Paint Suggestions For Bookcases & Base Cabinets

I am by no means a painting expert, but I've learn some things every time I do another set of bookcases.

1. Flood additives. These are awesome in making the paint go on smoothly and level out brush/roller marks.
2. Latex paint on shelves always seems "sticky" to me, forever. It always seems to grab what's put down on it. If someone knows of a paint that doesn't do that, I'm all ears.
3. Zinsser B-I-N, a shellac-base primer-sealer. It's not cheap, but it's awesome. Last time I did shelves in white, I used Zinsser B-I-N on the shelves and nothing else. I built up about 3 coats and it fine sanded so smooth, it was almost semi-gloss. But that stuff dries much harder than latex and never feels sticky afterwards. It also dries very fast. You can build up 3 coats in a day.

I'll definitely second the Flood Floetrol recommendation.

For base cabinets I've found a Melamine paint to work very well. I think it was CIL, can't remember for sure - but it's a water based alkyd that flows out very well, leaving a nice "sheen" - not a high gloss, but not an eggshell either. REALLY nice for cabinetry.

It dried "hard" like an enamel, not gooey like some latex.

Would you mind pointing to a link that might have more info or a similar product?

thought orange peel is a function of paint amount and not the paint ambient air temp probably has a role too

why not spray it on or get the small diameter roller with the fine nap

read the label as most have comprehensive info on application

primer usually cheaper and usually the way to go

I have done a lot of trim painting and this type painting. I would suggest a premium alkyd oil based paint. I also suggest that you prime the wood and follow that with a light sanding to smooth the surface. I have had no issue with using a water based primer for an oil based paint, but water based does raise the grain hence lightly sanding the primed surface before painting final coat.

I have had the best luck with Sherwin Williams top of the lines paints.

For small areas I use a 3" Purdy or Wooster synthetic brush. For large flat areas I use the 1" X 4" closed foam rollers.

Above all don't over work the surface. If you end up with thing spots reapply after the paint had dried over night or until no longer tacky.

With any paint I would suggest reading the directions for cure time and when you can use it. Latex paints, being plasticy, seem to always stick to what ever you set on them, especially the enamels.

Paint amount and application error

Spaying is not an option and of course I would use a roller appropriate for the job.

Duh.

Double duh.

Google "melamine paint" and mabee add CIL?

On 1/28/2018 4:59 PM, Clare Snyder wrote: ...

Don't grok CIL...