These are amazing tools:
You can move your head around and actually see around
components. They're much easier on the eyes than traditional
On Sat, 26 Sep 2015 14:14:14 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
1005s (Metric) are 0402s (Imperial) are our "standard" parts but we do
use some 0201s (0603 metric), as well. I've seen 01005s (1/4 again as
big) but haven't used them (don't sneeze!). The 0201s are generally
used as decoupling capacitors so rarely have to be touched.
On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 13:43:12 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
0201s fit between BGA pads to keep the caps close to the pins they're
decoupling (minimize inductance). For reliability reasons, they're
not allowed for any other purpose. 0402 is the minimum size, and
everything tends to the smallest possible (cost and space).
yeah but what i meant originally is that a popular channel on youtube can
mean significant income
some quit their day jobs
so if you found the right person it could be worth their time too
you do the woodwork
someone else does the video
A few years ago that big Milwaukee was on top of the heap.
Not sure where things are today.
An electronics swap out would be most desireable if you
can figure out a way to do it.
So before you do that.
Take it apart and blow out the switches.
Are you using a DC connected to the cabinet?
if you are this could be the problem.
Most all routers blow from the head to the bit to cool.
When you do a Norm type table you are killing the router.
A) it overheats as you are starving it of air
B) you overpower the fan and pull the dust through the motor to the
switch... I had gone through a number of switches before I finally wised
up. No more problems.
If you clean out the switch use some contact cleaner after blowing it
out. An on off switch is easier to clean than the speed control, but
try it anyway.
I opened the top, where the speed controller is located and found a
pretty clean environment. I suspected that it was heating up from dust
build up. BUT it goes full speed immediately some times after sitting
long enough to totally cool off.
Anyway, here is what it looks like and there is really nowhere dust will
BUT I think I will spray cleaner on it as you mentioned just in case
something I can't see is in there. Thank you
Ok, did that, the dial came off, then a small plastic dust shield and
some copper fingers. Totally clean inside but I gave it a shot of
electrical cleaner and blew it dry.
Reassembled and within about 3 seconds it was a runaway motor again.
BUT I turned it off and unplugged it, repluged it in and it immediately
went to full speed again but after a few seconds it slowed down and
worked normally. Oddly it seems to work correctly after it warms up.
We'll see. Thanks.
On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 9:47:00 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
You know, I don't know what I would do if I had an eleven year old tool tha
t needed repair. I would think I would be figuring out how many road miles
it had on it before I would repair it. Eleven years in _your_ shop seems
like a really long run. But if I liked the tool and its results, I could b
e pretty forgiving, in this case if the bearings and brushes were still goo
Many years ago I needed to cut some door panels and make a bunch of trim fo
r a really neat custom job I landed. I looked at a lot of routers and at t
hat time the big Porter Cable was still around. But the build quality had
fallen so much those that had the newer ones steered me away. I seem to re
member screeching bearings for some reason, although that may be wrong.
So that left Hitachi, Milwaukee and DeWalt. Don't remember why I passed th
e Hitachi. Didn't like the fit/finish of the Milwaukee, nor the fact that
the soft start wasn't very soft at all. IIRC, it is now made in China and w
ith a few manufacturing changes is a good router.
I HATE those damn handles, and under a table they take up a lot of room. A
lso, upside down, this machine is a nightmare to adjust. To me, this tool
was made to be a lightweight shaper that never left the table. Also, from
time to time I still use 1/4" shank bits, and a 1/4" collet does not come w
ith this machine. It is another $40-$50.
So down to the DeWalt. Not always crazy about their tools, and haven't alw
ays had great luck with them lasting. However, when I got this machine hom
e, it was love when I switched it on. Really nice soft start, not nearly a
s loud as the Milwaukee or the Porter Cable. This one came with the 1/4" c
ollet in the box.
It has plenty of power, doesn't require a suitcase sized table (this is ver
y similar in size to the Triton) and is extremely well made. It is made in
Italy by Elu from Italian and Swiss parts. The electronic speed control h
as been flawless. Under the table it is a breeze to adjust since I bought
one of these
for it. Some of the guys online that showed me their setups made nice adju
sters with a piece of pipe, a coupler nut and turned a nice looking wood kn
ob for the same purpose. When I found that for $15 at the time I purchased
it, it was a no brainer.
I don't know your setup for raising panels, but I am honestly afraid of the
horizontally spinning router bits that should be in a shaper. There was a
guy here locally that was using CMT bits to raise his panels and the bit b
roke and nicked him and half of the head lodged in the garage wall. At the
time I was also on Sawmill Creek, and although quite rare, a couple of fel
lows had the same result. Even figuring in that at least one wasn't using
the setup correctly, I am thinking about a bit going in a machine that in u
se just doesn't look safe to me.
I put the panels on edge and cut away as much as possible on a table saw.
Then I use a vertical panel raising bit to make my cuts. The vertical bits
cut a bit slower than the horizontally mounted since you don't have the mo
mentum behind that develops behind that large horizontal head, but the fini
sh is fine. I never have made a lot of doors and now rarely do. The route
r has plenty of power for dadoes, edging, and making passes with odd bits t
o make some "one off" shop designed trims. It can profile cut ton of trim
without overheating, and creates enough air flow around it even in the clos
ed box I made that it doesn't overheat. This router has been a really solid
performer and a joy for me to use. It has left the table from time to tim
e to edge or trim something as needed and it is easy to hold, aim and use.
The only knock I have heard (but not found to be a problem for me) is that
it doesn't plunge as deeply as some of the other routers in its class. I g
ot rid of the base that came on it and made a really large phenolic base, a
nd even after losing the thickness of the base, I still have no problems.
If I did, I would probably buy a bit extender and be done with it, but at t
his point no problems. I think this is one DeWalt got right.
On 9/26/2015 3:17 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Actually that tool does not see nearly as much action as the previous
router. I use it mostly to round over edges, 1/8" radius. And raised
panels, the occasional wood top edge treatment ans so on.
I really like the tool, I have not wanted for another feature to be on
Current reputation is what would cause me any concern on the Speedmatic
The handles are kinda weird but I would probably remove them for hanging
under the table. I probably would never use it anywhere else. I have a
huge Bosch plunge router used to be in the table but what a beast to
adjust, even with the various add on to make it easier to use.
FWIW the Triton only came with the half inch collet but came with a
multi segmented 1/4" adapter that has worked surprisingly well.
When I took the end cap off to view the innards I was almost in
disbelief that the insides were so clean. About the only thing that had
a layer of dust, and a very thin one at that, were the wires. Hardly
anything anywhere else. I will say that the air flow through the router
is pretty strong.
Humm. I'll keep that one in mind should I need to go that route.
With the Triton I can turn the speed way down and seriously I have no
issue with the horizontal bits. It cuts lit butt'a and is a relatively
quiet operation. I do however spin the better quality bits when doing
raised panels and I keep the bit covered with the fence so I am only
seeing about 1/4 exposure of the bit. And I typically make 3~4 passes,
just taking a little out at a time.
What wold turn me off on any router would to not be able to change the
bit from above the table. BUT I'll keep an eye on the DeWalt.
Thank you Robert!
On Saturday, September 26, 2015 at 8:21:41 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
I have been online looking at the Triton routers this morning and there sur
e seems to be a lot to commend that machine. When I bought my DeWalt, ther
e was no Triton here in the USA, maybe somewhere but Woodcraft introduced t
hem locally after I had purchased my machine. Then I recall there was a "b
ad batch" that ticked off my contact there, but that was many, many years a
Seems they have it all together, now. Read a lot of glowing reviews on the
Triton's power, a bit difficult for some but really accurate adjustments a
nd its reliability. Leon, am I reading this right about this router that y
ou can crank the height adjustment from the bottom of the router so that wh
en it is in a table you can use a wrench and adjust it from above? That wo
uld be a pretty nifty feature!
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