Why are motors not current limited?

It can tell if an anti-lock sensor has failed on some - but can't tell if pads or rotors etc are worn.

How much portable 3KW equipment do you have? It is pretty hard to find anything you can carry around except your 2kw tea pots that is more than 1440w. We are not in that big a hurry to drink tea ... or drink tea at all. I drink iced tea but I cold brew that.

All of our 15a 120v equipment is listed to plug into 15 or 20 a circuits. The only reason they have a separate 20a plug is for things that draw more than 15a. They are actually pretty rare, virtually everything has a 15a plug on it.

You can obviously plug a 2 pin plug into a 3 pin outlet.

If the sword man got out much he would understand once you get into industrial locations there are lots of different plugs. Computer equipment in Europe uses all the same plugs as we do these days. The IEC 309 (big stuff) and IEC 13/14 (small stuff) has become pretty much standard. Once you get away from the line cord, there are lots of different plugs used on individual pieces of equipment. When IBM ships overseas the only thing we change is the plug on wall end of the line cord.

It would make JWS happy.

Just remember that there is a RAT in every democRAT.

No, there is only one that's used for portable appliances.

It feeds just fine. 15A < 20A, idjit!

A 2-1/2HP drill? I'd like to see you stall that sucker (and wind your arm right around it).

So what? If you're redesigning the kitchen, everything is moving anyway. Given the average kitchen remodel is over $30K, a couple hundred for rewiring isn't even on the radar.

Do you really do such stupid things over there?

Sure. What's the problem? Most outlets are 20A circuits (required many places). Only lighting circuits tend to be 15A. Makes the wiring cheaper.

Almost all plugs are 15A. There is a NEMA5-20, which is upwards compatible (takes either a 15A or 20A plug) but they're rare.

You move your stove into your bedroom? Do idiots really do such stupid things?

No, it's not complicated. You're just too stupid to understand.

There is no need.

A pair of shorts?

Moving a dryer is hardly "redesigning stuff".

te:

He thinks hand tools require massive power for some reason.

n your kitchen?

It's probably thousands for a typical rewire, but you'd have to do it anywa y. My fridge, for example, is counter-depth, it has a receptacle right behind it. If I put it somewhere else, the odds that you're going to have a receptacle in the right place is small. And I doubt that in the UK double ovens are on the same circuit as all the other appliances, on just a routine receptacle, so that you just move ovens to the other side of the room and plug it in. Again, my ovens are hardwired, the connection is behind the ovens. If I move them, I have to move the circuit .

More likely he;s in a one room efficiency. His oven is a microwave, his fridge a mini one, with extensions running all over the place.

wn special circuit. Only a cooker really.

gies. You're currently driving on both sides of the road with two voltages . Im suggesting you gradually move to one of them.

Not complicated at all. All my moveable appliances are 120V, I can plug then in anywhere. The dryer, it's on a 240V 30A receptacle, which provides

ou drive on ONE side. But with electrics we have ONE voltage and you have TWO. It's not about CHANGING voltage, it's about phasing out one of them.

ere you want it. We have one type of socket available all over the house, I can put it where I want, no rewiring. And as for the cost of wiring the house with double thickness cabl for lower voltage, and another wire for th e extra voltage....

g, I just move the dryer.

All the houses I've lived in, never had a need to move the dryer, except when replacing it. And if it's a remodel that involves moving the laundry room, then like you say, typically a lot more is involved than just supplying power. A lot of dryers are gas, I suppose we should have gas connection points in every room in the house too, on the chance that someone wants to run the dryer in the living room.

They obviously can, as most cars have a wear sensor on the pads that makes a light come on the dash.

Ralph Mowery posted for all of us...

We called them lick and stick...

And there's a 2.2kW angle grinder sat to my left. Where the f*ck would you plug that in in your home?

But you're plugging a 15A plug into a 20A socket, with 20A protection....

Yet more complications.

I wasn't talking about industry.

On Wed, 25 Apr 2018 20:20:57 +0100, Tekkie=AE wrote= :

We don't have stickers, we have such a thing as a computer database. Ye= s, even in Wales.

-- =

I bought a vacuum cleaner six months ago and so far all it's been doing = is gathering dust.

ere in the house. Power tools, fan heaters, kettles, irons, two things on one adapter, there are so many things that half the power just ain't enough for. It's so much more convenient in the UK to be able to power anything in any room from any socket.

water to make coffee, tea, or to put in a saucepan to cook food?

If "I'm cooking, I heat the saucepan on the range, like normal people. We have electric kettles that go up to 1800 watts. I don't think I'm going to rewire all the houses in America to get to 2400. Besides, the one I have heats fast enough. There is almost always something else to do while the water is heating, eg cleaning the old coffee out of the French press, grinding the coffee, finding the muffins, etc.

ou plug that in in your home?

Again, I think you're hung up with specs that you don't understand. I can show you shop vacs that are rated at "6 hp". They plug into a 15A receptacl e. Does it really develop 6 hp and pull the power that would require? no. I suspect your angle grinder rating is based on a locked rotor or similar, not actual usage. We have all kinds of angle grinders, including big, heavy duty ones that are 9", that come with a 120V, 15A plug and work fine

ere in the house. Power tools, fan heaters, kettles, irons, two things on one adapter, there are so many things that half the power just ain't enough for. It's so much more convenient in the UK to be able to power anything in any room from any socket.

water to make coffee, tea, or to put in a saucepan to cook food?

ou plug that in in your home?

Being in the USA, I wouldn't be so stupid as to buy a 240V grinder knowing that our voltage is 120V. I'd buy a 120V, 2200 Watt one, like this Dewalt that I could plug in.

Anything else I can help you with today?

And yet you keep on reading my posts. Is this a sign of true love?

Why on earth would that be required?

I never said you have to make them look like ours. And I never said you'd need to change all of them at once. I used the word gradual remember?

Which is?

Really? Does a breaker care what the voltage is?

Even if they did, you can change a couple at a time.

Switches will work way above their voltage rating if you're not drawing maximum current. I've used a 12VDC switch rated at 10 amps to control a 240V light at 1 amp.

People who litter their posts with capitals and exclamation marks have OCD!

At half the current, they are half as thick. I dread to think what your Hoover wires are like.

And magically you'd inherit all those?

Actually I have a couple of adapters on the desk to my left. They will take any plug from USA, Australia, China, EU or the UK, and some others, I think the total was 8 completely different types. They just have some odd shaped holes which are a combination of all the different prong positions. Very handy as I can buy cheap stuff off Ebay from abroad and just plug it straight in.

Please disable your capslock key.

But there are more things in use that draw power. Think back to when you were a child and had a single lightbulb and a TV set in the room.

KISS.

Good point.

Also I know the UK "Liberal Democrat" is left wing, and so is your "Democrat". But what are your Liberals?

On Wednesday, April 25, 2018 at 4:52:05 PM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wro te:

te:

d need to change all of them at once. I used the word gradual remember?

They do care, because a 120V breaker only contacts one hot. A 240V breaker contacts two hots and takes two slots in the panel So, you're going to run out of free breaker slots and need a new panel. All that expense to solve a problem that only you think exists.

aximum current. I've used a 12VDC switch rated at 10 amps to control a 240 V light at 1 amp.

Ain't that special? The village idiot that's bitching because he thinks we should have a fuse in every plug for safety, now says it's OK to use equipment beyond it's rating.

Hoover wires are like.

ake any plug from USA, Australia, China, EU or the UK, and some others, I t hink the total was 8 completely different types. They just have some odd s haped holes which are a combination of all the different prong positions. Very handy as I can buy cheap stuff off Ebay from abroad and just plug it s traight in.

were a child and had a single lightbulb and a TV set in the room.

The big loads:

Ovens Range Stove Dryer Central AC Water heater

They are all 240V and with the exception of the dryer and stove are direct wired on their own circuits. The dryer and stove have their own dedicated 30 0r 40A receptacle where they are located. And where they stay. Unlike the UK, where apparently you move those around to various other rooms in the house. Go figure.

And that's about right. Sure we have more devices like tablets, smartphone s, LCD TVs. But they use little power. The reduction with more energy efficient AC, lighting, TV, furnace blowers, etc has more than offset the increase in number of appliances.