may take 24 hours or so.

The compressor has a limited capacity so if you extract more heat from the freezer, it will take less from the refrigerator section. One the freezer is at the desired temperature the fridge section should be able to catch up.

Many new units have dual systems. My Samsung keep each setting, freezer, refrigerator, center drawer at the exact set temperature.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

Thanks for that update.

The funny thing is, just as we dropped Netflix on principle, and just as I dropped Sears Craftsman (Poulan) chain saws on principle, I told my wife we'd get any fridge other than a Kenmore, on principle.

My point is supply and demand pressure.

If everyone stopped buying products that prematurely fail, they'd have a downward pressure on poor reliability.

Yet, the moment I opened up the bottom of the new Whirlpool fridge, a Kenmore build sheet popped out.

The only thing different is the name plate. Sigh.

Reply to
Danny D.

It must defrost on its own because I don't see any settings or buttons for the defrost cycle.

Reply to
Danny D.

We wanted a KISS refrigerator, just as we want a KISS washing machine and dryer.

I remember when I was in college, we used the washing machines and dryers in the laundry room of the dorm, where they pretty much had a slot for quarters and a button for on and off (and maybe a water temperature settings).

We wanted a refrigerator that was simple. The only rule was that we would NOT reward Kenmore by buying another Kenmore for the rest of our lives. That's a principle thing.

However, because of the layout of the kitchen, we were stuck with the side-by-side doors so we ended up with a frige of the same type as the old.

We never expected it to be *exactly* the same though, since we bought online and had it delivered. So we didn't realize that it was exactly the same until it was delivered, and even then, until I took the backplate off, I hadn't realized everything was exactly the same inside also.

Sigh. Fooled me they did.

Reply to
Danny D.

Have not checked into it in a long time, but isn't Kenmore just the name put on by Sears as Sears does not really make anything ? They could be made by anyone.

Whirlpool is the name of a company that actually makes things. They also have the Roper (think that is the one) line that is an economy line.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

NO. Kenmore makes NOTHING, Whirlpool, Samsung etc build for Kenmore and put the Kenmore name on it.

Reply to
ChairMan

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