this the first year for that arm arrangement
this the first year for that arm arrangement
Do you know something we don't?
Is the arm arrangement different than what was used when the Bosch Axial Glide system was introduced in 2010?
The blade brake is the motor and the motor is offset, so this is a possibility.
I bought my Unisaur from Amazon and also found them to be very responsive.
if it has been around that long than they should have gotten all the issues out by now
first year models of anything can be a risk to buy
maybe they introduced some design change or maybe a new supplier etc
Or maybe it's just a defective unit.
Have you considered the possibility that the particular saw I received is simply defective?
I haven't read a single review that mentioned the specific issue that I am experiencing.
I'll report back once I set up the replacement saw, hopefully this weekend.
Did you purchase Turtlepuss or Needlenose? ;-)
anything is possible but that is always the case
my curiosity is toward manufacturing defects
with the advent of cad and cam it is more interesting as the processes have much better visibility
possible that the unit had rough handling after assembly
maybe during packing
although knew a guy that worked at a bosch plant
he avoided buying bosch products after that experience
so stuff happens but perceptions are carefully managed and prices are priced accordingly
Not every piece of manufactured goods comes out of the box correct. I had a 10" single bevel MS that did that, and man you should have seen how it ac ted up on bevels. Regardless, if the saw will only hold to 1/32", you are doing the right thing to send it back.
I sent my back, too. I cut 5 1/2" wide pieces of cab ply to true it after that was discovered, and I did everything I could think of. Reoriented the blade, put the keeper nut on in a different rotation when tightening, etc.
Finally I wired the blade guard back and held a pencil next to the teeth an d rotated it slowly with the blade tightened on the shaft. Where the blade touched the tip of a tooth (actually it was two), I marked it. Loosened t he blade, rotated it 90 degrees, and the marks when right along with the ne w orientation. Local DeWalt repair shop told me that he didn't know if the inside collet was pressed onto the shaft, or if the shaft was actually par t of the motor.
In any event, after I showed him what I had done he pronounced it "unfixabl e" and gave me a new one.
The point being, probably doesn't matter at this point what the culprit mig ht be, just move on.
Robert
Interesting that CPO now sells a reconditioned unit for $599 while amazon is 549 for a new one.
Same with the 12".. I looked at them 2 years ago, and the cpo units were
100 to 150 less than new... so it's very interesting that the prices have flipped.
Whatever the price, I now have 2 of them! ;-)
UPS just delivered the replacment saw but they haven't picked up the old one yet.
So, now you can cut twice as much. Take advantage and double your shop size!?
Sonny
If I put one behind the other I should be able to cut a 24" board.
I think the recon at CPO is the 12" version, not the 10" version.
I had the same issue with a non-sliding 12" CMS. Ended up being the motor brake (which turns the motor into a generator/load when the switch is released). This (and many other) saws use helical cut gears to transfer motor power to the blade. The change in torque direction when the motor brake gets applied was causing the blade drive gear to shift slightly. I added a thin shim (0.003") to the gear shaft, tightening it up in its housing. Problem eliminated!
Basically came down to bad assembly/setup at the factory.
-BR
I was kind of surprised that no one else had detected what I had... until now.
I wonder what the end play spec is during assembly? Were there any end play shims in evidence when you installed your shim?
John
I'm not sure that your situation applies to mine. The Bosch CM10GD saw is belt driven. There is no direct geared connection between the motor and the blade.
I guess it's possible that the gear at the motor could shift, pull the belt, which would pull the gear at the blade which could move the blade. That's a lot of loose parts and I sure hope that isn't the case.
My Dewalt non-slider has the gear you mention - i.e. the motor is directly connect to the blade (more or less)
Myself. I took a close look at it when I was looking for another SCMS exclusively for shop/personal use, since my personal, elderly Makita was necessarily getting a lot of abuse on jobs.
I normally like Bosch tools, but was leery of the engineering just looking at it, and worried that it might not even stand the test of occasional off site use/abuse ... knowing that it's hard not to bring a high performance tool out to a job site when precision work is required.
That old LS1013 has done a couple of Olympic class 1 1/2's off its mobile stand and is still performing accurately, despite being used/abused on site, including a few Hardie siding jobs which I wasn't sure even it would survive if it was named Festool.
I have a Harbor Freight 10" for outside and construction jobs. I'll have to reside one side of my house this spring but the Bosch will stay in the basement.
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