"Drywall"

May 15, 2020 Last reply: 6 years ago 232 Replies

Huh? I have no idea what that's intended to say, sorry.

Not when its got tiles stuck to it.

Not when its got tiles stuck to it.

I couldn't care less when that's the easiest way and the plasterboard is much cheaper than the tiles.

But then I'm not a desperate pov bludging on benefits.

Corse you don't shave you legs, eh ?

If skim-coating or venetian plastering you install it outside in?

And "paperless" with fiberglass skins

But what people refer to as "duct tape" - being the fabric re-enforced tape is NOT the "duct tape" generally used for HVAC and is truly "duck tape" -like "coton duck" - as in ther fabric - and also brand name. HVAC DUCT tape is generally an adhesive metal foil tape - generally aluminum. (at least that's all I have ever used on HVAC and venting (Drier vents etc) ducts. Duck tape didintegrates pretty quickly on heating ducts. Back in my rally days we called it "60 MPH tape" and used it to fasten loose parts and protect headlights from shattering

-- And sometimes to make the competition number on the door - - -

If the plaster board is properly attached to the framing nothing moves and the compund (not plaster) that covers the tape also permeates the tape and when it dries the joint is stronger than the board if it's done right. For a strong joint you use setting compound to seat the tape and the lightweight "putty" type (drying ) compound for finishing because sanding setting compund (Durabond) is like sanding cioncrete

How does the tape stop the plaster cracking?

That's the job of the drywall screws and the studs

It was written in plain English.

That's not PLASTERED, that's drywalled or in our case gyprocked.

Plastered means applying plaster to the wall using a trowel and a pile of wet plaster. Similar to rendering a wall but using plaster instead of render. The poms still do quite a bit of that plastering with infernal walls, particularly in older houses.

Not with traditional plastering. The whole wall is quite wet for quite a while.

Indeed, I prefer a decent job rather than a quick and cheap one. Anyone doing a job for someone else is going to cut corners. Builders are like mechanics, cowboys the lot of them.

Never used galvanized here - drywall nails were "blued" steel. Virtually everything the last 20 or more years has been screwed - black oxide coated drywall screws, generally

Gypsum lath is not bevelled. Wallboard is - but not on the "short" or "open" or "cut" end. The back side is often perforated - and is an "open" finish that would be terrible to paint - but holds finishes like venetianplaster better than the smooth side - also holds lime plaster "skim coat" finish - where taping is generally not used - basically using it as "gypsum lath" for a plaster wall look.

He's actually a sassenach who has always infested scotland.

Getting good "mudslingers" and "tapers" is hard enough. All the old guys from the old country (Generally old Germans - particularly Schwaubs around here -) have retired or died and the young fellows are not as picky. Most of the good ones around here now are Serbs or Portugese and in their mid 40s or older.

Not with the best of it, the timber panelling seen in very high value propertys. Very expensive tho.

"Drywall tape" is only tape in that it is a narrow strip. The real stuff has NO adhesive. There is fiberglass tape that has a bit of sticky to it to hold it to the wall untill you get the mud on - for DIYers. The real stuff gets trowelled into a thin coat of "mud" and then gets "bedded" in with a covering coat. A real good job gets bedded in "setting compound" which is trowelled slighly shy of the surface - almost filling the recess of the edge and is "sponged" so there is no compound on the surface - it is then "skimmed" with the lightweight filler. Setting compound is hard in 30, 45, or 90 minutes depending on the variety (durabond 30, 40, 45, 90 etc) and can be skim coated quickly. Using lightweight compound for everything requires anywhere from 8 to 36 hours to harfen depending on thickness, temperature, and humidity so the job is a 2 day job, minimum. With setting compound a good jointer can have a wall paint ready in about

10 hours. I've seen boarders install the drywall in the afternoon, tapers and mudders work the night shift, and the painters come in at noon and do the finish painting before supper time. A really GOOD mudder barely has to sand the joints - he just gives the joint a light rub with a damp sponge after trowelling and it's good to go if the wall is being sprayed - the spray texture blends everything in. A brush and roller job requires a bit more work but commercial and institutional, as well as a LOT of residential is all done with airless sprayers that leave a consistent fine texture.

Not a heck of a lot that isn't -- -

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