New TS regulations will require Riving Knives on future saws in the US

[Andy Dingley]

The UK HSE recommendation for avoiding this is the use of "Shaw guards" or "tunnel guards".

They're illustrated here:

they're not simple to construct (as an adjustable guard) and probably require both welding and drilled attachments to the machine table, they're worth having. Once you have them, they're certainly worth using. You can also lash-up a one-off for long batches, even if you don't make a neatly adjustable version.

The woodworking index of the HSE site is here:

's well worth the look.

[charlieb]

Though the term "kickback" is often used to describe a table saw flinging a piece of wood and the type that launches it straight back paralleling the sides of the saw blade(the Spear kickback) is the one most obvious one, the Flip and Fling is the one that can go almost anywhere that's not behind the blade.

The Flip and Fling involves ripping short pieces - about the length of the exposed blade above the throat plate. The part, being short, can rotate, even into the small gap between the rear teeth and a riving knife, and make contact with an uprward traveling rear tooth. This begins to lift the short piece off the table - and away from the fence. Once that begins, the part is thrown up into the upper teeth which can flip the part just about anywhere - including left and right of the center line of the arbor shaft. Kelly Mahler (I think that's the spelling) uses a piece of styra foam sheet to demon- strate the Flip and Fling. People are amazed at where the Flipped and Flung piece goes.

Bottom line is Proper Stock Preparation Proper Saw Set Up and Control The Stock

If what you're about to do makes you feel uncomfortable there's probably a reason. Try and come up with another way of doing the operation.

charlie b

[mac davis]

Yeah, but I'd just as soon not have kickback no matter where I'm standing... I've seen pictures of boards through shop walls, knocking things off shelves, etc... I can just picture kicking something back 12 or 15 feet and hitting the grill of the truck.. lol

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[mac davis]

Great info, Charlie!

Also another reason for a good sled... I used to just use a sled for cross cutting but have started using one for ripping small or short pieces, also..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[John Grossbohlin]

I generally agree with George regarding where you stand... it was drilled into my head as a kid. My father had served an apprenticeship as a tool and die maker and he passed some of the knowledge along... where to stand, don't brush chips off with your hand (metal mindset!), don't use the side of the grinding wheel, etc.

With the wheel chair in mind I'd certainly use something like a riving knife or a good splitter like the Biesemeyer T-Square splitter. This as there is no way you could get out of the way fast enough if there was a kick back nor would you have the body leverage to control a problem piece of wood.

I've found the Biesemeyer splitter to be helpful with reaction wood that wants to close up the kerf during cutting. The only time I've had a problem with the splitter was when I didn't put it back in after using the cross-cut sled because I "only have to make one rip cut." I swear I'll never make only one cut without it again! ;~)

John

[Patriarch]

charlieb wrote in news:46A4D877.2535 @accesscom.com:

The one that caught our attention was when the wife and eldest son were talking in the shop whilst I was trying to get the last bit of walnut cut, and then we'd go do something 'important'. The piece that caught the blade, flipped up and smashed the overhead light, before whacking me on the way down changed our plans a bit.

They left the shop, while I cleaned up in the semi-dark...

Patriarch

[Leuf]

I know this is not technically advisable, but this is how I handle short pieces, where short is less than twice the length of the blade, that are too narrow to allow me to run my hand between blade and fence. Cut in half way, pull back out, flip end for end, cut the rest of the way. The stock never reaches the rear teeth so there is no chance of a kickback, and I would just prefer to have my hands on the stock rather than any other contraption for holding it otherwise whenever possible.

-Leuf

[charlieb]

Might want to check out The GRIPPERRRRR. Works really well ripping narrow and / or short pieces. Keeps your hand well above the blade and controls the stock ON BOTH SIDES OF THE CUT.

OR

you can make something similar out of scraps - and add a screen door handle to the top of it.

charlie b

[Upscale]

A long time ago, I experienced wood taking flight before it reached the rear teeth. If you're running wood along the fence and it becomes skewed in between the side of the blade and the fence, you're looking at a kick back in the making long before the rear teeth are reached.

As far as I'm concerned, kick backs and wood being thrown is a possibility despite most precautions. Yup, there's lots one can do to minimize those possibilities, but knowing that it *could* happen means always adopting protective measures and protective stances to lower those possibilities.

[Upscale]

Yup, a biesemeyer type splitter is on the wish list. For now, I'm using the much cheaper Lee Valley Tools MicroJig Splitter.

[Leon]

I use the MJ Splitter also. FIY there is a much more heavy duty version although the microjig.com web site still does not show it. I bought the HD version at the last WW show in April. It fits in larger holes and tapers down to the 1/8" and 3/32" width above the table insert. The HD version is stainless steel covered in translucent plastic.

[Leon]

Exactly!

Yup, there's lots one can do to minimize those

My #2 defense against any kind of kick back is to keep/insure a "firm" hold on the material being cut and use sharp blades. For what ever reason I sometimes feel the material lift and I have been able to keep the piece from flying back by simply exerting more downward pressure. With enough pressure the blade will simply cut into the material rather than catch it and throw it back. I like to think of this procedure as controlling the stock rather than poking it through with the end of a stick. By your description. it sounds like you use similar techniques.

[B A R R Y]

My MJ's kept popping out, and eventually broke, so I switched to a shop-made white oak splitter glued into the zero-clearance insert. To remove the splitter, I swap inserts.

[Leon]

That is what I complained about at the WW show. That is when they pulled out the new stainless steel reinforced version. So far So good.

[Father Haskell]

What type of pusher are you using? The push stick recommended in the operator's manual is worthless, because it holds down the trailing end of the board, opposite the heel end where kickback forces are generated. Use a shoe type, with healthy grip to give you the best fighting chance once the kerf starts going wacky.

[Father Haskell]

Look at a sawblade with positive rake. Very similar to a line of fishhooks, right? Remember why you're never supposed to reach over a spinning blade?

[henry]

Is there a riving knife available for a delta contractor saw. I was going to buy a couple of MJ stainless slitters from Peachtree. One for a throat plate with the blade all the way up 3.25" +- and one for the blade up 1".I now use a gripper for small parts and grip tite mag units when ripping long parts.