A few days ago our electric tripped, the shower was in use at the time. Afterwards the shower seem to be working at half heat. The shower now regularly trips the electric. Is it likely to be an element, I believe it has two? Is there any point in trying to replace one of the elements?
In article , Chade writes
In addition to saving a bit of money, the benefit of changing just the element assembly is that you don't have to change the physical location of any electrics or plumbing.
A quick search for Triton t80xr element shows that these items are available for around 40quid so quite a saving over a new shower.
Depending on the failure mode it may have taken out on or more of the microswitches used to control the power feed to the elements, these will likely be high current (20A) V4 microswitches that are available for about 2 quid each.
Btw, both elements will be in a sealed can and will be replaced as a pair.
Replacement of these is straightforward but given that you are working on a unit supplied by something like a 40A fuse/breaker you need to be exceptionally careful with your safety practices and electrical competence. Do not work on one or test probe on it whilst live.
You'll need a multimeter as a minimum to verify that the element is at fault and to track down other potentially faulty components.
Excuse the cautious approach but better safe than sorry. That said, the diagram of that model suggests it is a straightforward build and repair.
In message , Chade writes
I've repaired a couple of Triton showers and found it easy and worth while. From a quick Google a new boiler for yours would be about £37
The boiler has 2 sets of elements in it and switches them in and out to give the different heat settings. You have to change the boiler, you can't just change an element.
Before purchasing anything I would check the microswitches in the power control, I've had enough of these fail that I now have a box of 100, less about half a dozen that I've used over the last 10 years to keep mine working.
Not sure I like the £20 quoted for a new switch assembly though! I don't know the T80XR, but on the earlier version I have it is possible to change individual switches.
In message , fred writes
Right. I switched off the switch marked 'shower' on the fuse box then tried the pull cord for the shower to see if the light came on. It tripped the main switch in the fuse box, so I left the main switch off. I opened up the shower and with a multi-meter checked the elements only one seems to be working. I tried the micro-switches but couldn't get a circuit trough either of them. I then noticed some water inside the shower. I can't find exactly where the leak starts, but the highest point I can trace the water to is near the solenoid, the underneath of which is pretty damp. The water is seeping along and dripping very slowly out of the bottom of the shower unit.
I think we're looking at a new shower. From what I've read the T80xr has stopped being made but new ones are still available over the internet with a two year guarantee. So it should be a straight swap. What should I use as a sealant between the shower unit and the tiled wall? The stuff around the existing shower looks like grout?
In article , Chade writes
I assume your main switch has an RCD incorporated. The fact that it tripped despite the shower breaker being off implies an earth to neutral fault within the shower (or wiring). It could well be that the popped element still has some leakage between its core and its body (they're metal sleeved) so not a big deal, it should be fixed by a new element.
It would be unlikely for both microswitches to go as one is feeding the working element, turning the control causes cams to push in the microswitches. Pushing them closed with a probe should let you test them with the meter (again with the power off). As to extended faultfinding I would view it as a challenge but I can understand if it is going further than you would like as this may require operation with the case open (not for the faint hearted or inexperienced).
Silicone would be fine, the idea is to apply it in an inverted horseshoe shape, leaving the bottom open. Then if there is water ingress or a leak in the shower it can escape out of the bottom.
I'd also only apply like that it to the wall that is covered by the shower unit rather than seal the unit to the wall. You never know you might want to take it of the wall at some point...
See how much clearance there is behind the unit and apply a bead of silicone a bit higher than that and let it set. When you fix the unit to the wall it will pull down onto the silicone and seal or at least keep the worst of the wet out of the back of the unit. Anythat does get through can get out through the open bottom.
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