The labor cost for one #6 will be much higher, too. That stuff is a PITA to work with.
Just moving the breakers will take a lot more than a couple of hours. It's more like an 8-12 hour job. Then there's the dicking around with the power company and inspectors, and all that rot. It's not a simple task. I've seen quotes well above $1000 for just a panel swap.
Agree with everyone else about running a subpanel instead of the couple cir cuits. I have a 100 amp panel in the garage. I used a 60 amp breaker to p ut a subpanel in the basement. I installed a lot of circuits and lights an d two 220 plugs in the basement. Had to use some of the double breakers to make room in the main panel for the subpanel breaker.
ox is located in the garage and there is no clear, open route to the baseme nt and on to the shop. Here's what I am going to do:
amp and a dedicated 15 amp circuit to the shop. I'm guessing $1200 to $150
0 for this and I suppose the utility will try to hit me up for the cost of a new meter.kitchen table.
I agree with Mike and Unquestionably. In fact that is the setup I have. T hat subpanel just makes life soooooooo much easier, but get one with at lea st 8 breakers spaces in it.
One change I would make to their suggestions, I would run 100A to the shop. That way you have plenty of power if you wind up adding something that li kes it amps. Also, depending on both where you live and your comfort level , you can do the wiring of the shop yourself and save a lot. Also, dependi ng on where you live, the power company may not require a new meter. If yo u are aerial to the house (vs buried cable), they may run the heavier servi ce to your house at no cost.
"Gramps' shop" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
Not enough IMHO.
If you're hiring an electrician anyway, have him run one 240V 60A circuit feeding a subpanel in the shop. That way, you'll have 240V available in the shop if you ever need it, and more than one 20A circuit at 120V.
There are no breakers to move when installing a new sub-panel. But you know what, I'll tell my electrician he has it all wrong and he should call you.
Mike Marlow ... how the hell are you...???
??? To install a sub panel you have to "move" a new/additional 220 amp bre aker into the main panel. New breaker. You may have to use some of those double up breakers to make space for the new 220 breaker feeding the sub pa nel. So you would be moving those breakers.
I think there's some misunderstanding of what we're talking about.
I suggested the OP put a sub-panel out in his garage. This can come off the main feed into the house. I'm not sure what a 220amp breaker is that you mentioned.
But it really doesn't matter anyway, because it's semantics since every situation is different. The labor/price I quoted was from a real electrician doing a real job, similar to the one I suggested to the OP. I wasn't submitting a bid or giving him an exact quote for the job. I was simply giving advice and a real world example to help him decide. As usual in here, everybody has to jump in and bitch about every little aspect of everything everyone says.
Maybe some misunderstanding. How about a 60 amp 220 volt breaker in the main panel to feed the sub panel.
Sorry, I thougt we were talking about replacing the panel with a 200A service. I agree, a sub shoud only take an hour or two (give or take a bunch of sheetrock).
I think he means 220V breaker. If the main panel is full, then space has to be made for the breaker feeding the sub. At least that's how I read it.
Maybe even he meant 240 volt.
I think we are mostly on the same page here. We just disagree about the details.
Not being an officially trained electrician, I've never looked into the 220
-230-240 volt or 120-115-110 volt issue. I'm pretty sure those are all ide ntical and interchangeable, but why are all the numbers used interchangeabl y? Why don't we pick one number and use it? Why does everyone talk about
120 volt outlets in their house, but the outlet says 115 volts.
IIRC it was 110/220, now it is 120/240 in the USA. Why that changed I do not know unless it was to be able to save on the gauge of cables and wires. And most home electrical devices will run on slightly less than and or slightly higher than the stated voltage.
Oddly I think 440 volt is still normal
It could also be 132 Vac so that would be 264.
Just as long as it works does not matter what you call it.
" snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
It's a variety of historical reasons. 110V is what Edison originally used for his first DC systems (for reasons no longer understood, that was considered "safe"). When Tesla and General Electric developed AC systems, they picked 120V as the "household" voltage, but because 110 was already in the public conciousness, people continued to call it 110V.
115V comes about because the utility is allowed 5% tolerance for line loss, and 115 just sounds better than 114 (which is what 120 less 5% would be). 220V and 240V are the same story - Edison used 220V in his first DC systems, and GE used 240 when they introduced AC. 230V is a different animal - that's a 3 phase voltage in the US. It's the standard household voltage in the EU, so if you see something marked 230/240 it's probably intended for sale in the EU and US.John
Probably considered safe because DC lost voltage quickly the farther from the generator the lines went. IIRC there had to be a generator within a few miles of the consumer. AC on the other hand still had quite a bight many miles away.
When Tesla
"One ten, one eleven, whatever takes."
Unless is is 480
I read the explanation once but still don't get 277 volts from 2 legs of
3 phase.The nominal 120 was decided as the standard for north America but I'm not sure when. Voltages were 110, 115, 117 in different places some years ago.
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