I use the MJ Splitter also. FIY there is a much more heavy duty version
although the microjig.com web site still does not show it. I bought the HD
version at the last WW show in April. It fits in larger holes and tapers
down to the 1/8" and 3/32" width above the table insert. The HD version is
stainless steel covered in translucent plastic.
Regardless, both come into play and must be delt with.
I'm > one who keeps that 32nd extra on the far end of the fence, and I
The problem I have with that is that the waste side of the cut tends to come
in contact with the back side of the blade. The then requires the waste
side, "if it is going to be used as a keeper" to be run through the jointer
to smooth the edge be fore running through the saw again. Properly set up
you should never have to run the board through the jointer after a TS cut to
clean up an edge.
Optimum situation which is sometimes frustrated by the
Where is it that you think a kick back will not get you? I have seen kick
backs come over the top of the fence. Any where behind the blade is a
vulnerable spot, some more than others.
Oh hogwash. If you push the piece straight ahead, it doesn't contact the
blade on the waste side. Unless you overfeed and the blade squirms. Not to
mention that it's a good practice to rip oversize to allow for a tad of
strain relief on the wood, especially where the grainis changing angles fast
relative to the surfaces.
So don't stand behind the blade, stand to the side where the switch is
LOL If your fence is offset at the back end, you "can not" push the board
parallel to the blade.
The wood does in fact come in contact with the back side of the blade other
wise what do you accomplish by off setting the fence.
Unless you overfeed and the blade squirms. Not to
Perhap a good practice for some but I absolutely never ever cut over size
for the reason you stated.
I have stood some 2' to the right of blade, farther away from the blade
than the switch, and have had a piece fly back at me up at a 45 degree
angle from the blade.
Though the term "kickback" is often used to describe
a table saw flinging a piece of wood and the type that
launches it straight back paralleling the sides of the
saw blade(the Spear kickback) is the one most obvious
one, the Flip and Fling is the one that can go almost
anywhere that's not behind the blade.
The Flip and Fling involves ripping short pieces - about
the length of the exposed blade above the throat plate.
The part, being short, can rotate, even into the small
gap between the rear teeth and a riving knife, and make
contact with an uprward traveling rear tooth. This
begins to lift the short piece off the table - and away
from the fence. Once that begins, the part is thrown
up into the upper teeth which can flip the part just
about anywhere - including left and right of the center
line of the arbor shaft. Kelly Mahler (I think that's the
spelling) uses a piece of styra foam sheet to demon-
strate the Flip and Fling. People are amazed at where
the Flipped and Flung piece goes.
Bottom line is
Proper Stock Preparation
Proper Saw Set Up
Control The Stock
If what you're about to do makes you feel
uncomfortable there's probably a reason.
Try and come up with another way of doing
Great info, Charlie!
Also another reason for a good sled... I used to just use a sled for cross
cutting but have started using one for ripping small or short pieces, also..
Please remove splinters before emailing
The one that caught our attention was when the wife and eldest son were
talking in the shop whilst I was trying to get the last bit of walnut
cut, and then we'd go do something 'important'. The piece that caught
the blade, flipped up and smashed the overhead light, before whacking me
on the way down changed our plans a bit.
They left the shop, while I cleaned up in the semi-dark...
I know this is not technically advisable, but this is how I handle
short pieces, where short is less than twice the length of the blade,
that are too narrow to allow me to run my hand between blade and
fence. Cut in half way, pull back out, flip end for end, cut the rest
of the way. The stock never reaches the rear teeth so there is no
chance of a kickback, and I would just prefer to have my hands on the
stock rather than any other contraption for holding it otherwise
Might want to check out The GRIPPERRRRR. Works really well
ripping narrow and / or short pieces. Keeps your hand well
above the blade and controls the stock ON BOTH SIDES OF THE
you can make something similar out of scraps - and add a
screen door handle to the top of it.
A long time ago, I experienced wood taking flight before it reached the rear
teeth. If you're running wood along the fence and it becomes skewed in
between the side of the blade and the fence, you're looking at a kick back
in the making long before the rear teeth are reached.
As far as I'm concerned, kick backs and wood being thrown is a possibility
despite most precautions. Yup, there's lots one can do to minimize those
possibilities, but knowing that it *could* happen means always adopting
protective measures and protective stances to lower those possibilities.
Yup, there's lots one can do to minimize those
My #2 defense against any kind of kick back is to keep/insure a "firm" hold
on the material being cut and use sharp blades. For what ever reason I
sometimes feel the material lift and I have been able to keep the piece from
flying back by simply exerting more downward pressure. With enough pressure
the blade will simply cut into the material rather than catch it and throw
it back. I like to think of this procedure as controlling the stock rather
than poking it through with the end of a stick.
By your description. it sounds like you use similar techniques.
Yeah, but I'd just as soon not have kickback no matter where I'm standing...
I've seen pictures of boards through shop walls, knocking things off shelves,
I can just picture kicking something back 12 or 15 feet and hitting the grill of
the truck.. lol
Please remove splinters before emailing
What type of pusher are you using? The push stick recommended in
the operator's manual is worthless, because it holds down the
end of the board, opposite the heel end where kickback forces are
generated. Use a shoe type, with healthy grip to give you the
best fighting chance once the kerf starts going wacky.
That'll take care of ONE potential causes of kickbacks.
There are several more causes, some not so obvious.
Ever had a board you're ripping "cross its legs" - behind
the blade? How about having it "spread its legs" behind the
blade - and push the back INTO the rear teeth - the ones
coming UP out of the throat plate that'll try and lift the
board UP into the teeth spinning TOWARDS YOU?
Being one who doesn't enjoy having wood try and kill me,
I did a bit of research and some thinking and then put
together the following for my own use. Figured once
I'd done that the info might save someone else some
grief so I put them on my site. Guess it's time to post
the url to that stuff.
Or have a long unsupported board tilt up off the back of the
table saw - raising the end up into the KILLER REAR TEETH.
Also not a good idea to be ripping a long board and have it
stopped by some obstruction behind the saw. Hard to keep
control of the board AND find the OFF switch.
How about if the back of your throat plate is just a hair
lower than the table top - AND the part you're ripping
deforms DOWN and the edge catches in that little step
between the table top and the back of the throat plate?
That seems counter intuitive. The rear quarter of the
blade has teeth pushing UP and at some point FOREWARD.
The top front quadrant is pushing up and at some point
DOWNWARD. Could you explain more please?
Is there a riving knife available for a delta contractor saw. I was
going to buy a couple of MJ stainless slitters from Peachtree. One for
a throat plate with the blade all the way up 3.25" +- and one for the
blade up 1".I now use a gripper for small parts and grip tite mag
units when ripping long parts.
Another thing to look at carefully is that TS in the UK now have the
safety guard fitted to the top of the riving knive. This means that
you can only ose the TS for cutting completely through the wood. I
suggest that if this is the case then you should get a second knive
and adapt it so you can, if required just cut slots in wood or for
cutting the lid on a box.
decision without any consultation with the people who use the tools.
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