Black and Decker Bandsaw 9411 Type I

Thanks for the link, since I am new to this the more information the better.

However the answer to your question based on the information on that site is "No, I did not try to do a greater radius than is capable of the blade".

Never having used a bandsaw I cut conservative curves with radius of 2" to 3" vs what is recommended on that site for a 3/8" blade of 1" to 1

As I said I am new to this toy.

Are you exceeding the minimum turning radius?

Next (obvious) thing: Is the blade sharp?

OP: We are working on that question.

In the few cuts I have made it seems to cut OK.

Would a dull blade cause burning.

And does it have the proper amount of set? Too little set will result in a larger minimum turning radius. A new blade may be in order. Be sure your guide blocks are adjusted behind the teeth of the blade or you could ruin it instantly. Art

(And installed in the right direction?)

-- "When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty." - Thomas Jefferson

Bill wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news3.newsguy.com:

What about the back of the blade? Is it square or rounded?

The books I read suggested rounding the back of the blade with a stone to make it easier to cut curves.

Puckdropper

He can work onthe old blade if he wants while he's trying a new blade! : )

Anything that impedes the cutting could. That includes a blade that is dull, too wide, too many TPI, too little tooth set, type of wood, etc.

I bought that saw new about 30 years ago, I think I paid about $80. I would say that yours is probably a least 25 years old. Yours was well maintained most likely because it was probably never used very much. Mine was not. Any way IIRC the blade guides were not the typically expected material. Burning from the blade can be caused by exceeding the radius that the blade was designed for. The set in the teeth and width of the blade pretty much dictate the radius that it is capable of cutting with out burning. The distance from the back corner of the blade to the outer most cutting point of the blade on the opposite side is what determines the smallest possible radius. With the same width blade but with greater or less set in the teeth you will get a greater or less amount of tight radius capacity. Basically once the back corner of the blade starts to touch the wood you run the risk of burning the wood. FWIW this saw was marginal when brand new, I never ever used mine past setting it up that I recall. IMHO the saw is best used for 1/4" soft material and or balsa.

What no one seems to have mentioned is :

How fast you are moving the wood. If you are moving too slow it can burn. There is a proper feed rate for a band saw. Too slow the wood is in contact with the blade too long. To fast and you will bog the unit down, or you can bind, or snap a small blade.

The type of wood, both pine and cherry burn more quickly.

If you are using a crap blade, otherwise the kerf should be wider than the body of the blade.

Not only that, it often reduces the drift.

OP: I did not realize to slow would cause burning.

Thank everyone who has helped me with my new "toy".

On Thu, 29 Mar 2012 16:13:00 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard

Is this something that is already done for you on quality blades or is it something that should be done by every band saw owner?

No. Such a thing has never been made before. Art

Dave wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

The Woodslicer and Woodturner blades from Highland Hardware both had rounded backs when I got them.

Puckdropper

On Wednesday, March 28, 2012 6:50:45 PM UTC-5, keith snipped-for-privacy@sbcglobal.net wrot e:

I have this model and can NOT keep and thin (3/16" wide blade on the saw? It keep jumping off the wheels?