I'm using 5A for lighting, and 2A for 100V line speakers.
I appreciate that not everyone has a 100V line speaker installation in their house.
Owain
I'm using 5A for lighting, and 2A for 100V line speakers.
I appreciate that not everyone has a 100V line speaker installation in their house.
Owain
Much safer, no trip hazard
I've got an adapter like that, my son was using it only two years ago in his student digs. I should still have it somewhere.
I used to use it 50 years ago to use the enlarger and safelight in the cupboard under the stairs (which we called "the pantry")
did you really keep the bread there?
Th "round pin" bit was a bit of a misdirection and I believe only intended to indicate the availability of "old" style adaptors such as flex to BC socket etc.
BS 546 : 1950 was also last tweaked in 1988 so they are still covered by a BS IIUC.
I often fit the small 2A ones for dedicated lighting points - handy when building a kitchen since you can test and "finish" the fixed wiring before all the cabinets are in place, and the under cabinet lighting is mounted.
I'm sure I remember one of those which used to appear when my dad got the Christmas lights out. It might even have included a switch for the two outlets.
Chris
And they *are* BS approved - BS546.
jgh
Is anything "BS approved"? more likely built/made to comply with BS546
Yes, I saw that and went on to look for a B22d to GY6.35 (what they called MR16) adapter, having made some myself in the past, but they didn't have any.
In my case, I was converting a multi-lamp pendent to take 12V halogen capsules.
I have used those, and clock points for this purpose in the past.
Nowadays, I use the Klik plugs and sockets, usually mounted on a horizontally orientated architave back box, which are easily hidden when positioned immediately above or below the cupboards.
They're not common, but you can still buy them. For example:
My previous house was fitted with new ones in about 1995. They are no use for power sockets (not enough current), but they are fine for lights. We had a bunch of free-standing lights plugged in, and they were all controlled by a lightswitch by the door. (Yes, you /can/ do this with
13-amp sockets, but it's much easier to distinguish the light sockets and the power sockets this way.)
Also, 12 or 24 Volt circuits in boats are often done with round pin.
Robert
Not for 1.39 it won't.
You can get different voltage MR16s, but I don't think there are many about that aren't 12V. I have however seen DC and AC MR16s...
My father (born 1916) told be that at one time there was a different meter for lighting (bayonette and 5 amp sockets) and heating (15 Amp) sockets. They were charged at different prices per kWhr.
Lighting was more expensive per kWhr.
Robert
The problem was the lack of fuse. But the shape of the pins? There was no need to change to square.
Is that something to do with a postie's route?
I think last time I needed some I had a look for the klik ones and architrave boxes etc, but could not find anything locally so went with the round pin. Positioned just above a wall unit you can't see them anyway I found, so the full size face plate did not matter too much.
How often do you swing from your ceiling?
Presumably anyone with any sense rewired or got adaptors.
No it did not, it said round pin era electrics.
NT
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.