Riving Knife

Looking for a new circ saw to replace my old B&D - which is a great saw, but the fence doesn't tuck under the base, so it won't rip less that 40mm - and is big & heavy.

Looking for a 160mm ish saw with a 50mm depth of cut & I notice that many circ saws no longer have a riving knife fitted.

I've removed the one on my old B&D because its a PITA in many ways, but I can always re fit it if I need to.

The purpose of a riving knife AFAIUI is to stop the cut closing up & binding on the blade. So how do the saws without the RK overcome this - or don't they. I was wondering why they hadn't fitted them?

Reply to
The Medway Handyman
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The RK is really only needed when rip sawing natural timber, which might close onto the blade. When cross cutting natural timber, or cutting man-made board, there is almost no chance of the blade being closed upon.

Reply to
Mr Fuxit

On Fri, 30 Mar 2007 20:14:48 +0100, "The Medway Handyman" mused:

Thought you were looking at Makitas? They all seem to come with a riving knife AFAICS.

Took mine off when I bought the saw nearly 10 years ago and have never touched it since.

Reply to
Lurch

If the saw jams at the front, no harm done, as the wood is pulled against the baseplate, so nothing goes anywhere. If the saw jams at the back, the circ saw is thrown upwards at the user. So I kept my riving knife.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

they also protect against forceful upthrust caused by pushing the saw to the side, which is an easy thing to unintentionally do.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

On 31 Mar 2007 00:30:18 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@care2.com mused:

I just keep a tight grip. ;)

Most of my work is awkward to do with a riving knife in the way, and the stuff where a riving knife wouldn't be in the way is usually chipbord of some sort which generally wouldn't close in in the blade as you cut it.

Reply to
Lurch

I still am, but I can't find out if the fence tucks under the base. And the Makita doesn't seem to come with a case, which is a PITA and adds to the cost.

But I wondered why they now make them without - given all the safety regs these days?

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

That ought to be a minor consideration though. I know that manufacturers like to throw in blades, sets of gloves etc. Cases are an arguable thing, although I tend to agree that for something sold for trade use, there ought to be one. Even so, it shouldn't be the major decision making criterion.

Which manufacturers? I looked at all of the major quality brands and all seem to have riving knives. I certainly wouldn't buy or use a portable circular saw without. They certainly can kick back otherwise and if the timing is wrong and you are too close, the spring return on the guard may not have completely closed off the blade.....

Reply to
Andy Hall

If you can't concentrate, stay away from power tools altogether

Reply to
Stuart Noble

I am surprised you can't modify your B&D to do this... my one will rip much closer that 40mm. I will do some photos of it shortly and post them, you may be able to see a way of copying its layout,

Some do:

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fact there are quite a few on this page with cases:

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(The Hitachi saws are *really* nice IME as well)

Probably because for the majority of users it is not usually a risk factor. Most cuts made are in man made boards. I have never seen ordinary softwood close up on cutting. Its only when you get into less common species, or very deep cuts (issue only on bigger saws obviously) that the potential for this problem increases.

Reply to
John Rumm

lol

Reply to
meow2222

Tha last one I noticed it on (or not on) was a MacAlister in B&Q but I have seen a 'major brand' without a RK - might have been Skil?

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

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Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Thanks John, but it's not just the fence, the B&D is far too big & heavy. I'm looking for a 160mm saw with a 50mm depth of cut really.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

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Festool TS55 is those sizes, comes with a riving knife and in a Systainer case. It's rather nice to use as well.

Reply to
Andy Hall

Bloody well should be at £250 + !!!

I'd want an operator thrown in at that price!

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Actually the Hitachi one isn't bad either.

Like this one?

Maureen is a friendly, well-trained, highly-experienced operator based in Hull. Maureen is regularly coached and tested to make sure she ? or he! ? provides the sort of customer service that makes you happy.

Reply to
Andy Hall

50 years ago, it was almost expected that a full-time sawyer would not finish his career with a full set of fingers; or if he didn't, it was entirely his own fault.

Such attitudes are not acceptable now; but even back then, the one safety precaution they *did* insist on was a riving knife.

Reply to
Ian White

I've got the Skil Orca, it's a very reasonable saw at it's price point. As you say, it's designed without a riving knife. The manual says that when held properly the operator should be able to control kick backs, should one occur. It comes with a neat, compact case (many power tool cases are overly large for what they hold IMO), though the saw fits in a peculiar canted over position that isn't obvious. 90 quid at

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For a little more money, I think CC manufacturers are bundling guide rail systems - very useful for repetitive panel work.

Reply to
dom

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