Will get my Triton router on Saturday.
The aim is to replace my 1/4" Festo which is my table machine and have a
hand held router available.
Plan to make a new table but am unsure if it would be better to use a
plate insert or mount directly to the table in a cutout. ( Not sure if
this is described properly but someone posted a site where this was done
- cannot find the site now - any body know about it?)
The above table changing of bits would seem to make the use of an insert
a not required extra. Bolt it to the table and thats it. No having to
take the whole assembly out to change a bit.
Anybody done something like this with a Triton. Comments
If you can find the right pre-enegineered plate, it certainly makes the
rest of the project easier.
The part I like best about mine is the replaceable, variable throat sized
inserts. It means that I can keep the opening pretty close to the diameter
of the bit turning in the router. The concept is like that of a zero
clearance insert in a table saw, where the wood is supported right near the
This is the one I use (phenolic): http://www.woodpeck.com/inserts.html
There are lots of good ones available from many suppliers.
Hope that helps.
ps: Google on the recent thread about An Ultimate Router Table, where in
Unisaw A100 relates the story of an over-the-top new tool. Good reading.
And excellent engineering.
Agree it would be nice but to get one here will take 8 to 10 weeks (can
I wait that long? <G>)and the exchange rate and shipping kills it.
Will either have to make my own insert or fit the router directly to a
recess in the table. This is the decision to make.
I mounted my router on a plate, but only cut out the minimum space around
the router to minimise flex of the plate. This effectively gives me both
items, a small hole and a mounting plate.
"Phil Hansen" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
I have a Triton router that I use for my table. First off, let me
just tell you that I love it. DAGS on WoodChuck34 and Triton. I
posted some of my experiences with their customer support online (all
good, actually amazingly good).
I think its always helpful for people to know where the advice is
coming from, so here's my story.
I have a double laminated, double layered MDF top that I made a long
time ago intending to make a cabinet which I never did. My top sits
on 2 saw horses (at least for now).
Changing the bits is a snap with the Triton. I reach my hand under
the table and crank the plunge mechanism up until the collet is above
the table. It does work as intended and you don't need an insert that
is "removable" to change the bits. In fact, when my Triton is in the
table, I don't ever take it out to change the bits, even though I do
have it mounted on an Aluminum Bench Dog plate. The reason I use the
plate is that I like having zero clearance for my bits, and with that
plate, I can make my own inserts (for around the bit). I also like
the plate, because I can use the router handheld without removing it
from the plate. Its like a router with a big offset base, which works
for most of the handheld routing I want to do with the 3 HP router (I
use a PC 690 for most handheld stuff).
In short (too late), you really don't need to use a plate if you don't
Pat Warner, in his books and websites, suggests bolting the router
directly to the tabletop. See his site for some great information,
for this topic.
If you want to mount a plate, I did up a website explaining how I did
it based on Bill Hylton's Router Magic
My site is terrible and a work in progress. Never made a link to it
before so, no comments from the peanut gallery.
If you have any questions, about the Triton let me know. I'd be happy
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