You should be able to get a replacement start cap for MUCH less than $100,
and just bypass the starting relay. You will hear instantly if the
compressor starts. If it does, the compressor is OK, and the only piece
left is the relay. Some time ago I got a run cap from a refrigeration
supply for $6. I expected it to be more.
And, if the compressor does not start with the new cap and the relay
bypassed, then you can be fairly sure the compressor cannot be salvaged.
On Tue, 12 Jul 2016 17:23:25 -0500, Jon Elson wrote:
Funny thing is that the Sears country-wide prices are *far* (far!) lower
than the prices at the local appliance shops here in the Silicon Valley!
The run cap is $17.39 in that Sears USA parts diagram, but at the local San
Jose parts stores, it was between $45 and $65 for those who had it in
Interestingly, the relay is $45.17 in that Sears US diagram, and it was
about $60 to $75 at the local parts stores that had it in stock.
Meanwhile, the Supco RC0410 1/4-to-1/3 HP 120VAC "3n1 Start" Solid State
Relay Overload Start Capacitor Combination should be around $10, but I paid
$29.50 for it at the local Appliance Parts Store.
What do you make of this?
a. The first time I plugged in the RC0410, the compressor started!
b. After about two minutes, I wanted to show teh wife, and, in her
presence, the second time I plugged it in, it overheated and turned off.
Heh heh. It "is" more. In San Jose at least. I paid $29.50 for it today.
Ah, but what if the compressor starts the first time, and then fails to
start the second time?
I'll try to get a video of this - but I am waiting for it to cool down (and
for the wife to go to bed so she doesn't influence the test results).
I guess that means you're actually looking at the pictures!
We know the cap is needed, based on that, so, it makes sense that the test
jig without the cap wouldn't ever have worked.
This morning it wouldn't start, even though it was cool, so I started
wondering if the power coming out of the refrigerator cord was being
shunted in some other circuit, since the hard-start cap was hooked to the
same power as the rest of the refrigerator:
To give the compressor its own dedicated power, I created a test cord with
alligator clamps so that I could have a dedicated power for the compressor.
Note in this picture the open refrigerator leads:
But, nothing seems to have changed by giving the compressor its own
dedicated wall outlet:
When it works (which right now is about 1 out of 10 times), it draws only a
couple of amps, but when it fails (which is most of the time), it draws a
whopping 13.5 amps!
I am trying to understand what makes the compressor start sometimes, and
what makes it not start most of the time, all under essentially the same
To debug what's going on, I need to CHANGE some condition.
But what condition can I change that will lead me to a diagnosis of what's
1) you're obsessive-compulsive
2) you're extremely boring
3) you won't take a hint even when it's delivered with a sledgehammer
4) you need help from a mental health professional
5) you need a new fridge
6) if she hasn't already, your latest wife is about to divorce you
(='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10
My guess is the overload / start relay on the side of the compressor. A
quick check is to remove it and listen to it while you shake it. If it
rattles, it is bad. These are around $45 from Sears, may be cheaper if
you prowl around ebay. You can get the part numbers from Sears.
It could also be the start / run capacitor... around $10 for the part.
But I would be more inclined to think the relay. That is what went out on
On Fri, 08 Jul 2016 23:22:01 +0000, Danny D. wrote:
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
I hooked 120 VAC to the COMMON (hot) and RUN (neutral) and then jumped,
with a screwdriver, the START (neutral) but that didn't start the
I did the same thing, essentially, with the 12uF capacitor hooked in series
with the RUN, and it didn't start.
I would connect Neutral to the Common and Line to the Run. Connect the Run
capacitor from Run to Start. Apply power and momentary short the capacitor.
See if that does anything.
You might give the can a few good wacks with a hammer in case it is just
something jammed in the pump.
Do you know anyone that does automotive AC work? They would have most of
what is needed to change out the compressor sans a good torch and sil-fos
Or wait for a good appliance sale.
Googling for how to "unlock a compressor", I found mention of a "hard start
kit", which some people say is the same as a "3n1", but others say they're
Calling local appliance stores, they say they're the same thing (but that
reference above says they're not the same thing).
The local appliance store has a Supco RC0410 "hard start kit" in stock:
Amazon also sells these "RC0410 Hard Start Kits":
Some people equate the 3n1 with the "hard start kit":
Q: Is the hard start kit and the 3n1 the same thing or different?
Do you have experience with it kicking off a stuck compressor?
From the ad:
The 3 n' 1 Start Relay adds new life to old refrigerators and freezers by
providing an additional boost to the compressor. 1/4 and 1/3 Horsepower
So it looks like they are the same.
And no, never used one. Stuck compressors are very rare. Most of the time
the windings overheat and short. The arcing produces acids that ruin the
But for $16 why not give it a try?
Can you take some more pictures of the start relay? Can you open the start
relay for inspection? It looks like it just snaps together.
As others have said you must let it set for about 20 minutes for the
pressure between the high side and the suction side to equalize. Also, if
the kit uses a PTC starter, that also must cool down to room temperature.
Here's the sound of the compressor running with the hard-start capacitor
hooked up, sinking only about 3 amps through the COMMON terminal:
Here's the sound of the compressor turning off, after running for about 20
minutes or so, sinking about 11 amps through the COMMON terminal:
The capacitor on that hard start kit may be too large and cause overheating.
Why don't you go ahead and get the correct part specified for the unit you
For the last time, did you clean the dust off the condenser coil? That's
Given that the compressor is clearly working (at least for a short period
of time), it seems that I have to go back and figure out what's bad.
Seems to make sense to replace the cap, even though 3 tests showed it to be
I was throwing away the frig as of this morning, so, there was no need to
clean the condenser coil. I guess I'll clean it now - although do you
really thing *that* is what is making the compressor cycle?
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