"Drywall"

May 15, 2020 Last reply: 6 years ago 232 Replies

The strips were called "burlap" - not the fabric bags are made of - Generally 1 1/2 by 3/8" with rounded or "broken" corners - basically a finer version of "battens". Back in the 70s plywood and hardboard "panelling" was popular - it was scored to look like board or toung and groove - wall panelling and hiding the joints was a real skill - the plywood was so thin it buckled between the colour-matched nails, and the finishon the hardboard was so hard you couldn't sink the heads - and half of IT was so floppy it buckled too. The finish on the cheaper "plywood" was a resin impregnated photographic reproduction of woodgrain. - while the better stuff was a tissue-paper thin veneer. LOTS of that got covered with 1/4 or 3/8" drywall glued on with PL - and some just got skimmed with wallboard compound and painted or papered over. In a humid basement the walls looked something like lake superior on a calm moonlit night - - - - - -

They've started selling metric plywood up here - and it's pretty accurate in measurement - but inch plywood always was too. Now the problem is 15mm isn't exactly 5/8 and 17 mm isn't 3/4 - and sometimes they are substituted -- - - Some of it is also metric length and wirth instead of 48X96 inch (4x8)

Dimensional lumber is still sold as 1X and 2X 3, 4, or 6 etc "nominal" even in "metric" Canada - and you still buy 6 foot or 8 foot or whatever lengths. They also sell "stud length" that are precut to the right length to fit between upper and lower plates to make an 8 foot wall (92 5/8 inch long)

Or expensive. ANd it's pretty easy to patch - unlike "chipboard"

Generally gluing is for accoustics. Sometimes 2 layer drywall walls have the first layer screwed and the second layer glued. Same with ceilings. Means fewer scewholes to fill / pop. Often 12 or 16 foot 3/8 inch too so there are fewer or no "cut ends" to need jointing. 16 footers are FUN!!! (not) particularly on ceilings!!! On walls they run horrizontally so only one seam the length of the room in an 8 foot high room - 2 in taller rooms. You can tell a diy job when you find the corners all lined up - every corner is a perfect "X" that is virtually impossible to hide - - - -

Says the cowboy that has killed every car he has ever owned, including two that he killed forever by ignoring the over temp light until the engine seized.

Or they left a few out or didn't seal penetrations

In which case what's the point in the tape?

Nope, just pointing out that tape cannot stop those big heavy sheets moving. So there's no point in having the tape.

Wait till you want to remove it. Get a dust mask ready.

You must be some kind of treeist....r

That's not what its there for. That's what the plasterboard screws are for.

Yes there is. It has the tensile strength that the plaster doesn't.

Don't need one when you do it properly.

If you've done the sheeting properly, there is no need for the tape.

Without it crumbling? Are you a magician?

Wrong, as always. There will always be some movement in what the sheeting is attached to.

Yep.

Don't need to be.

If the boards don't move apart, the plaster wouldn't have cracked anyway. If they do, the tape won't help.

Why would I use the complicated messy s*it when a wood panel is easier to put up, easier to remove, and easier to attach things to.

OIY? That's Aussie for "yoohoo!"

If you're a pro you shouldn't need tape.

Nothing like what plasterboard does. And you don't have to use chipboard.

Easy, I've done that before, scrape the paint out of it with a Stanley knife.

Use non-rusting screws you cheapskate.

Contrarywise.

Unlike most people I look before crossing. I do love scaring pedestrians who seem to think they have right of way. I do not have to stop by law unless they are already on it.

Glass fibre is the devil's work, gets in your skin and lungs, should be banned like asbestos.

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