With a router.
Since you can't see the blade, people have been know to push the wood through with their hand on top of the wood where the blade can come through or they can push it past the blade while part of their hand is hanging over. This type of accident has happened on router tables also.
They certainly do allow them -- although they don't like them, and they have strong recommendations on either avoiding them, or how to guard them.
And there isn't a single EU OSHA body anyway. Each country has its own, and they talk about harmonisation between them.
All of this stuff is _very_ well documented by a library of PDFs on the UK HSE site.
People have been known to run themselves over w/ their own automobiles, too... :)
There's a point at which one just has to say "be careful".
imo, etc., ...
--
I know a guy with a commercial shop who dadoed one of his ring fingers off completely... I keep that in mind whenever I make blind cuts.
Long ago I started using a Biesemeyer T-Square Anti-kickback Splitter on my saws. The ability to easily remove and replace it encourages use. The factory splitters are too much of a hassle...
John
will go a long way towards reducing the number of kickbacks and projectile wood.
Euro equivalent of OSHA doesn't allow table saws to hold stacked dado blades.
OH! I was going to ask WHAT a riving knife was until I read that, Charlie...
The Ridgid TS that I bought a few months ago has one, if I'm understanding you.. and I have no problem with it at all... also has an anti-kick back spur on each side of it, and I'm glad that they're there...
OTOH, when I'm doing dados, the whole assembly including the plastic blade guard comes off with one wing nut, which the new regulations might not allow..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
You can say that again... (and did) *g*
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Ok... I'm getting educated here.. My saw has a splitter, not a riving knife..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
I sure am... *g*
I remember Shopsmith sending me a metal blade shroud and DC port thingy years ago as a safety upgrade..
Never used it because it would add at least 10 minutes to the changeover time when you were doing anything BUT sawing...
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Kickback ceased being a problem after I upgraded to a t-square fence and aligned it dead on parallel to the blade. Helps also to never leave a rip hanging between the fence and the heel of the blade.
As for taking off fingers, note that the front of the blade is less likely to pull your hand in than the heel of the blade.
Completely untrue. A properly aligned fence can go a long way to preventing kickbacks, but it certainly does not entirely eliminate the possibility of it happening. Kickbacks can happen for other reasons than fence misalignment.
Since when does UL write binding rules?
It is a private company that inspects merchandise for insurance purposes. It is not a government agency.
Dang ... the hook fell off the line ... lookit that, Vern!
Most of those reasons having to do with the rising back end of the blade, which that sharkfin shaped riving knife is designed to address. Honestly, though, the day I got my Biesemeyer dead aligned (with the help of a dial indicator) is the day kickback stopped.
That'll take care of ONE potential causes of kickbacks. There are several more causes, some not so obvious. Ever had a board you're ripping "cross its legs" - behind the blade? How about having it "spread its legs" behind the blade - and push the back INTO the rear teeth - the ones coming UP out of the throat plate that'll try and lift the board UP into the teeth spinning TOWARDS YOU?
Being one who doesn't enjoy having wood try and kill me, I did a bit of research and some thinking and then put together the following for my own use. Figured once I'd done that the info might save someone else some grief so I put them on my site. Guess it's time to post the url to that stuff.
Or have a long unsupported board tilt up off the back of the table saw - raising the end up into the KILLER REAR TEETH.
Also not a good idea to be ripping a long board and have it stopped by some obstruction behind the saw. Hard to keep control of the board AND find the OFF switch.
How about if the back of your throat plate is just a hair lower than the table top - AND the part you're ripping deforms DOWN and the edge catches in that little step between the table top and the back of the throat plate?
That seems counter intuitive. The rear quarter of the blade has teeth pushing UP and at some point FOREWARD. The top front quadrant is pushing up and at some point DOWNWARD. Could you explain more please?
charlie b
"> Since when does UL write binding rules?
True, and on certain and many jobsites, the tools have to be UL listed for the insurance coverage of the site ( workman's comp, liability, etc). I was working on a hotel recently in which the tile guy was temporarily kicked off for not having a UL listed tile saw. I would imagine that the same could be held to be true in wood working shops that employ as well. Insurance companies denying coverage or raising premiums sky high because you aren't using a UL listed saw.
Allen
You still need to be cautious. If the board starts to close up behind the blade it can still pinch the blade and be thrown back at you. A heavy hand will help to prevent this but a dead parallel fence will not help in this matter.
Missing the point. Feed problems are one thing, WOOD problems another. I'm one who keeps that 32nd extra on the far end of the fence, and I usually have a featherboard in my left hand to hold the fed piece to the fence just prior to the blade. Optimum situation which is sometimes frustrated by the wood twisting and kerf closing as one becomes two. Most expensive fence set with the most expensive device won't prevent problems there.
Still asking why anyone's standing in a place where a kickback piece could even get to them when cutting. Seems stupid. Stand where if it runs back it hits the wall, not you.
There can be mitigating circumstances. I use a wheelchair and don't have the reach or capability to stand completely out of the way while still being able to control the feed of a length of wood. Yeah, I could do things like buying an automatic feeder or use other exotic machinery, but like most woodworkers, money is not in abundant supply with me.
Regardless, both come into play and must be delt with.
I'm > one who keeps that 32nd extra on the far end of the fence, and I usually
The problem I have with that is that the waste side of the cut tends to come in contact with the back side of the blade. The then requires the waste side, "if it is going to be used as a keeper" to be run through the jointer to smooth the edge be fore running through the saw again. Properly set up you should never have to run the board through the jointer after a TS cut to clean up an edge.
Optimum situation which is sometimes frustrated by the
Where is it that you think a kick back will not get you? I have seen kick backs come over the top of the fence. Any where behind the blade is a vulnerable spot, some more than others.
Oh hogwash. If you push the piece straight ahead, it doesn't contact the blade on the waste side. Unless you overfeed and the blade squirms. Not to mention that it's a good practice to rip oversize to allow for a tad of strain relief on the wood, especially where the grainis changing angles fast relative to the surfaces.
So don't stand behind the blade, stand to the side where the switch is located.
LOL If your fence is offset at the back end, you "can not" push the board parallel to the blade. The wood does in fact come in contact with the back side of the blade other wise what do you accomplish by off setting the fence.
Unless you overfeed and the blade squirms. Not to
Perhap a good practice for some but I absolutely never ever cut over size for the reason you stated.
I have stood some 2' to the right of blade, farther away from the blade than the switch, and have had a piece fly back at me up at a 45 degree angle from the blade.
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