Hm, I've always done the opposite with 2-way switching. On the grounds that 'up is off' in general in the UK, when both are up (the nuture-intuitive way) or down the socket is off and if either is down or up the socket is on.
Illogical. Both down means two on switches. Confusing.
I prefer both the same, working together, on.
Not often needed, but sometimes. MR16 only means the pin-style fitting and not the voltage, anyway.
Hah; you've never seen a round pin plug filed to fit, then.
Controlled by the staff from outside?
Nah, you need a y-piece E27 and converters at each end.
I wish. PIR detectors. It's so much easier not to have to keep switching lights on and off, especially if you're using both hands to carry something. Plus if you forget to turn one off, you don't waste electricity.
Same here. I nearly bought an old cottage which had the original 1950s electrical installation, untouched since day one. 20A meter by the door, a light in the living room, one in the bedroom and one 15A socket. Apparently, the REC installed the lights as part of the connection fee, but sockets were charged extra. Many people didn't have a wall socket at all, just plugging their appliances into the lighting socket. Some show-offs had a dedicated 2A or 5A socket in the living room next to a shelf where the big old valve radio was sited.
+1 - mine are all on the home automation system.
I did connect up the switches too (they're all retractive switches, as the switch position doesn't store the on/off state). However, the switches are hardly ever used - pretty much only to turn off a light instantly rather than waiting for it to go off on its timer, if you know you won't need it again.
The MK fused round pin plugs (the only ones still manufactured AFAIK) use BS1362 fuses. I have had one or two much older makes which used BS646 fuses (also in clock points, although the later versions of those also switched to BS1362).
I don't want to bother doing that. I want it fully automated.
MR16 doesn't describe the lamp base - that's really GU 5.3 on MR16's. GU 5.3 (and similar GX 5.3, which is what most of the lampholders are) have a max voltage of 50V. There are some other 5.3mm pin bases which are rated up to 120V. I think you have to go up to 6.35mm pin bases before you find 240V ratings.
Confusing to me. I prefer an installation where if I put *every*
*single* *switch* in the up position, it's guaranteed that all the lights are turned off. If the power is off or the bulb is dead or the fitting is being replaced how do you know which is the matching switch that this one should be the opposite of?jgh
That is also true the way I do it. All the same = off. Therefore all up = off. Mind you if you have three switches that doesn't work right. Only all off would match.
Anyway does it really matter? It's very easy to change a lightbulb without putting your fingers anywhere near the light socket. Just like you don't turn off the main power to the consumer unit when you pull a fuse cartridge. You'd be putting the whole house off and have to reset all the clocks etc.
Indeed - what I didn't say, as it's obvious, that whenever both switches are in the same position they're off; when 'odd' they're on.
I've got three switches controlling my stairs lights, and the light is off when all three are in the up position.
^ ^ ^ off ^ ^ v on ^ v v off ^ v ^ on v v ^ off v v v on v ^ v off v ^ ^ on ^ ^ ^ off again.
jgh
013267540
There are only 10 types of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don't.
I was going to say something like that, but does the order matter in this case? And what's 013267540 mean?
Google for octal.
According to my graphic calculator, that's 2977632 in decimal, or 2D6F60 in hex, which makes a murky turquoise colour in RGB.
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