I think you should butt up the top one first up against the ceiling to
get a tight joint, then do the bottom one. You can leave space at the
bottom since you will put molding anyway and no one will see the space.
Over the 28 or so years I've been doing it, maybe 4 or 5 times. But, I
learned to also have a couple of 1 foot long by 4 foot wide pieces
that I "dry fit" first to make sure all is going to work. It's not
rocket science. You just do a little pre-planning. A level and a
drywall T-square and a few little "jigs" make things go a lot faster.
Jesh, just put the top sheet on FIRST..God,shim this , jig that , dry fit
this..In the time you spend jigging and shimming I could hang an entire
room..It's only drywall , not finish carpentry....It's not rocket science
but you're trying to make it that way...In the 20 years I've been doing
drywall I've NEVER seen a pro do what you say ...Even angled walls aren't
that damn complicated...I can see why it's taken you 28 years to sheetrock
On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 21:48:17 -0600, "Steve Barker DLT"
Generally, that's practice. Especially if you're working with a lift
or a partner.
But hanging an eight foot piece alone, many pros place the bottom
piece first and use it to rest the top piece into place. If there is
a slight gap, it can always be flat taped.
Horizontal would be best. Vertical a close second. One each way a
Horizontal seams are easier to finish and less likely to telegraph.
Drywall adds structural stability to the wall. Horizontally hung sheets
give twice the shear resistance as vertically hung sheets. (Although it
wouldn't be that big a factor on a 8' long wall.)
I would beg to differ on your statement "Horizontally hung sheets
give twice the shear resistance as vertically hung sheets."
its just not true, an urban (or suburban) myth. Twice?
Hung horizontally (& with the mid height seam unblocked) it would be
an unblocked diaphragm. Hung vertically, with the seam falling on a
stud, you'd have better continuity. No un-nailed edges, no unblocked
The truth be told, drywall sucks as shear resisting material and the
whole discussion about drywall strength is rather silly.
I don't remember where, but that's what I remember reading many years ago.
Here's one cite with similar claims:
"EFFECT OF INTERIOR FINISH ON RACKING RESISTANCE
Although not commonly considered as a structural component, interior
finish does in fact contribute substantially to the racking resistance
of buildings. According to Table 1, gypsum lath and plaster increased
the ultimate shear load of braced lumber-sheathed walls by five times,
while gypsum wallboard doubled it even though the latter was attached
only to the studs.
Wallboard orientation was also significant. When wall lengths were
increased to three times the wall height, horizontally applied gypsum
wallboard gave almost twice the shear resistance as the vertically
applied board, presumably due to the greater average distance of the
nails from the cut edges of the board."
Agreed, which is why I said it wouldn't be that big a factor on an 8' wall.
"The following conclusions can be drawn from these tests:
2. Shear values for parallel application exceed those for perpendicular
This test doesn't show anything approaching 2x. I'm neither an architect
nor engineer so the numbers don't mean all that much to me. Would it be
fair to say that horizontal beats vertical, but 2*insignificant is still
If you know of a good article or study explaining this further I'd
appreciate a link.
Where are you guys getting this "information" that advances the notion
that one hanging configuration is MUCH stronger than the other?
I have actually tested 100's of shear walls (gyp, plywood, OSB,
stucco; wood framed, light gage steel framed) and the data just does
not support a huge strength increase for drywall Horz vs Vert.
btw drywall can deliver only about 10 to 20% of the shear capacity of
a comparable plywood shear wall, so to even be discussing drywall
"shear wall" is a bit silly. Yes, there are LOTS of drywall walls in
the typical house compared to the amount of plywood or OSB. In parts
of the country where one really needs shear capacity (high wind or
Shear wall performance is driven by many competing & interrelated
factors; sheathing material, blocked vs unblocked, fastener schedule,
fastener size sheathing .......sheathing orientation is, at best, a
second order effect.
8x8 wall assumes there is a stud exactly at the 4ft center. If not, you are
probably going to have two joints if you hand vertical, or 16 feet of joint
compared with only 8 ft of joint if you hang horizontal.
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