Table Saw purchase question

[Swingman]

Except that wasn't me ...

[krw]

??? I was answering the nothing's post.

[none]

Just have to keep it going don't you? I replied to Swingman half jokingly and you figured you had to jump in with another hit.

You truly are an emotionally driven, senile old fool aren't you?

[Larry Blanchard]

$$JOB $$EOJ

[krw]

You just prove what a black pot you are. Keep it up.

You're too stupid to read so no one will expect you to think.

[Markem]

Y'all done till next time?

[woodchucker]

EOF end of file

EOD end of day job EOM end of month job EOY end of year job EOQ end of quarter job...

plenty of them..

nothing is like that anymore.

[Max]

One more question; where are SawStops manufactured and if in the US are any parts made "off shore"? I ask primarily because of the statement on their website:

"100% U.S. Owned, Operated and Engineered"

(nothing about where they're built)

[woodchucker]

offshore. I believe Taiwan, not certain. Nothing is made here anymore that I am aware of.

[Leon]

Taiwan If it were built in the USA it really really would be expensive.

[Max]

I can live with that. ;-)

[Leon]

To tell you the truth this saw strongly resembles the Craftsman TS that I bought in 1983 and used for 16 years and had made a few modifications for improved accuracy. That made it tolerable for precision work.

Unless your current saw is flat worn out, you might not be upgrading at all.

I would be very concerned with the tilt wheel and how it is attached to the saw. The old Craftsman saws tilt wheel and shaft attached to the body/trunnion and on the handle end to the side of the saw. The side of the saw was simply sheet metal and if the side of the saw flexed it caused the tilt shaft and trunnion to change bevel settings. Hense the lock lever to help prevent movement after an adjustment on the Craftsman. Looking at the parts illustration it appears that part# 81 is a stiffener to help minimize the tendency. That may or may not be adequate for your purpose. Parts 58 and 59 are the locking bolt and lever to further minimize movement.

The rip fence is basically the same style as the old Craftsman and probably will be difficult to keep properly adjusted. It locks at the back end and it is very common for the locking action to pull the fence out of parallel with the blade when engaged. If it were me I would look for a Beisemeyer style fence, these are rock solid and almost never need adjustment after initial set up. They only lock down on the front bar.

Just considering Grizzly I would recommend upgrading to at least this saw if for no other reason to get the better style rip fence. There are several other reasons to list but the fence is probably never going to need to be replaced if precision is what you are looking to achieve.

[Leon]

And now I realized that this was not posted on March 4th a couple of days ago.. ;~(

[Dr. Deb]

I know you have gotten a ton of replies, but I just got a 36" Steel City Ar tisan saw and love it. The built in roll around comes in handy, don't have to worry about rust, rock solid, only had to make ONE adjustment coming ou t of the box (one wing adjuster was a tad high), good dust collection. I s imply could not be happier and the latest price was around $900 from Tool W erks.

Deb

[Leon]

I laughed at my self foe responding to this post, it is over a year old.

[Swingman]

Don't feel bad, we laughed at you too.