Debug advice Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 stopped refrigerating

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Debugging advice requested. I have never debugged a refrigerator in my life. I never even looked at the back of one before.
2010 Sears Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 refrigerator/freezer just stopped working at the same time that a periodic "humming and then clicking" noise started happening.
Inside temperature this morning was 59F degrees in the frig and 49F in the freezer (outside temperature is about 70F).
Both dial settings are on cold (mid range) where they were always left. There is no on/off switch that we know about. Electricity is working (fan and lights are working).
Fan is blowing full time (dunno if it always did that).
http://i.cubeupload.com/dQOTKL.jpg
Coils are at room temperature and are dusty:
http://i.cubeupload.com/jgkVXv.jpg
Compressor may not be turning on (how can we tell)?
http://i.cubeupload.com/p2OiCZ.jpg
No reason to suspect icemaker water supply yet:
http://i.cubeupload.com/myOvgH.jpg
Top of compressor is hot to the touch but not so hot as to burn (but pretty hot otherwise):
http://i.cubeupload.com/wAX37P.jpg
We hear a humming noise kick on every five minutes for about 10 or 20 seconds and then a click when it shuts off: http://tinypic.com/r/e6abk7/9
The only things new are the humming noise, and the fact that the refrigerator and freezer aren't working.
First aim is to figure out how this thing works. I was expecting to see a "motor" for the black compressor "bulb" but there is no motor I can see - but the top of the black compressor "bulb" is hot to the touch - but the coils are not.
I think the solenoid at the compressor "bulb" is what is making the noise. Any debugging advice?
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Danny D. wrote:

Might be the start cap on the compressor unit - what you're calling a "bulb" is a hermetically sealed compressor with the motor inside . The click you're hearing is probably the overload relay .
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On 9/07/2016 7:40 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:

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On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 07:43:45 +0800, Rheilly Phoull wrote:

Does this 20-second video sound like what you'd expect if the start cap wasn't working?
http://tinypic.com/r/e6abk7/9
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On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 18:40:55 -0500, Terry Coombs wrote:

Is this black rectangle the start cap?
http://i.cubeupload.com/aOLfge.jpg
I disconnected the spring (what is it there for?). I disconnected the wiring. I tried to pull the black cap outward. I tried to pull the gray base outward.
Neither would budge. Have you removed them before?
Is there a trick to removing them?
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On 7/8/2016 9:26 PM, Danny D. wrote:

To keep these parts from coming off.
Pull straight out from compressor. Might need to pry with slotted screw driver. Wiggle them back and forth while pulling.
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On 7/8/2016 9:26 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Yes

The spring is there to hold the cap in place. It is simply plugged into the overload/relay body. See: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/kenmore-refrigerator-parts/2264017/0046/106/model-10659422801/0582/0165000.html
It's not clear how the base is fastened, but you probably won't have to remove it anyhow.
Bob
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On 7/8/2016 7:22 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Sounds just exactly like a bad start relay on the compressor. This is considered "sealed system". If you have the owners manual, see how long is the sealed system warranty. Probably five years, so you're out of warranty.
If it's out of warranty, are you any good with electrical repairs? Please write back, and we'll continue the discussion.
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I would add that you should unplug the unit until you figure out what is wrong. In the current condition the OC protection is greatly stressed and will not last long.
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On 7/8/2016 8:31 PM, tom wrote:

You are so, so right. The compressor will eventually over heat and might burn out.
Thank you, well said.
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On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 19:47:38 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Thanks for the advice. The last thing I fixed with your help was the washing machine, who had an F28/F11 which meant the motor control board was fried.
Before that, it was a non-operational furnace (bad thermistor), and before that there were a host of things, most of which are working just fine now.
I have the frig unplugged to cool the black compressor "sealed system" down (right now the black top of the "sealed system" is warm to the touch but not hot).
A few questions of what I should expect, since I'm not sure that I understand how the thing works yet.
Of course, I know that decompressing fluid freon (or whatever it uses) to a gas makes the freon cold which makes the pipes that run through the refrigerator cold, and then recompressing that recirculating gas back to a liquid creates heat which is blown off by the fan - but I don't know the mechanics of what I should expect (e.g., what pumps the fluid/gas through the system? Gravity?).
So I have questions if I may ask...
0. Are there 3 things inside the "sealed unit"? a. Motor b. Compressor c. Solenoid
1. Is the sealed unit a replaceable part?
http://i.cubeupload.com/wAX37P.jpg (same pic as before)
2. Why would the top of the black sealed unit be hot to the touch?
3. Is there a motor overheat safety switch that may have tripped?
4. Are those black coils in the bottom supposed to be warm or cold?
http://i.cubeupload.com/jgkVXv.jpg (same pic as before)
5. I don't see motion, but the vibrating can be felt on the solenoid on the OUTSIDE of the sealed unit (it may be translating from inside though). What is the purpose of that solenoid on the outside of the sealed unit?
http://i.cubeupload.com/p2OiCZ.jpg (same pic as before)
In an hour or so, when the "sealed unit" has cooled down, I'll plug it back in and report back.
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On 7/8/2016 8:49 PM, Danny D. wrote:

speaking).

CY: The big black thing in the back is a compressor.

CY: No, the motor and compressor are inside. The start relay (and some have a relay and a capacitor) outside the sealed unit. The relay and cap should never contact refrigerant. That said, the company probably considers the relay and cap to be part of the sealed system.

CY: Yes. Though, it's often not cost effective. Requires refrigerant pump, brazing, electrical, and more than that. Takes about three hours.

CY: The black sealed unit contains electric windings for the motor. The unit keeps trying to start the compressor. Amp draw, turns the electric watts into heat.

CY: Yes, that combination amp and temp safety switch is what gives you the repeated hum click.

CY: The compressor has two windings. Start, and run. The relay supplies power to the start winding, and then later power to the run winding.

CY: I'm guessing it will do exactly the same hum click routine. It's late on the east coast, I'm going to bed.
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On 7/8/2016 8:49 PM, Danny D. wrote:

As a Kenmore, you may be able to buy OEM parts, but if it were my unit, I'd use a universal hard start kit. Seeing as how I carry them in my vehicle and use the universal kits at work.
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On 7/8/2016 7:47 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Since you missed the question the first time.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Classic signs of fucked compressor.
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On 7/9/2016 2:20 PM, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:

Says you. I've worked on more than a few of these, and the compressor was fine.
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You doubt the opinion of someone who spent his life hanging fire extinguishers on walls?
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On 7/9/2016 4:49 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Not that Danny reads my posts, you see.
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On 7/12/2016 11:36 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

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On 7/14/2016 8:31 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

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