Hi, a significant crack has developed in the drywall between the living room and kitchen. I think the weight of the pot rack has, over time, contributed to the crack, but I'm not taking it down..
I've repaired smaller cracks with spackle, sanding and a coat of paint, but since this is larger, and the pot rack will still be hanging there, I want to make a more robust fix, if possible.
IS there a better way to fix the crack ? Thanks
Here's a picture:
A lot depends on what is above the layer of spackle. Is it dry wall, plaste
r and lath, ect. It appears to be an older house, is this the case? If so i
t may be lath and plaster. To correct the issue I would start by making sur
e the pot hanger is properly anchored into a beam, and not just the lath. A
fter that the best way would be to remove about 4 inches from around the cr
ack(2-3 in. on each side) then insure the lath above it is in good shape an
d re plaster.
Hope this helps!
Little chance its water damage, however, it is possible that there was some
structural work done in this area before I owned the house. We think there
had once been a wall between the living room and the kitchen that wall was
removed, and if so it would have stood right about there.
I have a hunch that's the source of the problem -- that there used to be a
wall there that has since been removed.
Also, I suspect that it isn't drywall -- but instead maybe wood lath
underneath with plaster over the wood lath.
Regardless, I think you would need to start by removing some of what is
there along the ceiling crack first -- to get down to whatever is
underneath. If you find that it is plaster over some type of lath (wood or
wire), you'll have to do the repair from that point forward. That may
require securing the wood lath, or removing a whole section and replacing
Maybe you could take some off and take another photo or two and post the
I once lived in a house that was added on to. The addition was built on
concrete blocks that aooarently was not put below the frost line. Every
year the two corners of the room cracked, and a spot under a window
mid-wall. After patching it at least 5 times, I bought some quarter
round molding for all 4 corners, and some flat trim which was about 1/4"
thick and 1 1/4" wide. I nailed them over the cracks and painted them to
match the walls. Those cracks could shift all they want, becuse they
were covered by that trim. Some people would not accept this "Fix" but I
just got tired of patching it, and knowing it would crack again.....
I guess I was not clear. The cracks were not in the blocks. The walls
were drywall over studs. I mentioned the blocks meaning the foundation
was not adaquate and that part of the building shifted. It was an old
farmhouse, and this is common on old buildings, which were sometimes
built on nothing but a "footing" of some rocks and mortar built right on
the soil surface.
I think thats why they used wallpaper so much in the "old days". It
covered the cracks in the plaster!
hi.. im the OP
Yes the sloping ceiling goes up to a cathedral ceiling in the living room.
I'll take a look for a local professional. But in the meantime, for anyone interested i'll post more picture, what do you want to see?
I think that it may be helpful if you could provide a wider angle photo of
what is there now (as is) so people could get a sense of more of the flat
ceiling and more of the cathedral ceiling -- to see how or where any of the
load bearing walls are or were (before the wall removal).
If there is an accessible attic above the flat ceiling, maybe you could look
in the attic and verify in which direction the ceiling joists (for the flat
ceiling) run. In other words, do those ceiling joists above the flat
ceiling run parallel to the back wall (where the window with blue curtains
is); or perpendicular to the back wall (where the window with blue curtains
And, maybe, if possible, remove some of the plaster where the 3-4 foot major
crack in the ceiling is located. Then take a photo or two of that. The main
thing would be to try to see if there is plaster and wood lath under the
ceiling crack; and maybe be able to see if there is some type of structural
double header there or something else (such as a single ceiling joist
running perpendicular to the back wall.
On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 14:38:47 -0800 (PST), email@example.com wrote:
Can't get to the pictures right now - which way does the cathesral
cieling run? does it run up from the wall where the cracks are, or
from the kitchen? If it runs up from the kitchen, what supports the
ends of the rafters? If it runs up from the wall where the cracks are,
what holds up the end of the flat kitchen cieling???
Makes me even MORE suspicious someone removed a bearing wall. If I
were a betting man, it would be a pretty sure bet.
Your original question was about how to repair the crack. And, for the
ceiling crack, there is no doubt that the first step in the process will
have to be to break out and remove what is there now -- especially since
part of that crack is hanging down below the plane of the ceiling. Even if
you were to "look for a local professional", the first thing that he/she
would need to do is take down some of that material to see what is
underneath. And, frankly, if it were me, I wouldn't bother trying to find a
"professional" just yet -- at least until after I had a chance to see what
is underneath the crack (of course, by "underneath", I really mean "above"
So, I think a good first step -- since you will need to do it anyway --
would be to break out and remove some of the plaster or whatever it is where
that 2-foot long ceiling crack is located, and take a couple of photos of
It is true that there may be a more serious underlying structural issue, but
it also may turn out to not be as serious as all of that.
So, my vote is to start by breaking out and removing some of the plaster or
whatever it is where that 2-foot long ceiling crack is located, and take a
couple of photos of that and post them here.
Okay here are additional pictures.
In the outside pic you can see a patch in the siding where it looks like they moved the sliding glass doors about 2 feet. This is one of the reasons we think a wall was removed as part of a kitchen renovation (this had to be at least 10 plus yrs ago.)
I agree about excavating the area, I'll start opening it up next weekend and I'll post pics of the inside. Thanks to everyone for the help.
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