Here is the way I look at it, if you are introducing mechanical metal
slides you are crossing that line away from really high end
craftsmanship. IOT if I don't to see compromises I build a web frame in
the cabinet, with center guide and a matching center guide for the
drawer, out of wood. No metal.... But in kitchen cabinets that will
see a lot of wear, and like Swingman said, wood on wood movement does
not hold up for the long haul.
Anyway if you are looking for a pretty good side mount full extension
100# Soft close slide I buy from this place. Really good pricing for a
KV distributed product.
The link info was great, less expensive that what I can get here
locally, even less than the box stores.
We decided at the beginning to use metal slides for their full length
extension capability, making it far easier to get at the stuff at the
back of the cabinet without having to unload the cabinet every time
you need something.
I also ran across a mention of a slide with an extra 3/4 " extension
for drawers that are under the counter top so that those drawers are
also fully extendable when you take the countertop overhang into
Thanks again Leon.!
You are welcome.
Keep in mind that the over travel slides can be a bit pricey for that extra
3/4" of travel. You cab accomplish the same thing by simply making the
drawer 3/4" or more shorter front to back.
The jig, as shown, works equally well with side mount drawer slides.
AAMOF, that is what it was originally designed for.
The practice of mounting "side mount" drawer slides on a spacer, then
mounting that assembly to the sides of face frame cabinets, dates back
to the introduction of the modern drawer slide.
Go on any residential construction site in the country during
installation of the kitchen cabinets and you will likely see something
identical in use by the trim carpenters during drawer installation.
Not all new homes being built today are cookie cutter "tract" homes; and
certainly not all those use pre-fab cabinets.
Although the trend to further cut costs by using pre-fabs (versus
built-ins or custom cabinets) has certainly grown since the bust of 2008
in the "spec" home market, pre-fabs, being particularly suited to
"cookie cutter" constructions methods, are still rarely seen in "spec"
homes; and even more rarely in "custom" homes.
Even then, it is evident that the cabinetry in _most_ homes in existence
in most parts of the country today are not prefabs, but most likely to
be onsite built-ins, which almost always require component installation
to be done onsite.
Just another reason why the modern drawer slide/cabinet hinge hardware
business has grown by leaps and bounds during the last twenty+ years.
And, which makes knowing how to efficiently, and cost effectively, use
and install that type of hardware a valuable skill today.
That skill being basically being the subject of the thread. ;)
Granted but I believe the trend has been headed that way for quite some
time in other than totally custom built homes or in our case, when upper
end remodeling. Perry homes has been better cookie cutter and still
offered job site built cabinets up until about 10 years ago.
Out where I live I would venture to say the vast majority of the homes
built in the last 20 years had prefab including the homes approaching $1M.
Understood and agreed but I highly suspect that the homers you are
referencing are a much smaller percentage of what is being built since the
Correct and I agree here but you mentioned to go on any residential
construction site in the country during installation of the kitchen
cabinets and you will likely see something identical in use by the trim
carpenters during drawer installation. residential home site construction
and I took that to mean new home construction.
I think we are just looking at what you said differently. Obviously we
never installed drawers in the kitchens that we did together prior to
Well the prefab cabs are certainly coming with better hardware, that is for
sure. I was a bit surprised that Colon & Reeda's new home with prefab
cabinets came with full extension side mount slides but equally surprised
that they were not soft close.
Many "undermount" drawer slides, designed to mount under the drawer,
allow you to build a wider drawer, but the bit you gain in drawer width
you may lose in drawer height, but not all that radical.
That said, I most always use those in fine cabinetry and high dollar
Basically, there are tradeoffs the consumer pays for modern
technology/conveniences ... like easy opening and closing, long lasting,
smooth operating, low maintenance, and modern features like self
closing, and full extension slides.
There are many more traditional ways to build and mount drawers, but in
environments like kitchens and bathrooms the drawbacks of those
traditional methods (mostly that rely on inherent wood on wood contact
points that do not handle gracefully the load of a modern kitchen
drawer, especially over long periods of time), all are a hard sell these
When you get right down to it, the aesthetic beauty of the old
fashioned, hand crafted drawer in a fine piece of furniture will
generally not hold up to the use required in the modern kitchen.
On 2/1/2016 1:39 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
The drawer would have to have a groove big enough for the whole slide to
fit into, including the cabinet portion of the slide.
If not, the drawer would not close as the drawer portion of full
extension slides imbeds into the cabinet side of the slide.
For fine furniture and cabinetry, normally yes.
For Tier 1 kitchen cabinets with 3/4" sides and 1/2" bottoms, depends
upon the budget.
Tier 2 kitchen cabinets, not usually, just on the front.
Consider the two most detrimental forces that act upon a kitchen cabinet
drawer that cause it to fail:
1.The sheer force acting on the drawer sides when pulling the drawer out
by the drawer front, or false front.
2. The downward force of the load on the drawer bottom from the contents.
Front dovetails totally mitigate #1;
And a dadoed drawer back, cut high enough to allow a thinner drawer
bottom to slide into grooves, thereby allowing for drawer bottom
replacement, instead of a new drawer if it becomes necessary from
overloading, mitigates, to a large extent #2.
Proves the point: A 30 year old kitchen is not a "modern" kitchen, and
it appears some of the existing drawers did not even withstand that. ;)
Note: I can make a good living just bringing 7 year old kitchen cabinet
components in multi-million dollar homes up to modern standards (that's
how shoddy residential construction workmanship is these days) ... and
certainly anything older for damned sure. LOL
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