I've got an area of my kitchen where I'll be removing plaster walls in order
to insulate, add wires, ductwork, etc. On one side, the area to be removed
will be contiguous with some that will remain intact. In another, it'll be
removed to a corner. I don't know yet how thick the existing plaster & lath
are, but I suspect it won't match any standard drywall products. If the
plaster's thicker than the thickest drywall available, what's a good way to
make this work? Shims on the beam edges before installing the drywall?
don't be afraid of plaster.
1.screw some wire lath into the hole
2. apply a base & brown coats of perlited gypsum plaster
3. finish with diamond coat finish plaster.
Its really faster and easier that going the drywall and multi layers of mud
One thing to remember don't use to much water when mixing the plaster. It
should be nowhere as loose as drywall mud, Wet only enough to make it
plastic. Pack the base coat well and do a damp finish to polish the diamond
coat when it begins to set.
You'll find that plaster is much more durable than drywall.
Jeff, I'm taking down an amount of plaster wall equivalent of about 6 sheets
of drywall. No way I'm going to plaster it again. All the lath is coming off
so I can install fiberglass insulation batts. I've done plenty of plastering
in the past, but in this case, it would be nuts.
How about blueboard (plasterboard) and a veneer coat of plaster? You
can fur out as needed to get the face of the blueboard within 1/8" of
the existing plaster, and then the veneer coat will even it up.
Why in the world would he do that? Plaster is usually about 3/4"
thick. Usual drywall for that app would be 1/2". What's the big
deal of furring 1/4" on the studs or if you need 3/8", you already
have that with the lath you removed. I would get a really clean
joint from the old to the new and tape it with several thicknesses
of the nylon mash made for that. Before they came out with that
type tape, I have used a nylon hose (sock).
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