Looking at the wiring parts list that you provided, i see no mention of hi
or low pressure refrigerant cutoffs. If the motor continues to run and it is
the compressor kicking off, the problem is going to be the thermostat or as
pointed out by another user, an external overload under the compressor cap.
If the entire unit is kicking out, that is, the fan and the compressor, you
could have a faulty thermostat or selector switch.
Without being there, this is the best I can do for you. 40 seems a bit cool
but is possible. You stated that you removed the unit and cleaned the coils.
I assume you cleaned both the evaporator and condenser coils. Also make sure
the filter is clean.
As stated in my previous post, my bet is on the thermostat.
Tomorrow is my day to work on this again.
As to the 20 years.....this unit has actually been used very little,
and has been well protected during the off season.
Here's why I'm reluctant to just dump this air conditioner and buy
something else (aside from being short on cash): when the air
conditioner is turned on, it is quiet and smooth and cools the output
air to 40° F immediately. To me that seems like all the internal
parts are doing their jobs well and something external (like a control
or heat exchanger) is causing the cycling. If it is low on
refrigerant would it cool to 40° so quickly? Same with dirty or bad
I could see the thermostat being the problem or the fins are still not
Is my logic correct? Is getting to 40° quickly really telling me that
certain parts are OK?
Incidently, the parts drawings for this unit are still on the web at:
It was 102° here today and forecast hotter tomorrow.