Debug advice Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 stopped refrigerating

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On 7/12/2016 11:21 PM, Danny D. wrote:

spend a bit of time on the computer in the evenings.
What question? I only asked twice.
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Danny D. wrote:

You should be able to get a replacement start cap for MUCH less than $100, and just bypass the starting relay. You will hear instantly if the compressor starts. If it does, the compressor is OK, and the only piece left is the relay. Some time ago I got a run cap from a refrigeration supply for $6. I expected it to be more.
And, if the compressor does not start with the new cap and the relay bypassed, then you can be fairly sure the compressor cannot be salvaged.
Jon
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On Tue, 12 Jul 2016 17:23:25 -0500, Jon Elson wrote:

Funny thing is that the Sears country-wide prices are *far* (far!) lower than the prices at the local appliance shops here in the Silicon Valley!
http://i.cubeupload.com/5z2J05.gif
The run cap is $17.39 in that Sears USA parts diagram, but at the local San Jose parts stores, it was between $45 and $65 for those who had it in stock.
Interestingly, the relay is $45.17 in that Sears US diagram, and it was about $60 to $75 at the local parts stores that had it in stock.
Meanwhile, the Supco RC0410 1/4-to-1/3 HP 120VAC "3n1 Start" Solid State Relay Overload Start Capacitor Combination should be around $10, but I paid $29.50 for it at the local Appliance Parts Store. http://i.cubeupload.com/VD0haS.jp

What do you make of this? a. The first time I plugged in the RC0410, the compressor started! b. After about two minutes, I wanted to show teh wife, and, in her presence, the second time I plugged it in, it overheated and turned off.
http://i.cubeupload.com/ja5XaK.jpg

Heh heh. It "is" more. In San Jose at least. I paid $29.50 for it today.

start the second time?
I'll try to get a video of this - but I am waiting for it to cool down (and for the wife to go to bed so she doesn't influence the test results).
http://i.cubeupload.com/8YQ1wK.jpg
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On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 07:44:12 -0700, Oren wrote:

Hi Oren,
I guess that means you're actually looking at the pictures!
We know the cap is needed, based on that, so, it makes sense that the test jig without the cap wouldn't ever have worked.
This morning it wouldn't start, even though it was cool, so I started wondering if the power coming out of the refrigerator cord was being shunted in some other circuit, since the hard-start cap was hooked to the same power as the rest of the refrigerator:
http://i.cubeupload.com/62T0dG.jpg
To give the compressor its own dedicated power, I created a test cord with alligator clamps so that I could have a dedicated power for the compressor.
Note in this picture the open refrigerator leads:
http://i.cubeupload.com/VsCyzM.jpg
But, nothing seems to have changed by giving the compressor its own dedicated wall outlet:
http://i.cubeupload.com/Dio9Uz.jpg
When it works (which right now is about 1 out of 10 times), it draws only a couple of amps, but when it fails (which is most of the time), it draws a whopping 13.5 amps!
http://i.cubeupload.com/Wo2RvQ.jpg
I am trying to understand what makes the compressor start sometimes, and what makes it not start most of the time, all under essentially the same conditions.
To debug what's going on, I need to CHANGE some condition. But what condition can I change that will lead me to a diagnosis of what's really wrong?
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On 2016-07-13 2:03 PM, Danny D. wrote:

new fridge, that costs more money. If the light comes on inside when you open the door the power works, why look beyond that?
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On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 14:19:30 -0400, FrozenNorth wrote:

Hmmm... I'm confused.
The cap "is" replaced. It's replaced by the 3in1 unit.
Or do I misunderstand the advice?
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On Tuesday, July 12, 2016 at 3:31:24 PM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:

None of that really matters. You still have choice of either a new fridge or A which is spend $150 to find out it's hosed, very likely followed by B, which is to spend $500+ to fix it.
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On Tue, 12 Jul 2016 13:34:29 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote:

You should never have written that, because my wife happened to ask me what I was doing, and she looked at your post, and pointed at me, saying "See! I *told* you we needed a new frig!"
:)
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1) you're obsessive-compulsive
2) you're extremely boring
3) you won't take a hint even when it's delivered with a sledgehammer
4) you need help from a mental health professional
5) you need a new fridge
6) if she hasn't already, your latest wife is about to divorce you
HTH. HAND.
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On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 21:47:59 +0100, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

:)
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My guess is the overload / start relay on the side of the compressor. A quick check is to remove it and listen to it while you shake it. If it rattles, it is bad. These are around $45 from Sears, may be cheaper if you prowl around ebay. You can get the part numbers from Sears. It could also be the start / run capacitor... around $10 for the part. But I would be more inclined to think the relay. That is what went out on mine.
On Fri, 08 Jul 2016 23:22:01 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

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On 12 Jul 2016 18:02:12 GMT, Nobody Here wrote:

I hooked 120 VAC to the COMMON (hot) and RUN (neutral) and then jumped, with a screwdriver, the START (neutral) but that didn't start the compressor.
I did the same thing, essentially, with the 12uF capacitor hooked in series with the RUN, and it didn't start.
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I would connect Neutral to the Common and Line to the Run. Connect the Run capacitor from Run to Start. Apply power and momentary short the capacitor. See if that does anything.
You might give the can a few good wacks with a hammer in case it is just something jammed in the pump.
Do you know anyone that does automotive AC work? They would have most of what is needed to change out the compressor sans a good torch and sil-fos brazing rod.
Or wait for a good appliance sale.
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On Tue, 12 Jul 2016 16:04:12 -0400, tom wrote:

Googling for how to "unlock a compressor", I found mention of a "hard start kit", which some people say is the same as a "3n1", but others say they're different: http://appliantology.org/topic/40875-3-1-start-kit-fire-danger-do-techs-use-them-regularly/
Calling local appliance stores, they say they're the same thing (but that reference above says they're not the same thing).
The local appliance store has a Supco RC0410 "hard start kit" in stock: http://www.azpartsmaster.com/Products/SUPCO-RC0410-Refrigerator-Compressor-Hard-Start-Kit__B95530.aspx
Amazon also sells these "RC0410 Hard Start Kits": https://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO410-OVERLOAD-CAPACITOR-Electronics/dp/B000LDB89S
Some people equate the 3n1 with the "hard start kit":
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/hvac/compressors-line-filter-dryers/hard-start-kits/supco-3-n-1-hard-start-14-13-hp?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=CLzx5YuD780CFYlrfgod-QIJPg
My question: Q: Is the hard start kit and the 3n1 the same thing or different?
Do you have experience with it kicking off a stuck compressor?
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From the ad:
The 3 n' 1 Start Relay adds new life to old refrigerators and freezers by providing an additional boost to the compressor. 1/4 and 1/3 Horsepower a.. 115-230VAC
So it looks like they are the same.
And no, never used one. Stuck compressors are very rare. Most of the time the windings overheat and short. The arcing produces acids that ruin the compressor.
But for $16 why not give it a try?
Can you take some more pictures of the start relay? Can you open the start relay for inspection? It looks like it just snaps together.
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On Tue, 12 Jul 2016 20:20:15 -0400, tom wrote:

I asked two Appliance Parts Stores, and they agree that they're one and teh same, so, the guy who said that they're not in that thread must be wrong:
http://i.cubeupload.com/VD0haS.jpg

It worked the first time! Then it failed the second time. :(
http://i.cubeupload.com/ja5XaK.jpg
I'm more confused now than ever, but I will try again after it cools down.

Actually, it was $29.50 here in San Jose:
http://i.cubeupload.com/8YQ1wK.jpg
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As others have said you must let it set for about 20 minutes for the pressure between the high side and the suction side to equalize. Also, if the kit uses a PTC starter, that also must cool down to room temperature.
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On Tue, 12 Jul 2016 23:38:32 -0400, tom wrote:

Here's the sound of the compressor running with the hard-start capacitor hooked up, sinking only about 3 amps through the COMMON terminal: http://tinypic.com/r/2q3p26s/9
Here's the sound of the compressor turning off, after running for about 20 minutes or so, sinking about 11 amps through the COMMON terminal: http://tinypic.com/r/fy1poz/9
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The capacitor on that hard start kit may be too large and cause overheating. Why don't you go ahead and get the correct part specified for the unit you have?
For the last time, did you clean the dust off the condenser coil? That's important.
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On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 01:51:55 -0400, tom wrote:

Given that the compressor is clearly working (at least for a short period of time), it seems that I have to go back and figure out what's bad.
Seems to make sense to replace the cap, even though 3 tests showed it to be good.
I was throwing away the frig as of this morning, so, there was no need to clean the condenser coil. I guess I'll clean it now - although do you really thing *that* is what is making the compressor cycle?
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