Black and Decker Bandsaw 9411 Type I

[Keith Nuttle]

To start off I realize it is a cheap saw and I could do better, but for $25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in woodworking.

Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25, and thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and downloaded all of the manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well maintained but not used for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the table and in the knobs gave that away.)

Based on the manual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think it works perfectly. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared to burn the wood slightly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any burning I thought there may be a little rust on the blade.

Me question is a slight burning on the curves normal with this type of bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.

[Keith Nuttle]

Thanks for the link, since I am new to this the more information the better.

However the answer to your question based on the information on that site is "No, I did not try to do a greater radius than is capable of the blade".

Never having used a bandsaw I cut conservative curves with radius of 2" to 3" vs what is recommended on that site for a 3/8" blade of 1" to 1

1/4". In fact it is a surprise to me that a 3/8" blade is capable of a 1" radius.

As I said I am new to this toy.

[Artemus]

Are you exceeding the minimum turning radius?

[Bill]

Next (obvious) thing: Is the blade sharp?

[Keith Nuttle]

OP: We are working on that question.

In the few cuts I have made it seems to cut OK.

Would a dull blade cause burning.

[Artemus]

And does it have the proper amount of set? Too little set will result in a larger minimum turning radius. A new blade may be in order. Be sure your guide blocks are adjusted behind the teeth of the blade or you could ruin it instantly. Art

[Larry Jaques]

(And installed in the right direction?)

-- "When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty." - Thomas Jefferson

[Puckdropper]

Bill wrote in news: [e-mail]:

What about the back of the blade? Is it square or rounded?

The books I read suggested rounding the back of the blade with a stone to make it easier to cut curves.

Puckdropper

[Bill]

He can work onthe old blade if he wants while he's trying a new blade! : )

[dadiOH]

Anything that impedes the cutting could. That includes a blade that is dull, too wide, too many TPI, too little tooth set, type of wood, etc.

[Leon]

I bought that saw new about 30 years ago, I think I paid about $80. I would say that yours is probably a least 25 years old. Yours was well maintained most likely because it was probably never used very much. Mine was not. Any way IIRC the blade guides were not the typically expected material. Burning from the blade can be caused by exceeding the radius that the blade was designed for. The set in the teeth and width of the blade pretty much dictate the radius that it is capable of cutting with out burning. The distance from the back corner of the blade to the outer most cutting point of the blade on the opposite side is what determines the smallest possible radius. With the same width blade but with greater or less set in the teeth you will get a greater or less amount of tight radius capacity. Basically once the back corner of the blade starts to touch the wood you run the risk of burning the wood. FWIW this saw was marginal when brand new, I never ever used mine past setting it up that I recall. IMHO the saw is best used for 1/4" soft material and or balsa.

[tiredofspam]

What no one seems to have mentioned is :

How fast you are moving the wood. If you are moving too slow it can burn. There is a proper feed rate for a band saw. Too slow the wood is in contact with the blade too long. To fast and you will bog the unit down, or you can bind, or snap a small blade.

The type of wood, both pine and cherry burn more quickly.

[Leon]

If you are using a crap blade, otherwise the kerf should be wider than the body of the blade.

[tiredofspam]

[Larry Blanchard]

Not only that, it often reduces the drift.

[Keith Nuttle]

OP: I did not realize to slow would cause burning.

Thank everyone who has helped me with my new "toy".

[Dave]

On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 16:13:00 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard

Is this something that is already done for you on quality blades or is it something that should be done by every band saw owner?

[Artemus]

No. Such a thing has never been made before. Art

[Puckdropper]

Dave wrote in news: [e-mail]:

The Woodslicer and Woodturner blades from Highland Hardware both had rounded backs when I got them.

Puckdropper

[loose65]

On Wednesday, March 28, 2012 6:50:45 PM UTC-5, keith [e-mail] wrot e:

25 I thought it was a good deal to work a bandsaw into my needs in woodwork ing. Question: I picked it up at a yard sale with three blades for $25, and thought it would be a good starter bandsaw. I brought it home and download ed all of the manual and parts list. I spent most of Monday cleaning it up. (Though it was obviously well maintained but not used for a long time. Mud Wasp nest under the table and in the knobs gave that away.) Based on the m anual I adjusted the alignment, and turned it on. I think it works perfectl y. I did some play cuts, and noticed that it appeared to burn the wood slig htly when I cut curves. Since I did not smell any burning I thought there m ay be a little rust on the blade. Me question is a slight burning on the cu rves normal with this type of bandsaw, or is it something I am doing.

I have this model and can NOT keep and thin (3/16" wide blade on the saw? It keep jumping off the wheels?