TS keeps popping circuit

I have one 15-amp circuit serving my basement shop. Can I switch the breaker to 20 amps? TS is tripping when ripping 6/4 maple.

Reply to
Gramps' shop
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Depends on the wire gauge from the panel, if it is 14 forget about it.

Reply to
FrozenNorth

It is 12 gauge.

Reply to
Gramps' shop

As others have pointed out, it depends on the gauge of the wire. #12 wire will handle 20amps, but you need to make sure it's #12 all the way to the breaker.

With one 15amp breaker for your whole shop, I would be hesitant to put a

20amp breaker in and then run the saw plus a dust collector at the same time.

Sounds like a good excuse to run another circuit out there. :-)

Reply to
-MIKE-

You should be good then, 10 might be better, depending on many factors I cannot see from here.

Reply to
FrozenNorth

Hey, Froz

Come on over and take a look. Just as cold here in Wisconsin ?

Reply to
Gramps' shop

No passport, I cannot get into the US legally, and it would be a bitch of a drive. :-)

Reply to
FrozenNorth

Maple has sticky sap, and it doesn't improve with heat. Try cleaning the saw blade, maybe applying some wax, and if you have a rip blade, use that instead of a combination.

Reply to
whit3rd

From a long term prospective, you may wish to consider running a couple of new 20 amp circuits in your basement shop. With a saw motor the circuit usually goes with the initial high amp load when the motor starts. But as said if you are running a dust collection system and some other high load equipment, you may be safer with the higher amp circuits.

My work shop (part of my garage) has only one 20 amp circuit. That is the circuit the runs the garage door openner. It is a pain to have to plug my saw into that outlet that is in the ceiling. I hope to add a couple other 20 amp circuits in other areas ie. where I keep my work bench and one to the freezer which is also in the garage.

Reply to
Keith Nuttle

At least one more. I'd run a separate circuit just for the lights. It sucks having the lights go out at the same time the table saw stops, leaving you in the dark.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

+1 It's essentially the same as sticking a penny in the fuse box.
Reply to
krw

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Is it 240V? If the outlet the saw is plugged into is the only one on the circuit, it might be really easy to convert it to 240V. That'll help a lot more than going from 15A to 20A.

Reply to
krw

What gauge extension cord used if any?

Switching the circuit breaker at the box to a 20 amp, requires a wire change to 12 gauge.

Where is the breaker box, if in the basement run a new 20 amp circuit same cost as changing the wire and breaker.

Reply to
Markem

Of course, all of us who have suggested a new circuit are assuming there is room in the panel.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I wired my shop with outlets on alternating circuits, so I can plug the tool in one outlet and a vac into the adjacent outlet. They're on opposite sides of the box, too. Lighting is also on separate circuits.

Reply to
krw

If you do run new circuits, make 'em 240V. The tools will appreciate it.

Reply to
krw

From experience that is an interesting question.

My table saw requires 20 amps to start the saw with a 1hp motor. There is a short cord on the motor that plugs into the switch at the front of the table. Over the period 40 years the cord from the switch to the wall became damaged, and I had to replace it. I struggled to find the right cord. I finally use a 14 gauge cord.

Why because every cord I could find was 14 gauge, and when I went to Menards, Lowes and a couple of other places where there were saws on display with 1 hp motors, they all had 14 gauge wire into the motor. usually just a couple of feet long.

We have all been giving advice that focused on the wire gauge and circuit. I don't believe the question was ever asked as to the size of the motor, and the start mechanism, ie capacitor start etc.

Both would have bearing in the size of the cord required.

Knowing the motor specs, it is possible that the saw is blowing the circuit not because the circuit is inadequate because there is some internal short in the system.

If it were me I would check the short possibility before I purchased a new cord or installed additional circuits. (Even though my original post jumped to the circuit solution.)

Reply to
Keith Nuttle

Even so, there are usually alternatives that aren't too difficult. Single breakers can be replaced with doubles and installing a sub-panel isn't usually all that difficult. If everything is sheetrocked, it'll be harder to run the wires than either solution above. If not, it's all pretty easy.

Reply to
krw

I made my own.

Not really. The OP asked if he could go from a 15A to a 20A breaker. To do that, 12GA wiring is required. It has nothing to do with the motor.

Larger wire is better, sure, but that wasn't what was asked.

Or too the saw is too far from the panel. Again, we were asked if the breaker could be increased from 15A to 20A.

He's only having problems with 8/4 maple, which tells me that there isn't anything wrong with the saw.

We're not talking about replacing the cord, rather the breaker (and, if necessary, the wiring). The best solution is to go to 240V but that takes a little more than was asked.

Reply to
krw

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