I think the main microswitches (the ones which switch the two elements, controlled via the power dial) on my T80i shower are dead - or at least one. (I resurrected one a few years back, but it's probably time to get new ones).
I know they're available from Triton, but they appear to be fairly generic microswitches and quite expensive for that - anybody got an idea of appropriate replacements from elsewhere?
Maplin, RS and that's 2 before I Google it
look at the markings, type them into Google, i found some for a soldering iron on eBay for a quid.
Steve
In article , Clive George writes
They will almost certainly be high current V3 microswitches (a standard format) with plain button actuators. They are dead easy to get in 16A versions but fewer suppliers have the 20A+ ratings that are sensible to use in electric showers.
IME RS Components have the best range of these and I believe they do allow one off web orders.
Last time I did this I used Cherry microswitches eg RS code 159-4477 (£2.17 + vat) but I see they have a Honeywell one that is cheaper and is rated for high temperature use too, RS code 515-729 (£1.35 + vat)
Pop the lid to check how many the shower uses, some use a lot, and it's easiest to get enough to replace the whole lot if needs be.
If the shower is getting long in the tooth, watch for overheating damage on the loom going to the microswitches, the spade connections they use are right on the limit at 20A and it doesn't take much to push them over the edge into overheating. Make sure the spades are a really tight fit on replacement.
Google for Shower Doc /Doctor ...Think they are in Edinburgh
I'd agree with Fred here. However also check the over-temp safety switches. I've fixed some T80s before now; I've seen dead temperature switches, but the microswitches seem to last.
In a new one I looked inside, they're bootlace ferules spot welded on. If I had to replace, I'd probably solder them.
I've already rejuvenated mine a while ago - the contacts got knackered and weren't conducting, so I scraped them clean. This time I thought I'd have a go at finding out if replacements were rather cheaper than the Triton prices. I've not actually got them out in front of me right now though.
Fred, thanks for that, it's what I was looking for and most helpful. I'd seen the honeywell one you mention and thought it looked to be the most appropriate one, but it's nice to have reassurance.
R, I can find microswitches easily enough, but knowing which ones are appropriate for a shower (form factor, electrical capacity) is what I was after. And Maplin don't do ones which will carry enough current. (neither do CPC/Farnell...)
Clive George pretended :
Most likely they will be a standard part, take a look at Maplins offerings, they have an online catalogue.
If I was designing a shower like these, I'd use a high current triac to do the switching, heaksunk to the incoming water supply. Not to mention that would also give you the capability of more proportional control too.
Heh - I've never felt the need to have proportional power control on an electric shower, since they're never powerful enough anyway :-)
(maybe to cool down at the end though - but I imagine the showers which do that merely run the water a bit after switching the kettle off).
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