dimensions. . .I would be interested in some dimension you all have = built. I don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a = Delta contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta = mobile base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners = will be red oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. = Any suggestions and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done = extensive web searching with at least 4 different search engines and = nothing strikes me as what I would like.=20 TIA.
don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a Delta contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta mobile base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners will be red oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. Any suggestions and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done extensive web searching with at least 4 different search engines and nothing strikes me as what I would like.
I have exactly the saw set up you have.
Get Fred Bingham's book, Practical Yacht Joinery from the library and read the section on what he calls a SLAT, everybody here calls a sled.
After you read his reasons for making what he made, it may have some impact on what you build.
BTW, I build Bingham's version using 9 ply for the base and 13 ply for the fence.
I used 1/4" for the body panel. It is lighter and gets you a 1/4" closer to the saw. Just a bit more difficult to attach the fences. It has held up fine for a year now. (I also used 5/4 oak for the fences, but if you didn't happen to buy more than you will ever use for $0.50/bf, you probably wouldn't want to do that.)
I have three in the shop right now. The most useful is a smaller one I just made a couple of weeks ago to cut a ton of drawer parts. It will cut a 13" panel if need be, but is the perfect size for about 90% of the smaller parts like aprons, table legs and drawer sides.
I've always had a tendency to use my sliding miter saw for crosscuts, but since making this particular sled I've been reaching for it instead.
Nothing fancy, but there is a picture, and some rough dimensions, on the Jigs portion of my site below ...if you have any questions, just ask away.
I made one using a 24x48" piece of 1/2 inch birch ply -- I used the whole piece. Like you, I have a Delta Contractor Saw, and I like the stability of the sled this size. I can crosscut pieces up to about 22" wide.
One tip I came across when searching for plans was to cut a small rabbet along the bottom of the front fence (closer to you) to give the sawdust someplace to accumulate.
I used UHMW strips for the runners, because I didn't have any hardwood around.
Here's a couple URL's I saved when I was search> dimensions. . .I would be interested in some dimension you all have built. I
don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a Delta contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta mobile base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners will be red oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. Any suggestions and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done extensive web searching with at least 4 different search engines and nothing strikes me as what I would like.
Mine is 1/2" plywood, runners are hard maple, and the rear fence is 2x1/2" laminated plywood, about 8" high. The front fence is just a chunk of 2x6, neither as wide nor as flat as the other.
For years my rear fence was just glued onto the base, but after it got knocked over a couple of times (I leave it on the floor standing under the TS extension wing when I'm not using it) the wood (not the glue) gave way. So now it's screwed and glued in place. Make sure you don't screw it where the blade's going to go!
I periodically screw a block of wood at a 45 degree angle onto the middle of the sled. It's 90 degree leading corner acts as a fence when I want to cut complementary miters for picture frames and the like. Just make sure your rear fence isn't so wide that you're limited in the length of stock you can miter. Moving the block closer to the front of the sled would also give you more width to play with at the fence line. My rear fence is 28" wide.
The total width of the sled is 4'. It's depth is a little less than the depth of the table saw. You want to make sure it's not going to want to tip over once you push the fence past the centre of the blade. Sometimes mine does this and it's annoying, but it only does it when I go too far, maybe on the day I give the bottom a fresh rubbing of wax.
I can search local libraries online but I do not see that book listed, = tho I may have a chance at books-a-million. I am leaning towards what = seems to be a 'large' sled'. I will gather parts cut to size and check = weight then decide if smaller is better! Thanks.
--=20 SwampBug
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built. I don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a = Delta contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta = mobile base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners = will be red oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. = Any suggestions and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done = extensive web searching with at least 4 different search engines and = nothing strikes me as what I would like.=20
I have exactly the saw set up you have.
Get Fred Bingham's book, Practical Yacht Joinery from the library and=20 read the section on what he calls a SLAT, everybody here calls a sled.
After you read his reasons for making what he made, it may have some=20 impact on what you build.
BTW, I build Bingham's version using 9 ply for the base and 13 ply for=20 the fence.
I like the proportions of your sled tho I find no dimensions. I am = thinking 20x44 for the base but I will still have to use 2x lumber for = fences. . .dressed of course. thanks.
--=20 SwampBug
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I have three in the shop right now. The most useful is a smaller one I = just made a couple of weeks ago to cut a ton of drawer parts. It will cut a =
13" panel if need be, but is the perfect size for about 90% of the smaller = parts like aprons, table legs and drawer sides.
I've always had a tendency to use my sliding miter saw for crosscuts, = but since making this particular sled I've been reaching for it instead.
Nothing fancy, but there is a picture, and some rough dimensions, on the Jigs portion of my site below ...if you have any questions, just ask = away.
Thanks for the links and the tip on the sawdust relief. . .capital idea! =
I'll need a helper to move that thang to the sawer. . .
--=20 SwampBug
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One tip I came across when searching for plans was to cut a small rabbet =
along the bottom of the front fence (closer to you) to give the=20 sawdust someplace to accumulate.
I used UHMW strips for the runners, because I didn't have any hardwood=20 around.
Here's a couple URL's I saved when I was searching. Good luck, and have =
fun!
formatting link
dimensions. . .I would be interested in some dimension you all have =
built. I don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a = Delta contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta = mobile base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners = will be red oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. = Any suggestions and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done = extensive web searching with at least 4 different search engines and = nothing strikes me as what I would like.=20
I will consider the 'miter' feature with a shortened back fence. I may = have need of that in the near future if I can't tame my Dewalt 12" CMS. = How did you orient the grain in the runners, along the width(3/4") or = the height(3/8")? Thanks
--=20 SwampBug
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suggestions=20
Mine is 1/2" plywood, runners are hard maple, and the rear fence is =
2x1/2"=20 laminated plywood, about 8" high. The front fence is just a chunk of =
2x6,=20 neither as wide nor as flat as the other.
For years my rear fence was just glued onto the base, but after it got=20 knocked over a couple of times (I leave it on the floor standing under = the=20 TS extension wing when I'm not using it) the wood (not the glue) gave = way.=20 So now it's screwed and glued in place. Make sure you don't screw it = where=20 the blade's going to go!
I periodically screw a block of wood at a 45 degree angle onto the = middle of=20 the sled. It's 90 degree leading corner acts as a fence when I want to = cut=20 complementary miters for picture frames and the like. Just make sure = your=20 rear fence isn't so wide that you're limited in the length of stock you = can=20 miter. Moving the block closer to the front of the sled would also give = you=20 more width to play with at the fence line. My rear fence is 28" wide.
The total width of the sled is 4'. It's depth is a little less than the =
depth of the table saw. You want to make sure it's not going to want to = tip=20 over once you push the fence past the centre of the blade. Sometimes = mine=20 does this and it's annoying, but it only does it when I go too far, = maybe on=20 the day I give the bottom a fresh rubbing of wax.
may have a chance at books-a-million. I am leaning towards what seems to be a 'large' sled'. I will gather parts cut to size and check weight then decide if smaller is better! Thanks.
"Swingman" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
Mine look like Swingman's, for some strange reason. ;-) And I agree, the smallest gets the most use, and seems to be the most accurate.
The front and back fences in mine are dressed KD Vertical Grain Douglas Fir. A $20 2x6 that started straight and has stayed straight. An oak safety block has been attached to the blade exit point where thumbs might otherwise be endangered.
Oh, I will go there and inquire, bypass the 'modern conveniences'. . = . Thanks again.
--=20 SwampBug
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tho I may have a chance at books-a-million. I am leaning towards what = seems to be a 'large' sled'. I will gather parts cut to size and check = weight then decide if smaller is better! Thanks.
I'm not sure. I have long grain parallel to the miter slot, and the runner fills the width of the slot, but not the depth (leaving room for some sawdust below it). In really humid weather it might make enough difference for me to add a bit of wax but I've never had any problems with binding or with slop. Maybe I don't understand the question.
I apologize for the poorly worded question. Let me try this approach. . = .if you view a runner on end as it sits on the saw , is the end grain = vertical or horizontal? Seems like it would make a difference somehow. . = .maybe it won't but I would still to know. =20
--=20 SwampBug
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I'm not sure. I have long grain parallel to the miter slot, and the = runner=20 fills the width of the slot, but not the depth (leaving room for some=20 sawdust below it). In really humid weather it might make enough = difference=20 for me to add a bit of wax but I've never had any problems with binding = or=20 with slop. Maybe I don't understand the question.
don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a Delta contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta mobile base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners will be red oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. Any suggestions and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done extensive web searching with at least 4 different search engines and nothing strikes me as what I would like.
I must have at least a half dozen sleds that I use on both of my Tablesaws...and the demensions are all completely different... The demensions are all determined by the intended use of the sled...
I do not like HEAVY sleds...but some (especially the larger ones are HEAVY... ) most of mine are made with 3/4 inch Ply...although I do have a few made with 1/2 inch ply....
I gave up long ago on using wood for runners prefer to use Phenolic like plastic (forgot the real name of the material) and I spend twice as long "fitting the runners" as I do constructing the sled... The wood runners swell or contracts etc...
I think Bob has hit on it. You can't just have one. I have a big sled, dual runner, about 20x40 on 1/2" plywood base and a smallish (about 16" square) single runner sled that actully get most of the use.
Some times you need big with support on both sides of the kerf, but that is bulky. Other times small is just fine.
As an aside, I recently added a fixture to my single sided sled. Its a stop that reaches past (over) the blade. I made this for shoulder cuts on tennons so that the offcut could fall down to the table. That is, the trimmed piece was *not* in contact with the base of the sled, *not* in catact with the fence and *not* in contact with the stop block. It's just safer that way.
-Steve
built. I don't want to build one I need help moving to the saw. I have a Delta contractor style saw with 30" Unifence and extension on a Delta mobile base. The panel body will be 1/2" Baltic birch, the two runners will be red oak and the front and rear fences will be from 2x lumber. Any suggestions and/or caveats would be much appreciated. I have done extensive web searching with at least 4 different search engines and nothing strikes me as what I would like.
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