Are you speaking of S4S? I have found boards supposedly like that and the only way they could say that was because to boards were cut down to shadows of their former selves. We have a couple hardwood inside lumber stores that I was planning on using for that as well as the ff.
Even Woodcraft sucked with what little they stock, and the box stores only sell unfinished "Bows" IYKWIM.
There I am learning still from the end grain, and also from what little stock I have at home. Related to this is the center of the door, the panels. I have read that it is better to join boards rather than use just one (like for raised panels) to eliminate warping, and best to use a good plywood, but then my options are reduced to a flat panel from what little I know, but a very stable door over the years that way. If so I could still make the cathedral frame I would imagine.
In all of this the end product is to be painted white per the boss, and Leon did mention a while back two different woods that would show very little grain when painted. Wouldn't it be possible to M&T the door frame with the arched top? Any additional thoughts would be appreciated.
I do have a 6" jointer/planer, a 12" planer that I am working the kinks out of, and of course a TS, BS, etc, along with a few planes, and hand tools, plus a router table, cast iron, but I am going to build a larger one soon. So it wouldn't cost much to try and see how it goes. I have been keeping track of the costs since if I can find a really decent set of cabinets for not much more than the wood it would seem foolish to let pride stand in the way.
I have noticed that most of the router slop is in the housings allowing the motor assy to shift about 3/1000 of an inch, side to side, and in one case it was the router motor bearings themselves that were at fault. I was making a simple art frame easel, double sided, for my grand kids when I first noticed the inconsistency that you are speaking of. The flip clamp on those that have a split base helps to lock it in place.
Seems like you are saying a router is fine for decorations, not for fitment.?
In all seriousness it wouldn't break my heart to stay away from that particular router bit setup, do to all the variations one needs to adjust the bit to, just to make a hidden tenon. And it would strike me that the most reasonable way would be to buy several sets of them so you could have each bit permanently set for each phase of the Job, but then I'd of spent half the money for a domino tool and only be able to use the bits just from cabinet door joints. :(
Yes, I was planning on making a few "toy' doors of whatever variety to set up a plan of attack as well as increase my comfort level with the processes.
Like Mike said, good luck with that! But yes, I would go to looking
Certainly something to consider, for sure. Just getting the right wood alone would be half the battle.