Recently I bought a new Black and Decker circular saw, a low-end model.
From the start, the blade seemed to bind severely and the wood smoked as if
it were going to burst into flames. The saw won't even cut a 1 x 3 board
without this happening, and it won't cut heavy boards at all.
I've examined my installation of the blade closely, even installed another
blade, but the binding and smoking continues.
Is this likely a defective product, or am I doing something wrong in
That was going to be my question as well. I loaned my $200 Porter Cable saw
to a co-worker. He called me stating that the saw was "smoking" the wood.
I asked him (without trying to sound too smug) if the blade was installed
correctly. He scoffed and quickly responded *YES*. The following Monday,
he admitted the blade was on backwards. The blade (if holding the saw by
the handle closest to you) should have the teeth curved upward to the bottom
of the sole plate. This way the teeth cut up from the bottom of the wood.
And don't feel badly if this was the case - I've been a custom furniture
builder for over 20 years and I *still* double check the rotation. IIRC - B
& D has a directional arrow on the blade guard. This will show you the
Of course it's defective. It's a Black & Decker.
IF the blade is on with teeth in the proper direction,
It Could Be-->
*a bad arbor
* a bent moter shaft
* a loose blade
*a bent / warped blade
* a Black & Decker tool
In my opinion, and I use tools a lot. BLack & Decker makes the best of
the cheaper tools. Skil tools are complete garbage, and I wont even
consider a no-name (import). I have always had pretty good luck with
B&D. On the other hand, Skil makes the worst power tools I have ever
used. In fact I bought a no-name electric drill for under $20, and
found it was far superior to the $50 Skil drill I bought.
I had a similar problem (though with a B&D 7.2v circular saw). I replaced
the crap blade that came with it, with a carbide blade; it now works like a
charm. Can't say I was happy with the price of the blade though.
If your blade isn't in backwards, you might want to try a carbide blade.
Even if the saw turns out to be defective, you will appreciate the better
My mitre saw was doing much the same. It was lugging and not cutting. I
thought the motor was burning out and, since I was doing a big job, I went
and bought a new one. I like taking broken things apart so I opened the
"defective" saw. The only problem was a small chip of wood which had jammed
between the safety guard and the blade. When I popped it out, the saw worked
perfectly. So my daughter got a working 8 inch mitre saw and I got a new
10 inch one.
Out of curiousity...were you cutting freehand or against a guide. If
against a guide, only a bit of misalignment of the sole plate to the blade
can cause binding. Also, if the wood you're cutting is reaction wood, the
gap behind the blade can close as you cut, effectively clamping a bit on the
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