On 28 Jun 2004 00:17:36 -0700, email@example.com (c a) wrote:
Saw should have it's own nut wrench. if not crescent wrench will do.
Remember it loosens clockwise.
You may need to use a screwdriver in the saw teeth to hold the blade if the saw
doesn't have a blade lock.
Saw should have it's own nut wrench. if not crescent wrench will do.
A box-end wrench or a socket would be a better choice, as they grip the bolt
tighter than a crescent wrench will, and thus have less risk of slipping and
banging your knuckles, or rounding off the bolt head.
Ummmm... no, it doesn't, not if the blade is on the right, anyway.
That's really a pretty bad idea. A block of scrap wood is far better.
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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That's what happens when you are half asleep and you're lefthanded.<g>
I also recommended the screwdriver because if there are times, especially if you
bought an old second hand job, that wood just won't hold and you can hurt
I once had to drill a hole in a rusty plywood blade to get it off, even after 3
days of applying assorted rust lifters like WD40.
Or you have a left-blade saw, like my Skil HD77. Good thing thing they put
little arrows on the nut to inform the folks who aren't used to it. Not quite
an automatic reflex if you're going from one saw to another.
Gaaawd - I love the smell of a good Craftsman string in the morning!!!
Oh hell - Ill Jump In. I just replaced the brushes in a 35 year old
Craftsman circular saw. I believe this was the first set. On the shelf
next to it is a 32 year old Craftsman Scroll Saw and similar vintage belt
sander. All good tools that seem to last forever, if you install enough
replacement cords and plugs. I have a set of Craftsman hand tools that were
given to me by in-laws nearly 38 years ago and a 1956 vintage Craftsman 4"
Jointer that is built like a fire plug and works fine. I used to go to
Sears anytime I needed a tool. That was 25-35 years ago.
Would I buy a Craftsman tool today - Probably not. Sometime during the past
25 years or so, they turned their backs on their loyal following.
Yes their hand tools are still good, but why pay 2 to 3 times the price of a
Master Mechanic socket set with exactly the same warranty - lifetime!
About 20 to 25 years ago they started selling gaseous features like 1 HP
motors with 2HP starting power - excuse me, but I cut after the saw blade
comes up to speed. Also digital readouts for table saws that didn't even
work on the store floor. In my opinion this kind of marketing was a direct
insult to intelligent customers like us.
Has anyone looked at their new line of lathes or their so-called cabinet
saw? They seem to cost as much as the competition. Are serious woodworkers
buying these stylized plastic laden tools?
I think Sears positioned themselve so serve the consumer who wanted a tool
NOW, didn't have cash available but did have a Sears charge account. That
Worked for a while.
It is particularly telling that Sears is now selling Jet machinery. Wonder
On some blades there actually are 2 small holes - specifically for placing a
screwdriver shaft through. Does not hurt the teeth and a lot easier than
using a block of wood. But if you don't have the small ~1/4" holes near the
outer edge of the blade - then use the block of wood.
Whatever direction the blade turns when running, that's the direction you
turn the nut to loosen it. You'll probably need to lock the blade to loosen
the nut. A piece of wood in a gullet or something strong enough to hold the
blade in place will be needed. Try not to damage the teeth on the blade.
firstname.lastname@example.org (c a) wrote in message
Roto-zip with metal-cutting burr
Straightedge and marker
Ball-peen hammer, Vise-grip pliers
Unplug the circular saw. Safety first, pumpkin.
Use the straightedge and marker to mark a straight line across the
blade that goes through the center (diameter line) Ensure that the
line begins and ends between teeth of the blade. It is recommended
that you use a Starrett straightedge for this procedure. Any
innacuracies caused by using such crude devices as a plain old ruler
are at your own risk.
Use the roto-zip to _carefully_ cut through the blade along this line.
The arbor nut may make cutting all the way to the center impossible.
If this is the case, remove the arbor nut to access the center. "Left
With the blade guard held in the open position, carefully pull one
half of the blade out of the saw. Be careful as the teeth of the blade
are sharp and may poke you. For added safety, wear welding gloves
during this operation.
Rotate the second half of the blade around and remove it in the same
manner as the first half. If the blade gets stuck while rotating, plug
the saw back in and quickly pull and release the trigger to dislodge.
If this is necessary, you should wear a face shield and kevlar vest.
These can be purchased at Harbor Freight for $6.98.
Using the metal-cutting tool of your choice, cut the new blade in
half, being sure to cut in between the teeth of the blade rather than
directly on a tooth. Alternatively, you can set half the blade in a
vice and bend the other half back and forth until it breaks loose.
Insert the new blade in the saw in the opposite manner as described
when removing the blade. If you plugged the saw in to remove the
blade, you may wish to unplug the saw at this time. Be sure to wear
welding gloves as the teeth of the blade are sharp.
Mix up the two tubes of J-B weld as described on the package. If you
are still wearing welding gloves, remove them and put on cute leather
driving gloves. You know, the kind with knuckle holes.
Use the J-B weld to glue the two halfs of the blade together. If you
are having trouble spreading the epoxy, use an exposed knuckle to work
the epoxy into the joint.
When drying is complete use the ball-peen hammer and/or vise grip
pliers to straighten the blade. Be careful not to damage the blade
guard during this operation. It will be needed later.
If you have previously removed the arbor nut, replace it at this time.
"Right to tight"
Before you use the power tool, lets take a moment to talk about shop
safety. Be sure to read, follow, and understand the instructions that
came with your tool. And remember, the is no more important rule that
to wear these, safety glasses.
Make a test cut in the heel of your shoe. Ensure that the depth of the
saw cut will not penetrate your sole. If you lose your sole, consult
you priest, minister, emam, and/or rabbi.
What the heck for?? The all work, they all cut. Why throw away a perfectly
good tool and spend good money on another because of some anal mentality
towards CRAFTSMAN products.
Stupid advice like that sucks, IMHO.
NOW, ask me how I REALLY feel.
Glad you're happy with your Craftsman woodworking tools. Over the years,
I've had a number of Crapsman tools (tablesaw, routers, jointer, drills,
etc.) and everyone of them either burned out or otherwise self destructed in
some fashion. Other than some non-powered hand tools (screwdrivers,
wrenches) I kept only the jointer (dead motor) around to use as a weight
when doing large glueups. With that kind of track record, do you really
think anyone can recommend them?
So the advice doesn't suck at all....
I have a Craftsman circular saw and as soon as it breaks I will promise to buy
something you folks approve of but I can't seem to break it. Last week I burned
up 3 masonry blades trying but no joy, it keeps on going. :-)
On 29 Jun 2004 00:34:30 GMT, email@example.com (Greg) wrote:
Me too. I keep wanting to get a GOOD circular saw, but my innate stinginess won't let
me spend the money as long as my Craftsman 7
1/4 keeps spinning the blade. Only thing I've had to fix on it was to replace the
cord when I ran the blade through it several years
ago. You'd think after almost 40 years it would be about worn out, but nooo...
Don'tlook like I'm ever gonna be able to buy a good
Wichita, KS USA
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