So rearranging your house is a bugger then. No thanks.
Oh deary deary me. Just look where you're going perhaps?
Do you know what I love doing in supermarkets when they put yellow signs up saying "danger wet floor"? Fall over them. It really confuses the health and softy morons.
So if more than one of you wants a cup, or you want a large mug of coffee, you have to wait 5 minutes? That is unacceptable.
Good enough to maintain a room temperature, but useless for heating one up in under a decade, or drying out something very wet.
Which doesn't protect the meter. Mind you, it would make it harder to steal electricity.
I had to look that up, and got this image:
Although ours don't look like that, those ones are cheap shit you get on campsites, ours do heat the water with electricity, in a box on the wall. Why would you think that was dangerous?
Now you see that's convenience not safety.
Seen in a lift:
"Please do not allow excessive obnoxious gaseous substances to be released from your anal orifice as the ventilation system is limited".
On Sunday, March 6, 2016 at 6:18:03 PM UTC-5, Mr Macaw wrote:
I've lived in a lot of houses and never had the need to rearrange where
a 240V appliance was. The only typical appliances like that which are on
receptacles are electric dryers and stoves/ovens/ranges. Never seen the
need to put the dryer or stove in a different spot. And if I did, the
dryer is almost always right next to the washer. The washer needs water
lines, a drain. The dryer needs a vent to the outside. Don't the ones
in the UK vent outside? I'm just not feeling the need to be able to
plug my dryer in anywere in the house. And a lot of people have gas
dryers too. Should we put gas outlets all through the house too, in
case someone wants to dry their clothes in the living room, while they
fire up their turkey fryer there too?
It doesn't take 5 mins to do a cup at 120V. I can do a liter in a little
more than that. If you really want it fast, we have instant hot water dispensers that you can install under the sink. They have a tank, ~ 1/2 gal, that is constantly hot. I stated previously that I agree having 240V
for that would be nice, it would cut down the time. But I think you're
way over doing how important it is.
Please. It doesn't take a decade to heat up a room. Also, as pointed
out previously, few people use them that way. We mostly have central
heat. Some people, not many thought, use them to supplement that in one
room, so they can keep the rest of the house set lower.
I agree with that part. I assumed what you meant was an on demand,
point-of-use type water heater. They are safe, as long as they are
It's both. Unless you think having an electric fryer, electric kettle,
etc on cords running God knows where, that can be tripped over, run to
a non-GFCI outlet, etc is safe. And "convenience" is a stretch. I'd
say it's "functionality" and safety.
According to the laws of physics, 10C water to boiling with a 1500W heating element is 4 minutes 12 seconds.
I'm thinking of say three people having a mug of coffee. That seems to take far too long even with a 3000W kettle. But then I get annoyed waiting for a microwave oven to cook my food.... I think the problem lies with computers getting faster and faster, but the rest of life doesn't.
Or just use the hot tap on the sink, from your gas boiler.
I'm very impatient. To see this for yourself, try driving in front of me.
It does. I'd say 3kW is a reasonable amount of power to heat a medium sized room.
Do you not have thermostatic radiator valves? Or more room stats with zoned valves?
Yes, our showers are, but they're more substantial, like this: http://www.mirashowers.co.uk/onlinecatalog/results.htm?sectionName=Electric%20showers
Not along the worktop they can't. And I look where I'm going anyway. When did the whole world become blind?
Odd, the whole house has GFCI here. Except mine, I can't be bothered with that shit, I have the original fusebox installed in 1979. It works. It never trips and annoys me. I'd rather say ouch than have to go and reset it.
What do you call an aerobics instructor who doesn't cause pain & agony?
On Sunday, March 6, 2016 at 10:18:16 AM UTC-5, Mr Macaw wrote:
All the common everyday appliances, eg microwave, electric kettle, lamps, vacuums, are 120V here and those are the only outlets distributed around the
house. 240V is used for electric dryers and ovens and it's about the only
place you'd find a 240V receptacle in a typical house. Some might have
it for some shop type gear, in their basement, garage etc too.
That is part of safety. Having sufficient receptacles within a given
distance means that people are less likely to run extension cords which
are a known hazard, for example.
~1.5KW is what they are. I would agree, 240V for that would be real
sweet. Still the 120V electric kettle can heat it faster than using
the range and more efficiently.
They too are limited to ~1500W. There are some that require a 20A
circuit, have a different plug, but those are the exception, not typical.
Same here. If nat gas is available, it's by far the most economical.
Electric is usually most expensive. We've found a tremendous amount of
new nat gas in the last decade or so.
Showers, washing machines, and dishwashers tend to heat their own water, so those and a tumble dryer (our weather is very damp) are about the only things that wil use much.
Here shower and washing machine, in vast majority of cases, don't
heat their own water. Electric dryers do and are on a 240V receptacle.
So your vacuum must have quite a beefy cord on it. Our vacuums typically use 5 amps, the the flex is quite flexible.
I wasn't aware America was over the top on safety. An extension cord is not a hazard, what do you think it's going to do? Catch fire for no reason?
I find the 3kW one too slow if it's full.
I think ours is all from the North Sea, which being in Scotland I'm right next to.
Do you still have those washing machines like I saw on a TV show once, where the detergent is dispensed automatically fro a big tank above it?
"I'm prescribing these pills for you," said the doctor to the overweight patient, who tipped the scales at about three hundred pounds.
"I don't want you to swallow them. Just spill them on the floor twice a day and pick them up, one at a time."
On Sunday, March 6, 2016 at 11:41:06 AM UTC-5, Mr Macaw wrote:
They don't seem beefy to me. I don't see why a small electric motor at 240V
would use 5 amps. A 1 hp motor uses about 7. Even my shop type
vac has a cord that I'd say is about the size of a pencil.
They are actually the source of a lot of fires. People put them under
carpets for example, where they get rubbed, frayed. Or they take a
minimal gauge cord and plug 6 things into it. Or they string together
several short ones, that aren't in the greatest shape, etc. Plus
they are a trip hazard. Plugging a hot plate or similar in on an
extension, you could trip on the extension and have a hot pot of
water land on you.
I can see that. The 120V one here I used to heat about a liter of
water to make coffee or tea. If I need more water than that, I do
it on the stove. I agree having a 240V electric kettle would be a
very handy thing. I never thought about it until you brought it up.
Maybe we can get something started here, put in 240V receptacles for
new kitchens. I'd like it.
I've never seen those. Trend now is to more front loaders. There the
detergent goes into a reservoir at the top of the machine, but I think
it's loaded for each use.
The typical vacuum here is rated at 2HP with some kind of phony rating
system but they usually do pull 10a or so. That makes it comparable to
what you are talking about. Some actually approach that maximum 1440w
that you can legally put on a 15a circuit.
Since these things are manufactured for an international market I bet
they perform about the same. They do make special cords that are
"vacuum rated" and I think that is basically that they use higher temp
insulation rating since it is still a pretty small cord. They do run
warm to the touch.
I have had a number of shop vacs and, side by side, there are plenty
of canister vacs used inside the home that are stronger and blow
harder than the 2 shop vacs I have (what I was testing). That is the
same thing though, since this is still just an air pump.
That shop vac is only special because of the bigger hopper and that
some can handle a bit of water.
They do not fuse plugs here, except for cheap asian christmas lights
with wire that is less than a mm (20 ga)
This is becoming a nanny state. You can' do anything without bumping
into laws about helmets, seat belts, guard rails etc. A damned ladder
has to have about 15 labels warning of bad things that happen if you
actually climb up it.
Absolutely true. I admit, if I was actually boiling that much water, I
would do it. We can buy a duplex outlet that has 240 and 120 in the
same device and the 240 side would not even have to be GFCI (RCD).
Since it is required to have two 120v circuits serving the counter top
it would be trivial to bring that from both sides of the center tap
with a neutral and split it right there for your two required 120v
I was impressed by the 240v kettles in New Zealand but once I got
home, I realized, we don't drink tea. Coffee makers work fine on 120
and most do not even approach the 1440w available. A drip maker can
just "drip" so fast without overloading the filter pan. Even the big
commercial units are still 120v and commercial kitchens always have
I guess the bottom line is this side of the pond is 120v and it is
going to stay that way. We seem to get by.
OK now explain why you drive on the wrong side of the road ;-)
On Tuesday, March 8, 2016 at 3:17:39 PM UTC-5, email@example.com wrote:
It's less about overloading the filter pan and more about "contact time".
If the water drips through too fast, the taste will be affected. Unfortunately,
with most home drip systems, you are at the mercy of the machine's drip rate.
SWMBO and I bought a $300 Breville unit for each other as a Christmas gift.
You can adjust the brew strength by adjusting the contact time. It makes a
really great cup of coffee, but it has too many features and too many parts
to clean to be convenient for everyday use. We ended up going back to our
basic drip machine, sacrificing some flavor for ease of use.
Stolen without permission from:
The amount of time that the water is in contact with the coffee grounds is
another important flavor factor.
In a drip system, the contact time should be approximately 5 minutes. If you
are making your coffee using a plunger pot, the contact time should be 2-4
minutes. Espresso has an especially brief brew time -- the coffee is in contact
with the water for only 20-30 seconds.
If you're not happy with the taste, it's possible that you're either over-
extracting (the brew time is too long) or under-extracting (the brew time is
too short). Experiment with the contact time until the taste suits you
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