A few weeks ago I mentioned that I was going to begin building the office library file cabinets and book shelves. On Wednesday I loaded up on white oak s4s 1x8, 150 linear feet, and a sheet of cherry 3/4" plywood.
I cut the cherry first thing and use the track saw to cut the sheet into manageable sizes along with some finish cuts.
Several years ago I, and Swingman, ordered a Betterly Straight Line connector. This blue tool insures that two or more tracks that are combined end up being straight. It takes longer to pull the tool out of the box than to set it up to insure straight unions.
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After cutting the sheet of cherry I moved on to cutting dados, tenons, Domino mortises, and groves for the front and back face frames for the two file cabinets. Also dados for the cherry plywood sides.
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And close up of how the back face frame pieces go together.
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Right now all 16 pieces are in the clamps.
I'll keep you posted as things progress. I am changing up how I index the drawer divider rails and slides.
I remember talking to Swingman about that after he got his. It came up whe n he showed me the genius add he put on his track arrangement for his Festo ol to help manipulate the guide more accurately. After we talked about the track alignment tool, I found out it was available for other brands or tra ck as well as he was able to get one for his DeWalt saw. He love it as he doesn't have to fiddle around with any adjustments, just make up his connec tions and go.
Since you already skinned that cat so well, I am interested to see where yo u are going with that.
BTW, did you ever find the library/sliding ladder hardware you were looking for? I remember a lot of ideas flying around, but no final decisions.
Don't know that for sure, but I think you are right about some tracks working with other saws. Could be a woodworking myth/legend though, as I don't know anyone that has interchanged their use.
The cab farthest left with the light valance is existing, no? Will the new match the old, or are you going for different/complimentary styles?
I remember joining the hunt for the hardware and it was indeed nasty as far as pricing went. I remember that photo... does the ladder simply lean on the rail up top or does it hook in some way?
I have a DeWalt right angle attachment, for the DeWalt tracks, that fits my Festool Track. I would assume the other parts interchange, maybe not.
Yes the forward left "desk" does exist now, leaning on it right now. :!) It is currently on the west wall facing east. I am going to clock it 90 degrees to the south wall facing north. The new cabinets will be on the north wall and face south and or the desk. Same wood, same basic style.
Here, but they will actually face each other on opposite sides of the room. I thought that it was going to be overwhelming but you will not actually see it from the entry hall. You will only see the desk from the hall but when you walk into the office and turn around to exit, surprise!
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That ladder is in a tourist shop in Rock Port. It only leans against the bar but it would be easy enough to have it hook. I will probably simply pick it up and move it to where I want it. Either way, having a simple ladder will be relative inexpensive so if I don't like it I can probably retro fit it with hardware.
IIRC hardware is about $1,200. I might be able to forgo the top steel rails and fancy roller hooks at the top rails and just get the wheel set up. THAT would be a lot less expensive.
Thanks for the mention of the shears again. If I ever do siding again I'll build it into the price. ;~) I replaced most of the Masonite fiber board that came on our first home and I think Bryan had the balance replaced when he had the roof replaced. Sections above the short roof sections in the front and back of the house. I used a carbide tooth blade to cut that. About 12 years ago I built a store room and use Hardi and used the diamond blade on that job, and there was duuuuuust. ;~)
He had some facia replaced and learned that the life time aluminum roof, that Kim and I had installed 20+ years ago, was leaking. And of course Alcoa no longer stood behind that product. It looked like cedar shingles and could not be repaired. Insurance paid to replace the whole thing and they paid him 5 times more than I paid to have it installed. Good investment! He ended up getting a 50 year parts and labor GAF composition shingle roof for 1/4 of what the insurance company paid him......
I was thinking about a rollign ladder for a high platform in my wife;s studio, but the prices were just to much. A step ladder solves the problem and takes up less room...
Yes I saw that and the low prices are a bit deceiving.
You have to choose the wheel type, some lock, some are a different color or style. You add the top latch mechanism. You add the multiple roller bars. You add the bar caps. You add the stand off brackets. You add the hardware to hold the wooden parts together...
Am sure I offered up this solution which has worked very well for accessing the small sleeping loft at our tiny Colorado cabin. One has to be careful to get it right when you must find your way down for the inevitable middle-of-the-night bathroom visit [or two]. See: alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking / Jefferson Stairs
I have not looked at all so far. I have not got the book cases put in yet. I need to know exactly what my needs will be before I go hunting. But yes, we have Habitat for Humanity stores here and probably some old resale and or antique stores.
It's probably too late now - or maybe not even important - but wouldn't it make sense to look for a ladder at the start of the project, just in case you need to make some kind of adjustment to your plans?
It would suck find the perfect ladder and then find that you are an inch off on the placement of a shelf or divider or structural piece, preventing a proper mounting.
Don't take that as a rookie giving advice to an expert, take it as a question. ;-)
Perhaps but I am not changing the cabinet plans for the sake of the ladder. Push come to shove I will use a 3' folding step. ;~)
I will build the ladder, it can be any size I want.
If the ladder was the focus of the complete project I would absolutely have designed the ladder and cabinets together. But ladder kits, including the wood and all the needed components run in the $1200 range. I hope to not spend that much. Also the ladder kits tell you what sizes to buy depending on where the top of the ladder will be and how far away from the cabinet the floor end has to be. It seems very flexible.
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