Debug advice Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 stopped refrigerating

Page 9 of 10  
On 7/13/2016 2:02 AM, Danny D. wrote:

When you go back and answer my question, I'll consider answer yours.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 07:53:43 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

As you know, I don't read every thread here. I just read the threads that I author.
And I respond to EVERY valid question and point. You know this because I have done this for years.
I just went (again) through each of the two dozen posts you made in this thread, and I don't see any suggestion that I didn't already do on my own, nor any question that is unanswered.
Since I prove everything I say, below are the two dozen posts from you in this thread.
a. Where is a suggestion that I didn't try? b. Where is there a question I didn't answer? =====================================================================On 7/8/2016 7:22 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Sounds just exactly like a bad start relay on the compressor. This is considered "sealed system". If you have the owners manual, see how long is the sealed system warranty. Probably five years, so you're out of warranty.
If it's out of warranty, are you any good with electrical repairs? Please write back, and we'll continue the discussion. =====================================================================On 7/8/2016 8:31 PM, tom wrote:

You are so, so right. The compressor will eventually over heat and might burn out.
Thank you, well said. =====================================================================On 7/8/2016 8:49 PM, Danny D. wrote:

CY: Glad to be some help. Any time (well, figuratively speaking).

CY: The big black thing in the back is a compressor.

CY: No, the motor and compressor are inside. The start relay (and some have a relay and a capacitor) outside the sealed unit. The relay and cap should never contact refrigerant. That said, the company probably considers the relay and cap to be part of the sealed system.

CY: Yes. Though, it's often not cost effective. Requires refrigerant pump, brazing, electrical, and more than that. Takes about three hours.

CY: The black sealed unit contains electric windings for the motor. The unit keeps trying to start the compressor. Amp draw, turns the electric watts into heat.

CY: Yes, that combination amp and temp safety switch is what gives you the repeated hum click.

CY: When the refrig is running, warm. They should NEVER get cold.

CY: The compressor has two windings. Start, and run. The relay supplies power to the start winding, and then later power to the run winding.

CY: I'm guessing it will do exactly the same hum click routine. It's late on the east coast, I'm going to bed. =====================================================================On 7/8/2016 8:49 PM, Danny D. wrote:

As a Kenmore, you may be able to buy OEM parts, but if it were my unit, I'd use a universal hard start kit. Seeing as how I carry them in my vehicle and use the universal kits at work. =====================================================================On 7/8/2016 9:26 PM, Danny D. wrote:

To keep these parts from coming off.
Pull straight out from compressor. Might need to pry with slotted screw driver. Wiggle them back and forth while pulling. =====================================================================On 7/8/2016 10:40 PM, Danny D. wrote:

No. Sorry, but that takes a lot of skills that the average HO does not have. =====================================================================On 7/9/2016 1:27 AM, Danny D. wrote:

d) the suggestion Stormy gave yesterday.
I've never tested a relay. Just replace, and see if the unit comes back to life.
You may also answer my question, if you wish. The one I asked yesterday. =====================================================================On 7/9/2016 12:29 PM, Danny D. wrote:

And, won't prevent you from being a Mormon. =====================================================================On 7/9/2016 12:49 PM, Danny D. wrote:

CY: Yes, many Italians are Mormons.

CY: She'll love it!

CY: Not since 1890. =====================================================================On 7/9/2016 12:47 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Yes. I can. Totally what I diagnosed yesterday. =====================================================================On 7/9/2016 6:50 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Danny, are my posts making it through your server? =====================================================================On 7/9/2016 6:48 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Danny, are my posts making it to you, through your server? You've not answered my question. And you're going through a lot of bother which isn't really needed.
But, did you ever do any thing simple?
I leave you to your complications. =====================================================================On 7/9/2016 6:48 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Danny, are my posts making it to you, through your server? You've not answered my question. And you're going through a lot of bother which isn't really needed. But, did you ever do any thing simple? I leave you to your complications. =====================================================================On 7/12/2016 3:22 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Pump out all the refrigerant. Saw the top off the compressor. After the inspection, weld the compressor using a gas tight "bead" of weld. Replace the refrigerant.
No problem for you, right? =====================================================================On 7/12/2016 5:26 PM, tom wrote:

Don't bother. I suggested that a week ago, and Danny totally ignored me. And ignored my hints and reminders.
=====================================================================On 7/12/2016 7:08 PM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:

Think I remember at least one reminder. Well, moot point. He's gone so far afield on so many directions, there's no contacting him, now. =====================================================================On 7/12/2016 10:57 PM, Danny D. wrote:

You never answered my question, and I never made any suggestions what to do. Other than suggesting you answer my question so we can move on. =====================================================================On 7/12/2016 10:47 PM, Danny D. wrote:

"not found" is what the web page says. =====================================================================On 7/12/2016 10:47 PM, Danny D. wrote:

I added a g to the end of the URL, and got a picture. I can't comment on that, until you answer my question. =====================================================================On 7/12/2016 11:21 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Coincidence. I'm on the east coast, and spend a bit of time on the computer in the evenings.
What question? I only asked twice. =====================================================================On 7/13/2016 12:56 AM, Danny D. wrote:

If you'd done what I said, and played along, this could have been fixed last week. Hope you are enjoying your self.
=====================================================================On 7/13/2016 1:09 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Yes, it's obvious that you don't see. =====================================================================On 7/13/2016 10:00 PM, Danny D. wrote:

When you run into a problem, you can either do things differently, or force harder, using the technique which has failed up to that point.
I offered you (repeatedly) a chance to do differently, and you ignored me repeatedly. This post is an example of trying to force your failing techniques even harder, and trying to force me to participate with your failings. I'll have you know, that I viewed NONE of the links, and barely read your text.
By way of references, I've been working on domstic refrigerators for over 10 years. I'm fairly sure that if you'd done what I said, it would have been fixed several days ago. I'm also fairly sure I know why your compressor keeps going off. =====================================================================On 7/14/2016 2:01 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Nope. And, I asked twice. =====================================================================On 7/14/2016 2:01 PM, Danny D. wrote:

It's under this header, and also under subject line of "Debug advice, and a question for Danny D". =====================================================================On 7/13/2016 2:02 AM, Danny D. wrote:

When you go back and answer my question, I'll consider answer yours. ==========================================================================================================================================
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 7/14/2016 9:10 PM, Danny D. wrote:

I saw it three times. It was (is) a VERY simple question, and asks for a VERY simple answer.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 7/14/2016 9:10 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Since you appear to think I know all about your posting style, I must presume that you there fore know all about mine. I like a good trim text job. Leave enough text so we know the question that goes with the reply. But, sending a dozen or so quoted replies back through the list is really bad manners.
With your simple answer to my simple question, please do a reasonable text trim. Thank you.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 7/13/2016 1:51 AM, tom wrote:

Please realize that Danny D claims to answer all questions, but usually ignores the important questions, even when asked several times. Danny D appears to pick and choose what he sees, and what he does. Even though he says I've helped diagnose a couple of problems for him over the years, he's lost my help on this refrig issue. I can see a couple things that may very well be big problems (and some simple things he can do). But, not until he goes back and answers the questions I've asked two or three times.
"for the last time" is a very wise thing to write. I hope you keep your own word, and stop feeding into this guy's analysis pyralysis.
If it had been my refrigerator, it would have been fixed and running, long time ago. Danny D doesn't appear to want it fixed, he's just doing break down, analysis, flow charts, web pictures, and videos.
Why spend any more time on a guy who's not serious? I'm to the point where I glance at and delete the posts with little attention to what he's playing with.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 07:52:43 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

There are pictures galore of me not only dusting off the compressor coils, but also blowing 100psi compressed air, and even a story about how my sister saw all the dust that came out streamed across the kitchen floor for more than 10 feet.
There are also pictures of the coils very clean and they aren't and never were the problem, simply because dusty coils can not cause a compressor not to start. They can cause a compressor to work harder and overheat (simply because they're not cooling - but they can't possibly cause a compressor not to start).
As for picking and choosing, I read *all* posts in the threads that I author, and I respond to all valid posts in the threads I author.
I have been doing this for years in this newsgroup, so you know this. I also do not respond to threads that I don't author, which also you should know by now (simply becuase I have almost never done it).
The only reason I even saw this thread is that SM said that he asked a question and I tried to find what the heck he was talking about.
I still haven't found the question he says is unanswered, and even more importantly, I still haven't found any suggestion from him that isn't what I already did long ago.
Here are all the posts from him in that thread - none of which contain an unanswered question or an untried suggestion. =====================================================================On 7/8/2016 7:22 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Sounds just exactly like a bad start relay on the compressor. This is considered "sealed system". If you have the owners manual, see how long is the sealed system warranty. Probably five years, so you're out of warranty.
If it's out of warranty, are you any good with electrical repairs? Please write back, and we'll continue the discussion. =====================================================================On 7/8/2016 8:31 PM, tom wrote:

You are so, so right. The compressor will eventually over heat and might burn out.
Thank you, well said. =====================================================================On 7/8/2016 8:49 PM, Danny D. wrote:

CY: Glad to be some help. Any time (well, figuratively speaking).

CY: The big black thing in the back is a compressor.

CY: No, the motor and compressor are inside. The start relay (and some have a relay and a capacitor) outside the sealed unit. The relay and cap should never contact refrigerant. That said, the company probably considers the relay and cap to be part of the sealed system.

CY: Yes. Though, it's often not cost effective. Requires refrigerant pump, brazing, electrical, and more than that. Takes about three hours.

CY: The black sealed unit contains electric windings for the motor. The unit keeps trying to start the compressor. Amp draw, turns the electric watts into heat.

CY: Yes, that combination amp and temp safety switch is what gives you the repeated hum click.

CY: When the refrig is running, warm. They should NEVER get cold.

CY: The compressor has two windings. Start, and run. The relay supplies power to the start winding, and then later power to the run winding.

CY: I'm guessing it will do exactly the same hum click routine. It's late on the east coast, I'm going to bed. =====================================================================On 7/8/2016 8:49 PM, Danny D. wrote:

As a Kenmore, you may be able to buy OEM parts, but if it were my unit, I'd use a universal hard start kit. Seeing as how I carry them in my vehicle and use the universal kits at work. =====================================================================On 7/8/2016 9:26 PM, Danny D. wrote:

To keep these parts from coming off.
Pull straight out from compressor. Might need to pry with slotted screw driver. Wiggle them back and forth while pulling. =====================================================================On 7/8/2016 10:40 PM, Danny D. wrote:

No. Sorry, but that takes a lot of skills that the average HO does not have. =====================================================================On 7/9/2016 1:27 AM, Danny D. wrote:

d) the suggestion Stormy gave yesterday.
I've never tested a relay. Just replace, and see if the unit comes back to life.
You may also answer my question, if you wish. The one I asked yesterday. =====================================================================On 7/9/2016 12:29 PM, Danny D. wrote:

And, won't prevent you from being a Mormon. =====================================================================On 7/9/2016 12:49 PM, Danny D. wrote:

CY: Yes, many Italians are Mormons.

CY: She'll love it!

CY: Not since 1890. =====================================================================On 7/9/2016 12:47 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Yes. I can. Totally what I diagnosed yesterday. =====================================================================On 7/9/2016 6:50 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Danny, are my posts making it through your server? =====================================================================On 7/9/2016 6:48 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Danny, are my posts making it to you, through your server? You've not answered my question. And you're going through a lot of bother which isn't really needed.
But, did you ever do any thing simple?
I leave you to your complications. =====================================================================On 7/9/2016 6:48 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Danny, are my posts making it to you, through your server? You've not answered my question. And you're going through a lot of bother which isn't really needed. But, did you ever do any thing simple? I leave you to your complications. =====================================================================On 7/12/2016 3:22 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Pump out all the refrigerant. Saw the top off the compressor. After the inspection, weld the compressor using a gas tight "bead" of weld. Replace the refrigerant.
No problem for you, right? =====================================================================On 7/12/2016 5:26 PM, tom wrote:

Don't bother. I suggested that a week ago, and Danny totally ignored me. And ignored my hints and reminders.
=====================================================================On 7/12/2016 7:08 PM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:

Think I remember at least one reminder. Well, moot point. He's gone so far afield on so many directions, there's no contacting him, now. =====================================================================On 7/12/2016 10:57 PM, Danny D. wrote:

You never answered my question, and I never made any suggestions what to do. Other than suggesting you answer my question so we can move on. =====================================================================On 7/12/2016 10:47 PM, Danny D. wrote:

"not found" is what the web page says. =====================================================================On 7/12/2016 10:47 PM, Danny D. wrote:

I added a g to the end of the URL, and got a picture. I can't comment on that, until you answer my question. =====================================================================On 7/12/2016 11:21 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Coincidence. I'm on the east coast, and spend a bit of time on the computer in the evenings.
What question? I only asked twice. =====================================================================On 7/13/2016 12:56 AM, Danny D. wrote:

If you'd done what I said, and played along, this could have been fixed last week. Hope you are enjoying your self.
=====================================================================On 7/13/2016 1:09 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Yes, it's obvious that you don't see. =====================================================================On 7/13/2016 10:00 PM, Danny D. wrote:

When you run into a problem, you can either do things differently, or force harder, using the technique which has failed up to that point.
I offered you (repeatedly) a chance to do differently, and you ignored me repeatedly. This post is an example of trying to force your failing techniques even harder, and trying to force me to participate with your failings. I'll have you know, that I viewed NONE of the links, and barely read your text.
By way of references, I've been working on domstic refrigerators for over 10 years. I'm fairly sure that if you'd done what I said, it would have been fixed several days ago. I'm also fairly sure I know why your compressor keeps going off. =====================================================================On 7/14/2016 2:01 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Nope. And, I asked twice. =====================================================================On 7/14/2016 2:01 PM, Danny D. wrote:

It's under this header, and also under subject line of "Debug advice, and a question for Danny D". =====================================================================On 7/13/2016 2:02 AM, Danny D. wrote:

When you go back and answer my question, I'll consider answer yours. ==========================================================================================================================================
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 7/14/2016 9:31 PM, Danny D. wrote:

I saw my (very simple) question three times. I'd sure appreciate a (very simple) answer.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 7/14/2016 9:31 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Since you appear to think I know all about your posting style, I must presume that you there fore know all about mine. I like a good trim text job. Leave enough text so we know the question that goes with the reply. But, sending a dozen or so quoted replies back through the list is really bad manners.
With your simple answer to my simple question, please do a reasonable text trim. Thank you.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 07:52:43 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

How can you say such a thing? You don't seem to be seriously trying to answer the two questions I asked you.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 7/14/2016 9:33 PM, Danny D. wrote:

I asked you a simple question. I'm waiting.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 07:52:43 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

To update this thread, I replaced the Kenmore with a Whirlpool long ago.
http://i.cubeupload.com/3yXHsM.jpg
When I opened the back of the Whirlpool, I was surprised to find a Kenmore build sheet inside. Everything is almost exactly the same in the Whirlpool as it was in the Kenmore, even down to the capacitor and relay.
Even the shelves and wire racks were the same.
So Whirlpool *is* Kenmore and Kenmore is Whirlpool.
The current in the Whirlpool was lower than the Kenmore though, at about 1.2 amps when the compressor was running (it was about 3 amps, as I recall, with the older fridge).
http://i.cubeupload.com/Wgo5LG.jpg
The new Whirlpool uses what appears to be a similar Embraco compressor which uses R134a but with a much lower LRA of 11.7 amps (as opposed to the 17 point something locked rotor amperage of the older Kenmore fridge).
http://i.cubeupload.com/vn8fws.jpg
I've already had a service call, because the Whirlpool fridge is *supposed* to keep to between 37 and 40 degrees F with the freezer between 10 and 0 degrees F, but the thing is about 5 to 10 degrees F too warm when both settings are in the minimum position.
http://i.cubeupload.com/3UkX69.jpg
Funny thing, when you put the *freezer* at the minimum setting, the *fridge* gets more air through the vent at top left (in this side-by-side refrigerator/freezer combination). That's because lowering the temperature in the freezer simply makes the vent open more of the fan air to the refrigerator.
http://i.cubeupload.com/3yXHsM.jpg
It's confusing, and it's counterintuitive that when you set the freezer to colder, the refrigerator gets *less* air, hence it's warmer. I don't know what changes when you set the refrigerator colder though.
This is all I think I know: 1. The compressor only runs at one speed. 2. Therefore the compressor is either on, or it's off. 3. There is a condenser fan on the bottom of the refrigerator. 4. That condenser fan also only has one speed. 5. There is a fan in the back of the freezer about mid way up. 6. That fan also has only one speed. 7. There is no fan in the refrigerator. 8. The refrigerator has no coils and has no fans. 9. The evaporator coils are only in the back of the freezer. 10. So the freezer is what cools the refrigerator. 11. That's why lowering the freezer temperature raises the refrig temperature (according to the service guy anyway). 12. The freezer dial apparently only controls the louvers of the air that is blow by the freezer fan from the freezer to the refrigerator. 13. I have no idea what the refrigerator dial does.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/5/2016 9:54 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Don't bet money on that. Kenmore can also be Electrolux (formerly Frigidaire) LG, Samsung, and just about any other appliance manufacturer. http://www.appliance411.com/purchase/sears.shtml
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 5 Aug 2016 22:18:12 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Thanks for that update.
The funny thing is, just as we dropped Netflix on principle, and just as I dropped Sears Craftsman (Poulan) chain saws on principle, I told my wife we'd get any fridge other than a Kenmore, on principle.
My point is supply and demand pressure.
If everyone stopped buying products that prematurely fail, they'd have a downward pressure on poor reliability.
Yet, the moment I opened up the bottom of the new Whirlpool fridge, a Kenmore build sheet popped out.
The only thing different is the name plate. Sigh.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
says...

Have not checked into it in a long time, but isn't Kenmore just the name put on by Sears as Sears does not really make anything ? They could be made by anyone.
Whirlpool is the name of a company that actually makes things. They also have the Roper (think that is the one) line that is an economy line.
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/5/2016 9:54 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Short term I can see that, especially if just loaded up or in very ho weather. The temperatures should be able to balance where you want them, though it may take 24 hours or so.
The compressor has a limited capacity so if you extract more heat from the freezer, it will take less from the refrigerator section. One the freezer is at the desired temperature the fridge section should be able to catch up.
Many new units have dual systems. My Samsung keep each setting, freezer, refrigerator, center drawer at the exact set temperature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 5 Aug 2016 22:34:50 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

We wanted a KISS refrigerator, just as we want a KISS washing machine and dryer.
I remember when I was in college, we used the washing machines and dryers in the laundry room of the dorm, where they pretty much had a slot for quarters and a button for on and off (and maybe a water temperature settings).
We wanted a refrigerator that was simple. The only rule was that we would NOT reward Kenmore by buying another Kenmore for the rest of our lives. That's a principle thing.
However, because of the layout of the kitchen, we were stuck with the side-by-side doors so we ended up with a frige of the same type as the old.
We never expected it to be *exactly* the same though, since we bought online and had it delivered. So we didn't realize that it was exactly the same until it was delivered, and even then, until I took the backplate off, I hadn't realized everything was exactly the same inside also.
Sigh. Fooled me they did.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 23:22:01 -0000 (UTC), Danny D. wrote:

To update this thread, I replaced the Kenmore with a Whirlpool long ago.
http://i.cubeupload.com/3yXHsM.jpg
When I opened the back of the Whirlpool, I was surprised to find a Kenmore build sheet inside. Everything is almost exactly the same in the Whirlpool as it was in the Kenmore, even down to the capacitor and relay.
Even the shelves and wire racks were the same.
So Whirlpool *is* Kenmore and Kenmore is Whirlpool.
The current in the Whirlpool was lower than the Kenmore though, at about 1.2 amps when the compressor was running (it was about 3 amps, as I recall, with the older fridge).
http://i.cubeupload.com/Wgo5LG.jpg
The new Whirlpool uses what appears to be a similar Embraco compressor which uses R134a but with a much lower LRA of 11.7 amps (as opposed to the 17 point something locked rotor amperage of the older Kenmore fridge).
http://i.cubeupload.com/vn8fws.jpg
I've already had a service call, because the Whirlpool fridge is *supposed* to keep to between 37 and 40 degrees F with the freezer between 10 and 0 degrees F, but the thing is about 5 to 10 degrees F too warm when both settings are in the minimum position.
http://i.cubeupload.com/3UkX69.jpg
Funny thing, when you put the *freezer* at the minimum setting, the *fridge* gets more air through the vent at top left (in this side-by-side refrigerator/freezer combination). That's because lowering the temperature in the freezer simply makes the vent open more of the fan air to the refrigerator.
http://i.cubeupload.com/3yXHsM.jpg
It's confusing, and it's counterintuitive that when you set the freezer to colder, the refrigerator gets *less* air, hence it's warmer. I don't know what changes when you set the refrigerator colder though.
This is all I think I know: 1. The compressor only runs at one speed. 2. Therefore the compressor is either on, or it's off. 3. There is a condenser fan on the bottom of the refrigerator. 4. That condenser fan also only has one speed. 5. There is a fan in the back of the freezer about mid way up. 6. That fan also has only one speed. 7. There is no fan in the refrigerator. 8. The refrigerator has no coils and has no fans. 9. The evaporator coils are only in the back of the freezer. 10. So the freezer is what cools the refrigerator. 11. That's why lowering the freezer temperature raises the refrig temperature (according to the service guy anyway). 12. The freezer dial apparently only controls the louvers of the air that is blow by the freezer fan from the freezer to the refrigerator. 13. I have no idea what the refrigerator dial does.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On the inside of the refrig in the freezer compartment there will be a panel that can be removed. Once removed, you will see the evaporator coils. If they are caked with ice, that is the problem. They are supposed to be ice-free, where the accumulated frost is melted during the defrost cycle. If the coils are solid with ice, the system can no longer cool. There are three possible problems, listed here in order of likelihood:
1 Defrost thermostat has failed. This is a ten dollar part you can replace yourself easily.
2 Defrost heater has failed. This part is around $15-20 on the internet, plus shipping. It is easy to replace.
3 Defrost timer has failed. This is more complicated and depends a LOT on the design of the refrigerator.
You can learn all about this by going to google with the following search string :
Kenmore refrigerator doesn't cool.
There will be links there describing possible solutions, videos showing how to do the repair, and sources for buying the parts......
It ain't rocket surgery, but it does take a bit of self-education......
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 05 Aug 2016 21:30:25 -0500, Mike Jones wrote:

It must defrost on its own because I don't see any settings or buttons for the defrost cycle.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Danny D. wrote:

NO. Kenmore makes NOTHING, Whirlpool, Samsung etc build for Kenmore and put the Kenmore name on it.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.