table saw sleds

seems that everyone uses a sled on their ts
well at least in the videos i have watched
i like the idea and so i am making one or maybe two
if you have a sled do you use the same one for dados or do you have two sleds
small shop and do not want two sleds
thinking of devising an insert so that i have one sled with two inserts
anyone done this
what else is there to know about making the sled
steel versus wood runners
like the idea of steel runners but wood may work fine too metalsupermarkets.com had some cold rolled that would work
my ts has t slots but the sled runners probably should not lock into the slots as they might get caught up
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I've had my TS for better than a decade and I don't have a sled on it. That being said, probably the best place to see different options and determine what you want or maybe more than one is YouTube. Lots of great videos and maybe a scary one or two.
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On 1/31/2017 4:21 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

I Never use a sled with when cutting a dado. That said IIRC you bought a 6" dado set. How deep do you think you can cut if you use a sled?
I do have a left and right Dubby sled and have used them extensively over the past 18 years.

A left and right side sled is handy if you are cutting asymmetrical moldings at an angle.

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On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 15:21:23 -0700

yes the tube has some good ones and some bad ones
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On Monday, January 30, 2017 at 12:51:51 PM UTC-6, Electric Comet wrote:

I have made about three or four. The last one is the best. The one previous went with the TS it was fitted to, when I sold the TS. The absolute best video on how to square the sled to the blade is this one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbG-n--LFgQ

As to your other question, I only use mine for crosscuts. I have two Incra miter jigs that I use for all others (the one I got on Ebay had been dropped and is only accurate on 45degree cuts. The other one [their 1000SE] is used for all other angle cuts.
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On Wed, 1 Feb 2017 08:41:21 -0800 (PST)

yes watched that one and now my feeler gauges have found a new life in the wood shop
like his videos and his jokes
although worrying about a thousandth is a bit much because temps and humidity can work for and against you
aiming for perfection is ok just as long as he does not insist on it and he does not
did you go with steel or wood runners
i have some oily dark hardwood that was given to me and it may be my runner material
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On Wed, 01 Feb 2017 13:04:56 -0800, Electric Comet wrote:

I don't know what he used, but I've used Kreg's and Incra's metal runners with success. But the ones I like the best are the plastic ones. Do a search for "UHMW runners".
--
What if a much of a which of a wind gives the truth to summer's lie?

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On Wed, 1 Feb 2017 22:04:35 +0000 (UTC)

good idea
my fence is faced with that
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On Wed, 1 Feb 2017 22:04:35 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard

Peachtree sells piles of UHMW in all shapes an sizes. It's pretty easy to work.
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wrote in message wrote: >>I don't know what he used, but I've used Kreg's and Incra's metal runners

I've been buying large plastic cutting boards at Wally World and using them for various projects... easily available and inexpensive.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-15X20-Cutting-Board/13397990 Approximately 11/32" x 15" x 20"
I hadn't considered using them for runners on my sled but that is an appealing idea as the fit of the wooden ones changes with the humidity.
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On Wed, 1 Feb 2017 22:00:18 -0500

had not thought of that but a good idea

yes and maybe better than cold rolled steel just for the cost and the facts
no rust slippery forever decent wear
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On Wed, 01 Feb 2017 21:20:01 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@notreal.com wrote:

Just requires special effort to glue it, or does Testors work?
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On Thu, 02 Feb 2017 10:13:10 -0600, Markem wrote:

Never tried. It holds screws. I put a screw in about every 5-6 inches to hold my sleds to the runners.
--
What if a much of a which of a wind gives the truth to summer's lie?

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On Thursday, February 2, 2017 at 8:13:11 AM UTC-8, Markem wrote:

Rivets. Pop rivets. Screws will cause stretching...
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On Thu, 02 Feb 2017 14:29:21 -0800, whit3rd wrote:

I predrill, which minimizes any stretching/widening. A couple of passes thru the table slot usually removes any that's left. If not, a pass with a block plane or even sandpaper will. UHMW is "soft*.
--
What if a much of a which of a wind gives the truth to summer's lie?

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On 2/2/17 4:29 PM, whit3rd wrote:

That's not really a bad thing. On mine, I put slits in the runner on the fore and aft ends. I installed flat-head screws through those slits which will act to expand the width of the runner. It's a great way to fine tune the runners in the slot.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On 2/1/17 9:41 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:

it was fitted to, when I sold the TS. The absolute best video on how to square the sled to the blade is this one:

I have two Incra miter jigs that I use for all others (the one I got on Ebay
had been dropped and is only accurate on 45degree cuts.
The other one [their 1000SE] is used for all other angle cuts.

The William Ng technique is excellent. Get the fence square with this method, lock it down, and never worry about it again (until you accidentally cut the fence in two).
I have the 1000 Incra, great product, but the miter bar really sucks for my overwidth unisaw slots. I replaced the wear-prone nylon expanding discs with a bunch of ball tipped set screws. Next time I'm just going to get a steel bar machined to fit.
Having a dedicated jig for 45s that is dialed in is a real timesaver if you do frequent miters.
-BR
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On Sat, 4 Feb 2017 08:17:01 -0700

it is a good idea but not his originally fwiw
maybe better name for the technique is error amplification

have to make sure the miter fence is higher than the max blade height
some even place an aluminum brace across the top or plastic

this makes sense and i see this in a lot of the sled vids
although some have a complete sled just for 45s
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