Changing Alarm Panel

Nov 23, 2006 2 Replies

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TheScullster 19 years ago

Hi all

The remote keypad connected to my old Pyronix panel is on the way out. I can get a replacement keypad, but the cost is close to £40. As the panel is over 10 years old I am considering replacing it with a model that supports 2 remote keypads which I will need in the not-too-distant.

The questions:

Can the group recommend a suitable reliable decent quality panel for a wired system in 4 bed house? Currently it has 4 zones i.e. 4 passives which will shortly increase to 5 (but would like further capacity upto say 8 zones total). Also one passive is now entry/exit - when I add the fifth passive this will also be e/e. Are all passives compatible with all panels? When I change the panel, how do I stop the bell box from sounding (I believe they have a backup battery which will power the siren once the panel power is cut).

Thanks in anticipation

Phil

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AJ 19 years ago

Texecom Premier

Give or take. Total power from all passives is unlikely to be a problem with only 4. There are different ways to wire them up, though (simple 2 or 4 wire; EOL-resistors etc. etc)

Some magic engineering mode on the bell box, or, more likely, disconnec then quickly connect a 12v battery to it.

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fred 19 years ago

In article , TheScullster writes

I've installed a Scantronic 9651 and found it good value and easy to set up. It's a steel cased remote unit with room for a large battery and easy wiring. Can be used with up to 4 remotes and 8 zones can be programmed any way you like including delayed after main entry zone is triggered but otherwise instant so fine to have some passives on delayed.

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spare capacity is a little light as I like to use multiple internal & external sounders but this can be overcome by feeding these direct from the battery via separate fuses. It is entry level in their 9x5x range but uber cheap, CPC have it for 45quid + vat (inc 1 remote) but another 42+vat for extra remotes, go figure. Other panels in the range may suit you better.

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(no pics).

Uncommitted relay outputs are the norm so yes.

Best is engineer mode to stop other sounders tripping, then: Insert ear plugs, remove sounder cover, disconnect sounder battery, remove sounder supply feed (& insulate).

Tip - Do program the new panel to allow user reset after trip/tamper/mains failure rather than that engineer reset nonsense.

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