If you are going to buy a new TS in the near future and think that
there are too many safety devices on the TS's now, you better buy one now
before the UL regulations require the new TS's to be equipped with a riving
For the rest of us, this is probably good news.
The bait has been cast. ;~)
About freakin' time. Won't keep you from cutting off a finger or
but will go a long way towards reducing the number of kickbacks and
projectile wood. Hopefully they'll include a thin kerf and regular
riving knife with each new saw. Not sure what they'll come up with
for stacked dado blades - which is why the Euro equivalent of OSHA
doesn't allow table saws to hold stacked dado blades.
You don't. The riving knife keeps the kerf open behind the blade
so it can't close and make contact with the rear teeth - the
ones that typcially start a kickback.
Separate issue - dados - the EU OSHA doesn't allow "blind cuts"
on a table saw - that is cuts like rabbets/rebates and dados.
Since you can't see the blade, people have been know to push the wood
through with their hand on top of the wood where the blade can come through
or they can push it past the blade while part of their hand is hanging over.
This type of accident has happened on router tables also.
I know a guy with a commercial shop who dadoed one of his ring fingers off
completely... I keep that in mind whenever I make blind cuts.
Long ago I started using a Biesemeyer T-Square Anti-kickback Splitter on my
saws. The ability to easily remove and replace it encourages use. The
factory splitters are too much of a hassle...
The UK HSE recommendation for avoiding this is the use of "Shaw
guards" or "tunnel guards".
They're illustrated here:
Although they're not simple to construct (as an adjustable guard) and
probably require both welding and drilled attachments to the machine
table, they're worth having. Once you have them, they're certainly
worth using. You can also lash-up a one-off for long batches, even if
you don't make a neatly adjustable version.
The woodworking index of the HSE site is here:
it's well worth the look.
They certainly do allow them -- although they don't like them, and they
have strong recommendations on either avoiding them, or how to guard
And there isn't a single EU OSHA body anyway. Each country has its own,
and they talk about harmonisation between them.
All of this stuff is _very_ well documented by a library of PDFs on the
UK HSE site.
There seems to be a certain amount of confusion on that last point,
Charlie. Stacked cutters are certainly available here (see
) from several sources. I had heard on a woodworking program here
that as long as the arbor on the TS was long enough to accomodate the
cutters, then the set could be used. Can't find any definitive
will go a long way towards reducing the number of kickbacks and projectile wood.
I was going to ask WHAT a riving knife was until I read that, Charlie...
The Ridgid TS that I bought a few months ago has one, if I'm understanding you..
and I have no problem with it at all... also has an anti-kick back spur on each
side of it, and I'm glad that they're there...
OTOH, when I'm doing dados, the whole assembly including the plastic blade guard
comes off with one wing nut, which the new regulations might not allow..
Please remove splinters before emailing
Kickback ceased being a problem after I upgraded to a t-square
fence and aligned it dead on parallel to the blade. Helps also to
leave a rip hanging between the fence and the heel of the blade.
As for taking off fingers, note that the front of the blade is less
likely to pull your hand in than the heel of the blade.
Completely untrue. A properly aligned fence can go a long way to preventing
kickbacks, but it certainly does not entirely eliminate the possibility of
it happening. Kickbacks can happen for other reasons than fence
Most of those reasons having to do with the rising back end of the
blade, which that sharkfin shaped riving knife is designed to
Honestly, though, the day I got my Biesemeyer dead aligned (with the
help of a dial indicator) is the day kickback stopped.
You still need to be cautious. If the board starts to close up behind the
blade it can still pinch the blade and be thrown back at you. A heavy hand
will help to prevent this but a dead parallel fence will not help in this
Missing the point. Feed problems are one thing, WOOD problems another. I'm
one who keeps that 32nd extra on the far end of the fence, and I usually
have a featherboard in my left hand to hold the fed piece to the fence just
prior to the blade. Optimum situation which is sometimes frustrated by the
wood twisting and kerf closing as one becomes two. Most expensive fence set
with the most expensive device won't prevent problems there.
Still asking why anyone's standing in a place where a kickback piece could
even get to them when cutting. Seems stupid. Stand where if it runs back
it hits the wall, not you.
There can be mitigating circumstances. I use a wheelchair and don't have the
reach or capability to stand completely out of the way while still being
able to control the feed of a length of wood. Yeah, I could do things like
buying an automatic feeder or use other exotic machinery, but like most
woodworkers, money is not in abundant supply with me.
I generally agree with George regarding where you stand... it was drilled
into my head as a kid. My father had served an apprenticeship as a tool and
die maker and he passed some of the knowledge along... where to stand, don't
brush chips off with your hand (metal mindset!), don't use the side of the
grinding wheel, etc.
With the wheel chair in mind I'd certainly use something like a riving knife
or a good splitter like the Biesemeyer T-Square splitter. This as there is
no way you could get out of the way fast enough if there was a kick back nor
would you have the body leverage to control a problem piece of wood.
http://www.biesemeyer.com/safety/index.htm I've found the Biesemeyer
splitter to be helpful with reaction wood that wants to close up the kerf
during cutting. The only time I've had a problem with the splitter was when
I didn't put it back in after using the cross-cut sled because I "only have
to make one rip cut." I swear I'll never make only one cut without it again!
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