If doing that even the cheapadapter won't be stressed.
If doing that even the cheapadapter won't be stressed.
Using a torque wrench to break nuts loose is like using a micrometer as a substitute for a Crescent wrench. A torque wrench is a measuring instrument--using it to apply brute force is likely to impair its accuracy.
While I was the first to mention that using a torque wrench to loosen a lug nut is probably not the best choice of tool, your reasoning wasn't why. As long as the "brute force" applied is within the specs of the tool, you aren't going to hurt it.
In other words, a torque wrench set to 100 ft-lbs isn't going to be harmed by loosening a nut torqued to 80. The "brute force" required to loosen the 80 ft-lb nut is less than the "controlled force" you'd use to tighten a 100 ft-lb nut. The wrench wouldn't even click.
That said, I still wouldn't use a torque wrench if another choice was available. Why put more wear and tear on the relatively more expensive tool when a cheap breaker bar will suffice?
snipped-for-privacy@ccanoemail.ca on Fri, 05 Apr 2019 22:38:06 -0400 typed in rec.woodworking the following:
And that is why I still have the four point lug wrench (the kind like a big X) I got for my first car (63 Ford Fairlane). Because sure as the Lord made sweet potatoes, I'm not going to have any impact tool handy when I get a flat and need to break those lugnuts loose.
A filet-o-fish meal (sandwich, fries, drink, not supersized) costs $10.50 as per my neighbor who was shocked that a $10 bill didn't cover it (I personally prefer an order of Pad Thai Gee or House Chow Fun myself if I have to eat fast food; although generally I patronize the Fish Market).
You know, my electric impact wrench, which will either break lugnuts loose or failing that break the stud, takes up less space than the four-point lug wrench. Costs a lot more too, but that's a detail.
How long is your extension cord?
There are some very capable (and exoensive) battery powered 1/2 inch drive impacts (as well as some very cheasy and useless 12 volt ones)
Battery-powered, cordless tools are indeed "electric."
Battery is electric.
J. Clarke on Sat, 06 Apr 2019 18:48:36
-0400 typed >>>>>> >>>> > snipped-for-privacy@ccanoemail.ca on Fri, 05 Apr 2019 22:38:06 -0400 typed in
So how long is the cord for the battery charger?
Either way, while an electrically powered impact driver is better than none, it is also requires electricity to operate.
Reminds me of the old joke, they guy comes home and his wife informs him that the power has been out all day, so they're going to have to eat out. "But we have a gas stove and refrigerator!" he says. "Yes, but we only have the one _electric_ can opener."
And that battery, is it currently at full charge?
Remember the old definition of "Flashlight"? A tube for the storing of dead batteries." In the old days they were Aluminum tubes and alkaline batteries, but they're still storage devices for dead batteries.
" snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com" on Fri, 5 Apr
2019 18:13:28 -0700 (PDT) typed >>Good for you.
You've recognized that you have just save some money. True, $1.21 isn't a lot, but it adds up.
Like I said: glad to see that you always buy top of the line, brand new, at manufacturers suggested retail price. Someone has to pay retail so the stores can stay open.
J. Clarke on Sat, 06 Apr 2019 12:45:39
-0400 typed in rec.woodworking the following:
But that electric impact wrench, is it battery powered, or "corded". And how do you keep the batteries charged? One less thing to worry about with mechanical, non-electronic tools. It is a trade off.
A battery IS electric. Sure isn'r air or gas.
And a decent inverter can run a corded electric too. - off the car battery
If it's Nicad youcan make book on itbeing dead. If it's lithium the chances are excellent that it's held a charge.
I can charge ANY of my cordless tools off my 1996 Ranger - or my 2015 Kia Sorento.
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