Burglar alarms and home security

Because of a recent burglary, I am going to install an alarm system in my single-family ranch home (no basement)that I reside in alone. The street is a quiet, family-oriented one (no loud cars, boom boxes, tough-looking guys of any age).

The considerations (aimed at burglar detection):

  1. A silent alarm so the cops might catch them in the act, vs. one that lights lights and beeps horns to scare them away (so they're free to strike elsewhere).

  1. A silent alarm that signals me if I'm home, so I could defend myself with a gun. If I'm away, the alarm could notify a next-door neighbor, a monitoring service, or the police. Police allow three false alarms a year before charging. (I believe there are systems that will call my cell phone, but it's always off and in my car, as it is used only for calls that I originate.)

  2. Beefed up barriers to entry, like locking bars for sliding doors, and high quality door locks. Problem is, if place looks too fortified, rather than being deterred burglars might see this as a sign that there is really valuable stuff inside and make a more determined (and damaging) effort to enter.

  1. How easy is it to defeat? The incoming AC power cable is enclosed in heavy duty metal conduit. But it would be easy to cut the flimsy pin that locks the cover over the meter and simply remove the meter. The cable TV and phone lines are not enclosed and are easy to cut and thereby defeat ordinary landlines or phone service via the cable company. This forces a battery-backup wireless system.

  2. Camera: Do they really do much good in deterring via their visible presence or in identifying a suspect that the cops catch?

Other measures (mainly home security):

  1. Lights on timers.
  2. Radio or TV on all the time.
  3. Shades for the garage window so nobody can see if a car is present. In my neighborhood, a car is a necessity as it's a mile to a major highway. So if the garage is empty, it's a excellent indication that the house is empty also.
  4. Locking bars on sliding doors.
  5. Double-key deadbolts on doors with glass panes, so burglars can't break a window and simply reach in and unlock a single-key deadbolt.
  6. Fake decals warning that a system is installed even if not true.

After writing the above, I came across a book on amazon.com called Essential Home Security: A Layman's Guide. Clicking on the Table of Contents link,

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it appears to address my concerns and many, many factors that I have not considered. I can't tell, however, if he addresses defeating the systems (consideration 4 above).

One of the reviewers was annoyed because the book was self-published (so what?) and because there were no specific product recommendations. The other reviews gave it high marks for at least pointing out vulnerabilities you may have.

Thanks for your comments/feedback.

R1

Reply to
Rebel1
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Rebel1 wrote in news:4f7f07eb$0$30079$ snipped-for-privacy@cv.net:

Noisy alarms will likely anger neighbors when they eventually false. False alarms also desensitize neighbors who then ignore them,or even file complaints.

Could you get home in time to DO anything? If you call the police to respond,you still have the problem of false alarms.

don't forget reinforced door jambs. often,burglars just use a crowbar to force open the door frame. a deadbolt is only as good as the door frame it slides into. First thing I did when I moved into my apartment was to install a big metal plate for the deadbolt,and long bolts into the stud beneath the flimsy trim piece of the frame. you can buy them at home improvement stores. if the door is wood,that is also a vulnerability,but they make reinforcing plates for them too. a wood door can split when hit hard,or pried upon with a crowbar.

it's pretty rare that a burglar will cut power/phone lines.

or on a timer.

or dark window tint.lets light in,but makes it too hard to see inside.

GOOD idea.

GOOD idea. I never liked having a window right next to a door.

Burglars are probably used to those.spot them a mile away.

the best defense is to make it too hard for them to get in,and to make them think someone is home so they don't try to get in. a major problem with an alarm is "who is going to respond to it?" Do you expect your neighbors to come over and check it out? there are monitored alarm systems that cost you a yearly subscription. I've heard not-good things about ADT.(I have no financial interest in any alarm company.)

you can get security cams that record to a (hidden)PC,and that you can even check your house out from online. they are good to see if you have outdoor prowlers,maybe peeking in windows to see if anyone's home. police have caught burglars who were recorded on security cams.

Reply to
Jim Yanik

Everybody in my neighborhood has alarms and everybody ignores it when a neighbor's alarm goes off as 99% are false alarms. If your alarm goes directly to the police you risk a fine for a 2nd false alarm and a third will cost you more. Neighbor was complaining that it cost her $500 last year.

Reply to
Frank

My experience with alarm systems is that I've installed 3 alarm systems over the past 13 years - twice at my office (which moved to a different location) and once in my home.

The systems at my office consisted of:

- motion detectors mounted in every room with either an outside door or a window (sensors mounted in the corner of the room where the walls meet the suspended ceiling)

- magnetic door sensors on each outside door

Wires were run from these sensors above the suspended ceiling to the control unit. I performed all this work myself. I bought the sensors and control unit (DSC 5500) from a local company that installs alarm systems.

The control unit is designed to call 2 different phone numbers upon sensing an alarm condition. I programmed the unit to call my home telephone and the home phone of another key person. I did not subscribe to an alarm monitoring company because there really isin't any need. If either myself or the other key person gets the phone call from the unit, we can use our own judgement as to how to proceed (either go to the office, call the police or someone else, etc).

In the 12 years that I've had the alarm at the office, there hasn't ever been a break-in, but there have been false-alarms caused by the motion sensors (this seemed to happen during very cold winter nights when the furnace would kick on and blow warm air over the windows, possibly causing the blinds to move around).

At my house, I only have sensors to detect the opening and closing of the front and back doors. Each door has a screen door and a "main" or proper door, and both doors are monitored independantly at both locations. I have the exact same DSC 5500 unit at home, and I have it programmed to call my work phone number (because when I'm not at home, the odds are I'm at work). I've never had a break-in at home, so that unit has never been in an alarm condition where it's called me at work. Door sensors are highly reliable and almost never give false alarms.

These alarm systems have keypads that you typically place near your entrance/exit door. When you enter the premises when the alarm is set, the keypad will emit a tone until you enter the code to deactivate the system. If you don't enter the code, it will enter the alarm state in

30 seconds (or what-ever time period you want).

A burglar would also hear the tone upon entering the premises, and he might decide to just turn around and leave because he knows that a response will happen within minutes.

The control unit can power a loud horn (that you can place anywhere, inside, outside, etc) if the unit enters the alarm mode. I don't have any such horn connected to either of my work or home systems.

My current office location has bars over vulnerable lower-floor glass windows, but my previous location had about 20 large windows (about 30 inches by 60 inches, double-pane) that had a protective membrane applied to the inner pane to effectively laminate the glass and make it very hard to penetrate. The membrane was slightly tinted to make it harder to see inside and block some solar heat radiation from entering the office. This lamination is available for residential windows and when I get new windows for my home I will probably put this lamination on them.

Over the past few years I've been experimenting with cameras (internet connected "IP" cameras) at home and the office. I have one such camera on my front porch looking out onto the street. I can program the camera to monitor the image and can define specific zones to sense any motion in those zones, and it will send me an e-mail with the picture showing what-ever is moving in the triggered zone. I therefor have images of vehicles driving in front of my house, people walking up to my door, etc.

I can also monitor a live video signal from that camera on my computer at work if I want. I have a similar camera watching my back door. That one has a microphone and speaker output (I can hear what's going on, and I can speak into a microphone connected to my computer at work and have it come out of the speakers connected to the back-door camera at home). All of this is done without needing to subscribe to any server or service. It's a direct internet connection between my office computer and the cameras at home.

There are "apps" available for iSlave and other smart phones if that's what you use vs a proper desktop computer. These apps are generally NOT free - but typically cost $5 and they have a more limited functionality vs what you can do on a PC.

For a home situation, it's very ergonomic to set up a home PC to perform the video recording from the camera. As long as the PC isin't stolen, you'll have a video record of who broke into your home (or who rang your door bell, etc).

My brother is somewhat of a video geek and he set up a real video camera over the entrance to my parents garage (this is a 2-car attached garage). There is also a bright light over this door. He set up a video recording system (I think it recorded directly to a DVD-RW) and it will just record over and over to the same disk each night.

One night it recorded some punk trying to break into the garage. The camera recorded a nice clear image of the punk. The door was well fortified so he didn't actually break in. My parents gave the video to the police. They gave a copy to the local newspaper who put up a link to the video on their website. After a few days the punk was identified and he was charged (with attempted break-in I think).

I'm probably going to buy something called a "trail-cam". It's a camera normally used by hunters and biologists that want to record pictures of animals in remote locations. These cameras have motion detectors and have very good night-vision capability, and have batteries that can last up to a year, and can take thousands of hi-rez pictures over that time.

I would mount this camera to a tree in my front yard where it has a view of the street. It would take pictures of any punks trolling around at night looking for cars with unlocked doors.

The bottom line is that you need to ask yourself:

1) How much of any of this am I capable of doing myself (running wires, buying specific devices, etc). Doing it yourself can save you a lot of $$$ and you end up with something very customized to your situation.

2) One basic question is -> does the alarm system call a monitoring service, or does it call you and/or any other appropriate person (friend, family member, neighbor, etc) during an alarm condition. The answer depends on (a) how much money you want to save, and (b) are there people you trust (and who is willing to take the responsibility, and who is likely to be able to come to your house when you're out of town).

I think it's overwhelmingly better to have "personal" response to an alarm made by a trusted person instead of a monitoring company.

You could have a reciprocal arrangement with a friend, familiy member or neighbor: Their alarm system can call you (as a backup contact) if your alarm system can call them (again they would be your backup contact).

I said earlier that if any sensor is triggered, that the keypad will emit a tone until the entry code is entered. This tone could be used to wake you up (if you're home and the sensor is triggered in the middle of the night). It is possible to place a second keypad in your bedroom (for example) so you would hear the tone at night.

As for me, I never set my alarm when I'm home. I have no such fear or expectation of having my home entered by an intruder during the evening or over-night hours. For one thing, any such attempted entry would probably wake me up, and second such an evening break-in attempt in my neighborhood (or even in my city) is just so rare to begin with.

Reply to
Home Guy

Hi, How about a good trained guard dog. No matter how good security shield you deploy, bad guys are always one step ahead of you. I have a live-in domestic helper and a professionally trained guard dog. Alarm system is very seldom armed.

Reply to
Tony Hwang

I should have added that there are a lot of deer in my area, and they trigger the motion sensor at the front of my garage that turns on a pair of floodlights. So I can't rely on motion sensors to distinguish between a car, deer, or people.

Lot sizes in my area are 100x200 ft.

Reply to
Rebel1

You go on and on ad naseum how perfect everything is in Canada. So why would you need an alarm system in Canada?

Reply to
George

Yes I do. And it is.

I see your point.

After 14 years of having alarm systems at two locations - and not a single attempted or actual break-in, I clearly don't have as much of a need for an alarm system as you do in the United States of Thievery.

Reply to
Home Guy

Rebel1 wrote in news:4f7f07eb$0$30079$ snipped-for-privacy@cv.net:

Having been in the security system business for the last 33 years I can give you several caveats:

1 A professional thief will get what he wants from your home with no real problems. The good news is it has to something very valuable for them to waste their time on. An alarm system will make them think long and hard before deciding to either attempt your place or the one done the street with no alarm system. 2 The cops take forever to respond in most alarm system activations. So my suggestion is the install an indoor siren. If you make the interior loud enough the amateurs burgulars will leave quickly. 3 Modern systems have battery backup that should be good for at least 72 hours without AC power. 4 Get a system that is centrally monitored. You will have the peace of mind that as soon as the system activates someone will be on duty to call the police. In the case of a false alarm while you are home, you can call them and give them your abort code which will stop them from dispatching the police or fire dept. I would add a cellular backup transmitter so that if the thieves cut the phone lines to your house, the signal will be sent to the central station anyway and the authorities will be dispatched. 5 Add at least 1 smoke detector to the system so if your home catches fire while you are away at least the fire dept. will respond, hopefully in time to prevent a total loss. 6 Connect all doors and operable windows to the system with magnetic sensors. I would also tamper the covers on the electrical and telephone panels so that the alarm would activate as soon as someone attempted to cut the power or phone lines. 7 Infrared motion detectors are a second line of defense in case the intruder gets past the door or window sensors somehow. If you have pets get a "dual-tech" style detector that is more resistant to false alarms from pets.

That pretty much covers the basics. I would contact a licensed alarm contractor to give you an estimate. At that point you can decide if you want to attempt the job yourself or let someone else do it. Make sure if you hire someone that they are bonded and have undergone a background check.

Hope this helps. Steve

Reply to
Steve

Rebel1 wrote in news:4f7f07eb$0$30079$ snipped-for-privacy@cv.net:

[snip discussion of alternatives]

You left out the most obvious -- and most effective -- burglary deterrent there is: a dog. If they hear a barking dog inside a house, most burglars will just go somewhere else. They're looking for quick and easy pickings, not a hassle.

My wife and I are partial to Australian Shepherds, but herding dogs of nearly any breed are ideal for this purpose: they've been bred to alert, vigorously, to the presence of intruders, yet be gentle with their flock. This makes them excellent family dogs: they'll be friendly and playful with you [and your family, should your current situation of living alone ever change], but bark like the devil if a stranger comes to your door.

Reply to
Doug Miller

As for defeating the system - put OBVIOUS phone and cable connections

- but actually dummies, where they would be expected, and hide the real ones. A cellular backup is almost standard equipment now on monitored systems - and the whole system is set up to run off a backup battery in case of power disconnect.

Reply to
clare

It's always best to know about them BEFORE they get in.

Perimeter detection is better than interior motion detectors. If you carry a smart phone (which you do not) 2 way communication is available - you get to see if anything is out of the ordinary on your cameras, and speak to the house.

You can even answer the doorebell from across the world. If the doorbell rings, your phone notifies you, and you can see who is at the door. If they look suspicious you can tell them they've got 30 seconds before you come out guns blazing, or whatever.

Reply to
clare

I left Ontario(used to live in Scarboro) about this time of the year

1970. I never looked back. U.S. has lot more population than Canada. A fact to keep in mind when comparing two neighbors. Ontario the province soon to be have not place.
Reply to
Tony Hwang

If you have false alarms something is wrong with your system, or your residents - and a $500 charge for the false alarms would be much better spent fixing the system.

Reply to
clare

any breed are

presence of intruders,

they'll be friendly and

alone ever change],

Hi, I just lost our 10 yo Aussie shepherds. One of best dogs we had. It developed a severe case of diabetes, went blind last year and quit eating couple weeks ago. We had to have him put down. We already have replacement in the house. After, I found out this breed is prone to diabetes due to it's genetics. Don't let your dog go over weight, that is warning sign.

Reply to
Tony Hwang

My brother's vacation home/trailer was a target for theives until he installed an X10 alarm system with cameras and PC recorder - and a set of Fiamm air horms - all run off a good UPS system so it works even 8 hours after the power is disconnected.

One miscreant left a patch of denim with better than a square inch of skin/flesh from his shin on the "downspoout re-enforcement" at the back corner of the trailer when he headed for the bush when the flood-lights came on and blinded him.

That was the last episode - on a cold stormy winter night when the power was out in the whole area and the guy must have figured the "obvious" alarm system would be useless.

The neighbours know if they hear the air horn something untoward is going on at the place on the bend - and they are often there, cell phone in hand, by the time my brother is online checking out the cameras. The last time the neighbour had the police called within minutes. Didn't get the guy, but he spent a long cold (and apparently painfull) night in the bush, because the cops were around for quite some time waiting for him to come out. When my brother got there next morning he found tracks leading from the bush to a house down the way that is known to be trouble - no proof it was him, but apparently all his bad-news buddies now know it's not worth the effort.

Reply to
clare

Hey, Canada's not PERFECT, but you are a lot less likely to get shot

- and having an alarm makes it less likely you will be broken into - and more likely that IF broken into the theif will leave empty-handed

- and do less damage. I've installed a good half dozen alarm systems over the years - plus alarms on several vehicles. The alarm at the shop caught the guy who had been breaking into auto repair shops in the area the FIRST NIGHT it was in operation - and before he even got the door open. He was still trying to pry open the (un-used, bolted) rear door of the shop when the cops responded to the glass breakage detector that went off when he drove over the service bell hose in front of the shop that the boss had forgoten to shut off when he left the shop!!! They got there, did their walk-around, and caught the guy busy with his crowbar.

Reply to
clare

You forgot the "dual mode" glass breakage detectors. Trigger the alarm BEFORE they actually get inside if possible.

Reply to
clare

You'll get better answers in alt.security.alarms

its filled with professional installers.

Reply to
G. Morgan

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Sorry to read about your b/i. I know how it feels.

I don't think fake stickers are a bad idea at all.

A good insurance policy is a good idea too. If you have one that replaces stolen items at present value even better. You have to do a cost benefit analysis but for me having a good policy paid off well.

I had security doors installed. They really don't look that bad, or they didn't on my old house. Some say they are a hazard because they can be difficult to escape in case of a fire. It's something to consider.

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That way the burglars can't walk right out the front door with your stuff. They usually go with the path of least resistance. My neighbor got a little upset when I put mine in but too bad. They don't cost that much and he can buy his own if he doesn't like it.

I lived in a real high crime area (Abq NM) and after that we never got burgled again.

Reply to
gonjah

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