headers, how big? 6" 8" or 10"

Greetings

I'm intending to add a two foot square window to a shed which is being converted into shop space. The wall is load bearing, there is a loft and the joist holding that up are attached to the studs I'll have to cut. So, header to spread the load. I'm reading about they need to be wide (tall) enough: And they run from six to 10".

Recommendations?

Reply to
pyotr filipivich
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6" is sufficient for that span. If you have 8" 2Xs, use that.

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

Studs ? You need to cut more than 1 stud for a 2 ft. opening ? How long is the span that you are creating ? ... has this one already been discussed .. to death ? John T.

Reply to
hubops

With a shed I would say a 2x6's would be plenty, you will be using 2 side by side.

Reply to
Leon

I would think that more information is needed. How big is the shed? You have said there are lofts. Are they over the windows? or is the window in the side under the loft. Is it the gable end or a side?

Reply to
knuttle

You would if the studs were 16" OC and you want the 24" window in a space where 2 studs exist.

I guess that would depend on whether new king studs are added or if the jack studs are secured to the existing studs once the 2 for the window opening are removed. It could approach 48" if no new king studs are added.

Sort of. We went around in circles but never really got the details of what size header was actually required since we never - just like now - never got the full details as to size of the opening.

Here we go again. ;-)

Reply to
DerbyDad03

In my mind I'm imagining someone with a camera, like maybe the one in a cell phone, taking pictures and then posting links to them here in the group. Then we wouldn't have to keep asking questions trying to figure what you have.

You said: "...there is a loft and the joist holding that up are attached to the studs..."

I assume you mean "joists" not joist.

What I don't understand is what you mean by "attached to the studs". The joists are attached directly to the studs? They're not sitting on the top plate of the wall? Is the sheathing the only thing that has kept the wall from racking itself to it's death?

Maybe this will you help you understand (and explain to us) what you have and what you should be doing.

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Reply to
DerbyDad03

Size of the opening is 2 feet wide by 2 feet high ("a two foot square window"). Two studs 24" OC, with a second stud 3" to the left of 'that one over there on the left:":

|...|.......................|

Plan A is to figure where the T-1 panels on the outside meet, and work from there. Plan B is just hack a hole and make it fit. Okay, maybe not "hack" but work from the inside out ... details to be determined. "We'll just see how it all flows organically."

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

That is what I discovered after I posted. 2x6 I got.

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

knuttle on Wed, 12 Aug 2020 10:22:49

-0400 typed >> 6" is sufficient for that span. If you have 8" 2Xs, use that. >> >> Sonny >>

Due to code issues, that is not a "second story" or an "attic" but a "storage loft" It just looks like an attic, but it is not.

The studs I want to cut have the joists hung from them, so I consider them load bearing.

Next year, maybe, I'll be able to get to the other (North) wall and that wall is the gable end, no load."

If I'd known all this when I was refurbishing the original, I'd have done everything completely different.

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

snipped-for-privacy@ccanoemail.ca on Wed, 12 Aug 2020 09:45:27 -0400 typed in rec.woodworking the following:

If I am going to do a "proper frame up" I need at least 23 1/2" +

2* 1.5" = 26 1/2". Due to the original construction, cutting the one stud leaves me with a gap 26 1/4". (Cutting the other stud give me ~ 45" and I can fit something in there.)

Yes.

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

You didn't address my question about how the joists are "attached to the studs". Are they really not sitting on the top plate of the wall? Are you really depending on the shear strength of screws/nails to support the loft?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

What, in your mind, is a "proper frame up". Do you know what a king stud is? A jack stud? A cripple stud?

When you say "Cutting the other stud give me ~ 45" and I can fit something in there" do you know what that *something* is called?

My point here is that we (or at least me) are having a really hard time figuring out what you understand and what you don't. Maybe you know everything there is to know about properly adding a header in a load bearing wall but your responses don't make that clear. If you had said "Cutting the other stud gives me ~ 45" and I'll put king studs where I need them", then we'd have a better idea as to your level of knowledge. However, when you say you'll fit "something" in there, well, we certainly have to wonder if you know what the proper "something" is.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Or, more properly stated "I have an attic that does not meet code."

You can't (shouldn't) say it's *not* an attic if indeed it is. "Code issues" don't magically turn one thing into another - unless of course the building inspector agrees to it. ;-)

Reply to
DerbyDad03

It isn't closed off, so ...

My first line of defense is to not get noticed.

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

Yep.

Yep. King studs, jack studs, an header, and a framing for a window wider than 2 feet and less than 4 feet.

Sorry I didn't go into excruciating detail. Do you need to know all the size nails I'll be using too?

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

DerbyDad03 on Wed, 12 Aug 2020 09:52:08 -0700 (PDT) typed in rec.woodworking the following:

Nope.

Yep. And OSB on the inside.

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

Relax people .. ... from the previous thread - it's a 10 x 10 ft. shed with a 6 ft. extension tacked on ... I think ? John T.

Reply to
hubops

Sooner or later someone is going to tell you to get an engineer to look at it.

Reply to
swalker

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